Maddog13407

yup, late 80's early 90' will fit. you will have to change the front frame mounts to put a newer cab on as the newer cabs have the trunion mount and the older ones have the flat buscuit mount like a B model. also may have to modify the throttle linkage as the early R models had it bolted to the cab and the newer ones are usually mounted to the back of the engine.

whats up with the A and D Service Lj with B model fenders??? im kinda partial to the A Duie Pyle R model myself. short little guy

yup, what they said haha. worst case scenerio is the plungers are stuck in the pump but thats an easy fix. take side cover off pump or even remove the pump but DONT turn the engine over with it removed. soak it in some kerosene in a tote for a week or so, then usually i use a flat screwdriver and hammer, stick it in the springs and gently tap down. they should free up. keep turnin the pump over til you see all the springs and plungers movin up and down freely. reinstall pump and prime it, it should run.

need some windshield sealant on the pinchweld. Mack never used any originally but with the new shiny paint and clear coat it will leak, trust me!. glue the gasket on and work the center strip in. after that i have used dish soap or even pumice hand cleaner or foamy glass cleane as lube. get yourself a fiberstick( the white ones) from a glass shop. have used a paint stick but the fiberstick is easier. lube it up and slide the glass in fron the side,(twards the center bar) keep pressure on it twards the front and work the gasket around top and bottom with fiberstick, take a break if you have to but it will slide right in. the lockin strip is the bitch part. get yourself the tool to do it and lube that up really well. never put any sealant on glass but make sure you seal gasket to the pinchweld and the gasket to the metal center bar. maybe even alittle more in the center cause it will leak and fill the ashtray full of water, trust me. haha

i think they came out with the R models. i never seen any B model with that style key.

yup, usually the contacts on the switch get corroded and green and the lights dont work. take switch out and u can clean it and reinstall. could also be your dimmer switch. seen the dimmer switch do some weird stuff to the headlights. never seen the breakers ever being a problem. the old glass fuses on the early B models are a different story.

dont think thats the right mirror bracket on the Vinsters U model. that would be rippin the mirror off an oncoming truck. most U and DM's i have seen just had angle iron with the mirror loop kinda bolted to it on the driverside

dont be too hard on young Vinny. he will run away again haha. have driven a few Dm's myself, pretty hard to get use to gettin out and missin the' F'ing step and steppin about 4 feet down out of the cab! or having to get out and walk around the truck 10 times to adjust the passenger mirror bracket cause its 15 foot from the driver seat and you cant just roll the pass window down and reach across and move it or tryin to find a gear with the bent shifter on a 2 stick 6 speed and always getting the wrong gear cause of the bent stick!. other than that just like an other Mack but they are a rough riding bastard haha

worth 2500 all day long in my eyes. an A model without major rot is like gold. all the sheetmetal is there and is in really good shape. looks like a nice complete truck minus the 5th wheel someone took off and that hard to find Monoshift emblem in the shiftin know. id save it. always liked the A models. if it was near Ny might be in my collection except i have too many already. that is an overhead valve gas engine and was a really good motor back in the day unlike the smaller flatheads which were junk.

yup, Briggs and Stratton style, had a pair with the tumblers that i put in my B model

yup pretty good right out of the box. nice cold glass of milk and i can cleanout a whole row of double stuff from the box. pretty slick with the new pull and reseal tab to haha.

flip the darn fifth wheel down! god its been annoying me for 7000 pictures you took Vinny lol

50 K? as in 50 grand? is it brand new???

gee sounds like an export scumbag to me. doesnt set well at all. maybe im wrong

it needs a cab bad. been tryin to buy it for years, just no one is ever around. been tryin to add it to my collection.

radiator should be rubber mounted. there is a 3/16 by aboulf 1 inch piece of rubber that goes between the radiator and the horse collar . the bolts can be found at mcmaster car i think. i have cut the threads off the old ones that were stripped and center punched the 7/8 hex head and drilled a 5/16 hole thru them and used the head as a spacer with a regular 5/16 bolt

depends if you have the old or new style Radiator shell. the old ones you could bolt the fenders and shell and headlite panels all together as one. the newer ones i usually put the inner and outer fenders together and the inner headlight panel then hang the fender. you can put the shutters on after you put fenders and headlight panels on but but bottom bolt in the shutters is a sob after the fact. can be done but its a bitch. i usually cut the head off a fine thread 3/8 bolt and thread it into a fender hole in the cab to hang the fender on. this makes it easier to hold in place while you get underneith and thread the real bolts in.

i knew an old timer would know. haha j.k sorry Mike

dunno. seen the dry type have the little taddle tale (change filter. rest ) thing screwed in there. id just take it out and put a plug in it and should be fine. only problem with those air cleaners is if they are left outside forever, they tend to rot around the top ring(where the water rests) and eventually leaks inside and rots the screen and fills the oil bown full of water.

i kinda like the white 71 R model in Ks. just needs a non nigerian bumper on it and its ready to drive.

exactly! everytime i use Cragslist, i have to search individual states....

you make me jealous vinny. been wanting that old R model for years. its all there, just needs a cab actually 711 and 10 speed duplex with short wheelbase. on a side thread, i saw a DMM today in Amsterdam Ny that had the H I H O in the side of the dumpbox. didnt get apic but i will. wasnt there a discussion here a while back about them?

the later models 64-66 had the cable in the dash that crudely went thru a unused bolt hole in the air cleaner mounting to the winter/summer switch. the top of the air cleaner usually had a plug in it and some even had a little flip top screwed in where you squirted the old girl with ether in bad weather. you could do this or just spray it in the screen on the bottom. i dont really get what you mean by the hole in the top that lets water in? the oil bath will work fine for most applications, sometimes when you upgrade to a 237 or bigger engine the engine will actually suck the oil right out of the pan on an oil bath air cleaner thats why a lot of guys upgrade to the dry type. the dry type Watts sells is a Donaldson to along with the original oil bath Mack used. the dry type is available direct thru Donaldson also as it was used on various applications, i have even seen them on log skidders.

should be the same an any 6 cylinder diesel Mack. they only made two or three of them back then and the only differences are the length of the shaft and sometimes the clockin where it bolts to the oil cooler. think an 237 water pump should fit most thermodyne's. may have to use your old spacer blocks for the oil cooler tho.

green single axle is definately a RS600L but its still sweet. always liked the western bumpers to and the white steering wheels