burnin oil

You definatly need to be careful. When I first got the L model I regreased the hubs. After pulling them and cleaning out 30lbs of old grease they got power washed. About 2 weeks later dad said there was some oil in the houses water filter. It is amazing how far that stuff can move under ground.

Years ago I had a 2.8 Chevy motor long block. GM was proud of their first all metric motor. The 2.8 was missing a block plug and I found a replacement out of an old 327 core I had.

I don't do alot of business with them but they do have alot of wierd stuff. I bought brass set screws to use on modding a Holley carb. They were 20% of the cheapest I could find on amazon which was way cheaper than the local home depot. They also have a good selection of off size drill bits in stock. Those crazy 64ths sizes that taps like to call for max thread engaugment.

Tidewater Mack still has 2 B models sitting on the side lot in the back. If you look you can see them from the interstate. My local tow truck driver tried to get one a couple years ago but they wern't for sale. They have not moved in years. From the interstate they look to be in really good shape. One is supposed to be missing some motor parts though.

The sales lit I got from the the Mack museum showed either a 5spd or a Duplex as an option in a LJT. Mine is a 5spd with a 3spd spicer aux.

I bought a SKF transmission rebuild kit for my Spicer 7041 auxilliary trans last year. When I opened it up I think it conained bearings from every manufacturer under the sun. The one I really got a kick out of was stamped Link-Belt. I have found that the best bet for finding bearing, seals, races etc is to run the part number through an interchange and then google the sucker. With a little hunting you can usually find it for peanuts compared to the fleet store. I had to buy a Timken bearing that noone seemed to have other than Napa. They wanted over $200 and found it online at a Timkin dealer for a little over $50! Another good place to look is hydraulic fitting stores. Alot of times they dabble in seals and bearing also. I picked up a large obsolete seal for $6 that would have cost over $40 with a long wait time. It can be frustrating but the same part is usually made by one manufacturer then stamped for 20 different companies. Another example here is my dexter trailer axle. I can order the seals from a boat supply store, original dexter part, for half the price of the national brand seal. Same seal and numbers stamped on it other than the red color.

Didn't say what kind of Ford but the older mechanical B and C series Cummins didn't have the heater grids. Also the timing may be off. Overly advanced does exactly what yo dessribe in cold weather.

If noone gets ya hooked up send me a PM on Saturday and I will get you a few pics of the air cleaner. I don't make it home before dark so it wiould have to be this weekend.

The biggest Spicer aux box I am aware of was rated at 1250 ftlbs of torque. Big sucker with twin counter shafts. You see them for sale occasionally on ebay. They seem to be mostly used by oil field trucks. Being from Houston I bet that was the case.

Bobs toy, Check your messages. If nothing showed up send me a message back. I sent you the details on the motor.

From what I have read the 5&6 series transmissions are a direct flip around of the head gears. I have never personnaly done this but have been keeping an eye out for a 13spd at the right price to do this myself in a 5500. Would get me away from a twin stick setup which should have alot less rotational loss in the drivetrain. Glenn will caution you against this swap in a working truck as it does mess with the ratios a little as far as progression goes. Glenn is a smart guy that has done this before in a working truck. Although not a big fan of it I have seen him say it is alright for a hobby truck. I pulled Glenns opinions from several posts over on the ATHS board.

Stil around. I am cutting her up on monday. PM coming to you.

Payed $4600 for my LJT 2 years ago. Body was pretty solid but needed work due to a barn falling on it. The 673 runs but seems tired. Could just be the timing is off or the injectors need repopped becuase it billows white under load. Generally it was a working truck that was parked back in 91 or 92. They definatly bring a little more cash than a B model and are alot harder to get parts for. You need to be good at fabbing/making things work to do an L model.

Parts of it are going into my L model. Pretty much the entire rolling chasis is getting reused other than the frame. The cab is somewhat solid but has some bad rust in the rear. It would be perfect for making a sleeper cab but other than that would take alot of work to keep around.

I am going by the truck tomorrow so if anyone needs pictures let me know. I am going to start tearing the truck down soon.

Pic didn't attach.

I bought this for the axle and am parting the rest out. The dump bed was rotted and scrapped but all the parts for it down to the cradle are available. If anyone needs any parts let me know what ya need and make a reasonable offer. I want the parts to go to anyone who needs them versus the scrapper. Located in Virginia Beach, VA.

Thanks Mike. That is some good info. The power of google had let me down and I was about to ask that very question in a new thread.

Got the truck home last Friday and got the junk dump bed pulled and hauled for scrap metal. Next time I get home before dark I will throw some pic in the for sale section for anyone that needs some parts. I salvaged the wet kit and dump frame if anyone is looking. Leversole. The steering wheel is there but in rough shape. It would need a total resto to fill the cracks. It is the smaller diameter wheel.

Do yourself a favor and pull it down. there will be a ton off old grease in there. Also gives you a chance to lube the cams for the brakes that are more than likely dry.

Thanks fifth wheel. That is exactly what I wanted to know.

Thanks Bryan. I know that trick well. I was hoping not to pull it if I didn't have to just to check the ratio out but it looks like that is about the only way to tell for sure. I was hoping that you could identify the rear box like you can on an Eaton. Just be a little more work.

Thanks guys. I have no real plans to drive it. The truck is going to be parted out and I am debating if it is worth my while to pull the trans and install it in my L model. If I put the duplex infront of my L's factory auxiliary trans I will have a really good road speed with the donor 4.65 rear end. If the trans is a direct top gear I think that I would be shooting myself in the foot.

Bringing this back to the top. I am still curious to the way the rear box works (under/direct or direct/over) and how Mack id's the transmissions (ie is direct or OD of the main what makes the desgnation on the side of the transmission).