burnin oil

Never seen that attachment before but it is essentially just a needle gun. I may have to go to Northern and see if they have one in stock. 2 more duty stations with Uncle Sam and I will be doing the same. The wife vetoed any more big toys until I own property somewhere.

Trust me I wish I had the space in the RV for a large compressor. I have a huge 240v compressor back home at my parents farm that I miss pretty much daily. I could basically run a sandblaster from dusk to dawn with that thing. Fill the hopper and maybe 3 minutes of down time till the sand ran out. I also really miss the ability to use a 3/4" impact! My toys keep getting bigger and I have less space and tools to get the job done. Some days I really wonder how I fit as many tools, a mig welder, acetlyne torch, and all the parts I have into a 35' trailer. I definatly have an understanding wife. As far as the stiff bristle deal goes, are you talking about the wire wheel that is braided together, maybe 20 strands then another leg? That is what I used on a grinder to clean the rust out. I also have another one without the braids sitting there for stripping the paint back. It works pretty good on paint but not the rust.

Anyone? I put some ATF in the rear along with the gear lube and ran it for a few miles. The ATF is still redish (salvaged from a trans fluid change) but there is a nice light coating of crud, almost like sediment, on the bottom of the diff now. Seems like it is doing its job with all the cleaners/additives. I am hoping to drain the rear in the next couple of days and replace the gear oil so if anyone has an idea on how to repair the leak I would appreciate the input. As it is every time the truck gets driven it is coating the bottom of the axle housing and dripping on the ground.

Good info. Thanks. Unfotunatly I do not have an air supply so I am stuck doing things the old fashioned way. A little more work but not bad. Looks like I will have to find a paint store and look up the chemical wash. My biggest problem is the time frame I am using is so long that I am relying on rattle cans to keep everything in good shape until all the body work is done. At this rate It will be under spray can for a year or two as I have alot of irons in the fire.

Good info so far. I should clarify that I am not coating the entire roof with converter but only areas that had rust damage. Such as the ring around the clearance lights and horns. I also have a decent size rust spot at the rear top of the cab to tackle where the paint peeled at one time and got resprayed. No through holes there either as I have the headliner out and can see the bottom side. Right now I am only wire wheeling rust spots and once that is done I will strip the paint back to due a layer of body filler and a coat of primer/paint so everything is even. Definatly will need a second round with the body hammer but it is pretty straight for having a pole barn fall on her. Any other opinions are welcome.

What is everyones opinion on rust converters? I started repairing the roof on the L model a couple of days ago and have some surface rust to deal with. None of the pitting I am repairing is worthy of cutting out the panel and welding in new metal. I wire wheeled them to bare metal and cleaned the caveties as good as I could then applied a paint on rust converter to neutralize anything I couldn't get out or see. Now I am debating if I should leave the converter in place or strip it off before applying the body filler. If it matters the stuff I used is from clean strip and comes in a 8oz bottle. I have read bad things about rust converters but had good success with this stuff when I used it 5-6 years ago on my daily driver in the rocker panels. Only rust to come back is where the paint has been rubbed off from entering the vehicle. Opinions please.

I have a slight leak coming out of the passenger side cover where the shims go for the ring gear bearings. I am curious as to if there is a tray inside the carrier that directs the oil that may be clogged up with sludge. I thought about just siliconing the shims and cover to stop the leak but don't want to mess up the preload on the bearings. The bearing cover has leaked since day one (truck sat for 12 years and oil had broken down) when I changed the rear fluid. I am trying to flush it right now to be on the safe side but the flush oil looks pretty good. Is there anything that I am over looking here?

Been my experience when everything dies in the interior that it is the ignition switch.

When did they change cranks? I have kicked around adding a turbo to a 673 myself and not turning up the fuel. Play truck only. I scored a pedigree turbo that is unused in a package deal with some other parts I needed. The Mack Museum guesses my motor is from around mid 1956 and appears not to be rebuilt but anything is possable.

Its a difference in the angle of the bead.

Might want to double check that. I just finished up getting my class A in VA to haul my own toys due to grossing 35k lbs. After talking to the state police and DOT inspectors all I needed was the truck and trailer tagged proper, comply with tie down requirements, class A CDl, a med card, and to roll through any wiegh stations. No IFTA, logs etc. Same game in TX by the way as I am a TX resident doing time in VA thanks to Uncle Sam. I don't need my truck put out of service when I transfer.

Thanks Bob. Everything showed up a couple days ago so hopefully I can put that good info to work here in the near future. The KW stuff was really good. Thanks for the help and let me know if I can do anything for you.

Bob, did you get my PM? It is getting close to time to play with the Mack again.

would this be the correct way to drive a Detroit? Around 6:50 he really rails through the gears.

fxfym, what does that fire truck wiegh? I would think that you are pushing them trailer tires pretty bad. My single axle L model is 14,800lbs and maxs out my dual tandem.

Easy way of saying this. instructional permit at any age= need a 21 yo person with a CDL with you. cdl Lis under 21= in state only all by yourself CDL Lis 21+= interstate travel. Alot of states don't require a CDL to operate air brakes. I see them all the time running around here registered at less than 26k. I actually talked to a lis examiner the other day that turned an applicant away as the rental vehicle had air brakes but didn't meet the 26,001 lb requirement of a Class A or B CDL. If your truck and trailer are under 26k combined and the trailer is less than 10k you do not need a CDL to operate it by federal DOT requirements. NJ may have some additional stuff to say though.

http://www.6066gmcguy.org/jolly-lcf.htm I imagine it doesn't have the eyeball hood though. 62 was the last year for that in the Apache line up but I am not sure for the Viking. That was a few years before my time.

I can tell you that I hauled my L model on a similiar trailer but has a fifth hitch. i am looking to convert it to a gooseneck when I get the time. Stability was fine. Wieght was heavy! Every law man I passed looked twice but noone stopped me. After talking to both VA and TX to be legal for a private citazen it requires a CDL, med card, and proper registration. No other BS other than stopping at scales. No IFTA or log books. What are you going to tow it with? I bet the first thing they check is axle wieght on the tow vehicle. That was the common thread with every DOT officer I talked to about my load. Somewhere on here I have picks of it crossing the Cat scale behind my 5500.

When I was in high school I knew a guy who tried to run Everclear through his Ford one night after running out of gas. Key word tried. It would still start, smoked like crazy and wouldn't move under its own power after that. From memory it was a 351 mod motor.

I am starting to feel like I am watching an episode of "the walking dead" now. 5qts would get me 20 miles in my pickup. I should be able to find another junker by then. That or the big blue storage container in the back of an Advance Auto.

The compression was low so they will burn gasoline also. There was/is a big plate that said no aviation gas (110 octane). I really liked the old screamers even if they aren't all that powerful. As far as an end of the world vehicle goes I think any relaible mechanically injected diesel will do. They will all burn oil so every drain pan you pass is a 5qt gas station.

If that fails I would check out Anderson brothers and Northern Drivetrain. I have gotten some pretty odd stuff from both. I recently tore up a flange yoke that was on national back order that my local driveline shop couldn't get. Northern had it to me 2 days later! Anderson can be a little hit or miss but if you get the right guy on the line they will bend over backwards for you.

Another place you might try is SouthBend Clutch in Ind. They do alot of custom work and Peter is a standup guy. They do alot of bigger stuff and have a solid reputation for the guys who hop up Cummins motors in Dodge pickups. I have abused 3 of his clutches so far with no problem but they were all in pickups.

Bob, That sounds like a winner. All 3 on my refrences are for in truck adjustment only. I will PM you my email. Thanks for the help.

Bob, is your book talking about dropping the steering arm and then making adjustments to the box? I only ask because I have 3 versions of the adjustments including one from a B model. None of them go into actual rebuild. I am in no hurry as I will not be playing with the truck till after begining of the month. Got a full plate till then. Repairing the box and swapping the air compressor are my next 2 projects. That will make her road worthy other than needing new rubber.