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Maddog13407

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Everything posted by Maddog13407

  1. 237 might not be an issue with a good tranny but I wouldn't lug it too low on an older one with worn in bearings. you can bolt it up to a 237 285 300 or 350 and, drive it with a brain. I think the killer is putting your foot into it or letting her lug on a worn trans. ask Mat Pfahl how number 1,2,3 or 4 quadboxes held up behind his 350 before he put a 12 speed in it....
  2. I put a power steering system om my B when I first put it together with the pump off the back of the ac compressor. the scrap truck I took it off had atf in it and the belts were loose. when I put it on mine and put atf in it it was all over the road like an olf Ford with a twin I beam front end. ended up takin the Shepard box out and putting the regular arm strong back in. probably should have flushed the system and tries some 15 40. doesn't really steer that bad with the 522 front axle but I have jockeyed a few trailers around with it that will make you curse.
  3. yup,most b models I have seen with ps ran 15 40
  4. agree with the tire issue, been having issues at work with oil delivery trucks we service. company has a national account, only wants firestones or bridgestones. been having all kinda of out of round problems with those junks.
  5. if you have the holes, maybe make some sort of bracket to space the flap out from the bottom flange of the fender
  6. Dellwood use to have a shop off the NYS thruway exit 30 Herkimer. they had the worst shape B models that ever exhisted. they use to never shut them off. driver would jump out and fuel up and another jump in and head back to NYC.
  7. I bought the old school Mack ribbed flaps that match the floor Mats from Barry. I then took a 2 by 12 and held it against the bottom of the fender and used a sharpie to trace the outline, cut the half circle out with a jig saw, went and got some 1'' aluminum angle iron and cut it about every inch and formed it around the wood then drilled 1/4 holes in it in every slot and bolted it to the bottom flange of the fender and bolted the flap on. this got away from drillin a hole thru the actual fender.
  8. LF? just thinkin I have never seen all three chrome strips on anything but an LF
  9. rt 29, Dolgeville. been sittin there forever. Comstock logging
  10. is it a 12 or 6 point? I know mine had 6 point bolts in it, when I put 12 volt starter on it I went to Mack and got the 12 point starter bolts for it. I rememver using a long extension. still a pita but was easier
  11. why use a battery at all? any diesel will pop start in 3rd high. rig up a can with fresh diesel, two lines, prime up the fuel system , try to pull start it ,if shes a good runner, invest in a starter and some new cables. if shes skipping, we have a cure for that to
  12. bump
  13. 60 61 were some hot years. we had a 1960 that was serial number 30331. what I would give to find that truck today. 673, 9 speed overgear, 22 inch rubber with a 517 front axle
  14. plus side is it had the pre 1961 cheapened up B model sheetmetal. the sheet metal from the early B models is a dream to work with over the cheapened up fenders doors and hoods from 1962 til end of production.
  15. walkin floor trailers coming from the city, real fun to get behind on I87 and I90 on a hot summer day when the maggots start hitting your windshield. even better when we have to go out and tow or change a tire on one of those drippy things. seems the only English they know is '' Me no got money''
  16. pretty common sight up here in upstate ny to see some of the Maggot Wagons coming up from Jersey with 5 different drivers in the sleepers none that can speak English and have them drive for miles and miles when tires, wheels or a whole hub with tires attaches comes off....
  17. pictures?
  18. so has anyone joined in on this besides Paul and I? have not heard much response. with the amount of members we have in this group, if everyone donated a dollar, it would make a difference
  19. should have just used a Pete cab, used the rest of the truck it looks like
  20. two line air cleaner, I bet shes sporting a 300+ under the hood
  21. I have sandblasted the frames, filled the pits with bondo and icing then primered and painted the frames with Trim black paint. looks good enough
  22. I'm still missing something here?? you put a cab and hood from an R, on a dm frame I take it?
  23. the elephant ears weren't heavier, they were just the older style, you could get them in 38, 44 and 55's. the 34's were usually internally mounted on the frame. the cone hubcaps were for ''full floating'' axles and the flat caps were for ''semi floating'' there the axle was formed to the hubcap. 34 and 38's were rubber mounted trunons. 44's you could get brass or rubber mounted. most 55's I have seen were brass. the 44's also usually had a flat web welded in the seam of the rear end housings to strengthen them.
  24. the spot welds weren't filled and they weren't from the front. they were spot welded around the inside. the dots you see are from rust pulling at the seams. overallan excellent door tho. skim coat of icing on those dots and some primer and good to go. when I usually do a B model door as dumb as it sounds, I usually pour a little oil or fluid film inside the door before I put the door panel on.
  25. looks like an ex New York Thru way plow
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