rhasler

Well now, it's about time you got back here your Ma and I were worried sick! Was just about to send out an APB and hire a pack of bloodhounds to hunt you down! Welcome back Mark!

Heh heh, Clubbin' baby seals, now that's classic stuff right there. Also, remember to "Watch out where the huskies go, and don't you eat that yellow snow"

From a serviceability standpoint I think the GU813 is better than the GU713, it just seems easier to get to a lot of things, but it's far and away harder to work on than any of the "legacy" trucks in my opinion. The 2010 emissions engines we have around here have been running pretty good for the most part without any major engine failure type trouble so far. If you decide to buy the GU keep this one rule in mind: EVEN THOUGH IT'S A PAIN IN THE ASS ON AN MP ENGINE, WHEN YOU TAKE SOMETHING APART PUT ALL THE BOLTS BACK IN THE DAMN THING! Probably close to 85% of the work I've done in the last month is directly related to someone working on an MP engine and not reinstalling all of the hardware that was removed.

Congratulations should go to David who figgered that out back when the server problems first started, he was on top of it!

Am I mistaken? Were you guys racing for "pinks" and you won?

Yes sir, I think you're right. Looks like some bad welding and the splice was performed incorrectly.

Does it come with a trailer load of those $450 suicide knobs?

Jack (my personal hero) is a Swede, and if he didn't come over on the boat it was pretty close to it. He made his living for a lot of years working on Macks, Whites, and Autocars and every time he stops by for a visit all he can do is shake his head at what we're working with now.

And just what else would they buy?

Awesome. Thanks Doug!

Nice pictures Barry. Next time you (or anyone else here) stop by there try to get the VIN off of the gas turbine chassis.

There's a UFO at 1:30 of the video too.

I've noticed the time it takes for full size pictures to come up after clicking on the attachments in posts is way shorter than it used to be, probably less than half the time it used to take on the old server.

Trent it never ceases to amaze me how good your truck looks. Are the headlamps operational, and if not, how do you get around DOT?

With all the weather and meteorological phenomenon over there I'm starting to worry a little too. Last I remember him being on here was back around the time of the software upgrade. Has anyone tried to PM him?

After a long and grueling trip to Cleveland, Otherdog finally returns home only to find a devastating earthquake has struck while he was away on business. Otherdog and Jo survey their acreage and scope out the extent of the damage And sure enough, Otherdog's carpentry skills have withstood all that nature could throw at them, despite the lack of building code compliance that was the very cornerstone of their construction.

Assuming the cable end is not broken off I would suspect that you need the stop lever attaching screw. Item "BS" in the attached image.

Best of luck to everyone in harm's way. Hope if anything bad should happen that no one is seriously hurt and the insurance company doesn't screw you over.

This may help explain the function of the switch and what the different lights/flashes it produces mean. 1-017 DPF Smart Switch Operating Instructions.pdf

Way to go Barry, good job, carry on, as you were, etc. etc. At least for today you're granted the title of "Hardest Working Man in Mack Trucks", enjoy your Miller, you've earned it!

1-1 is an oil pressure fault code. A 2000 model should have step 7 software, so you shouldn't get a code for oil pressure when the key is on and the engine isn't running. Is your oil pressure reading OK? Around 2000 there were a lot of cam problems too.

Goodluck. Did you happen to check for any broken or loose bolts holding the oil distribution housing to the bottom of the block?

Rob, here's a link to the Euclid foundation air brake parts manual https://s3.amazonaws.com/helm-arm-lod/100ab.pdf There are some Standard Forge parts beginning around page 50