rhasler

Here's my new unit, all kinda screwin' power with this one!

I say we all forgive him, but only if we're invited to the inaugural Boston Butt grilling with the new "unit".

And here I was thinking the A/C had finally quit working in the Peterbilt, derned misleading thread titles.

Removing ball joints? Get a high nut that is the same thread as the stud on the ball joint and a matching bolt, thread the bolt about halfway into the nut and then thread the assembly onto the ball joint stud, smack the bolt with a hammer and the ball joint should separate from the control arm. Best part about this is that it won't damage the threads on the ball joint. I saws the other day that Tiger Tools has a set of adapters that works in the same that I'm seriously thinking about possibly getting in the near future (if everything works out.).

Ratchet-wise I prefer Mac's flex handles. Snap-On's are too fine and tend to strip out internally. My high dollar Snap-On 3/8 drive torque/angle wrench crapped out on my (electrically) the other day, cost 75-80 dollars to get repaired, came back like new though. I think the complete handle was replaced.

Hate buying wrenches cause I only buy them in sets and they ain't cheap. Most of the guys I work with won't even put up the money to buy Craftsman wrenches,let alone any kind of "specialty" wrench. Instead they have a mish-mash of Harbor Freight type crap that I wouldn't even bother melting down for scrap. Compared to them Sunnex is a high quality tool. My preference is still Proto. Their wrenches are pretty similar to the Snap-On wrenches but cost substantially less. Mac wrenches have obnoxiously large open ends that I've never liked much. Matco and SK have been poorly represented here for a long time and I have no tools from either manufacturer.

Drain the oil, drop the pan, remove the fuel inlet line to the cylinder block, remove the fuel system check valve from the block and plug the block off with a 16mm x 1.5 o-ring seal plug, attach pressure vessel with UV dyed fuel and pressurize the fuel gallery and look for leaks coming around the cam lobes for the injectors and/or running down the block from the area of the camshaft.

Sounds like you cut the lower o-ring on the EUP when you installed it or maybe a worn EUP bore in the block. There is an improved o-ring kit that you can use. If the rest of the EUPs are old it could be that the fuel is coming from around the plungers on them too.

Same thing happened with the outfit we purchased a brake rivet press from about five years ago. We needed a part for it and while trying to source it found the company has since gone under.

That sounds and looks awful purty, good job!

The book I have says 22 psi at full load rated speed, 375 hp @ 2200 rpm and 1040 lb ft @ 1600 rpm for the ENDT866, 355 hp @ 2100 rpm and 1040 lb ft @ 1500 rpm for the ENDT866C, and 325 hp @ 2100 rpm and 1000 lb ft @ 1500 rpm for the ENDDT866.

For several years SK was owned by French manufacturer Facom. It was probably 2009 or 2010 that Facom was obtained by The Stanley Works (Stanley/Proto). I imagine Stanley had to sell the SK brand off as part of the deal.

You should probably check that you aren't getting any coolant/water into the engine oil. If you are definitely shut it down before it wipes out the bearings. Look for traces of milky residue on any part of the lube system that you can easily access like the oil fill cap or the top of the dipstick.

Try this: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?app=tutorials&article=4

Hi Glenn, what's the VIN number, I might be able to find them. I located a set on an RW700 Glider kit but I'm not sure that they are all the same.

Here's a bulletin explaining the flushing process. It's geared more towards more current engines but should still be applicable to your engine too. Any chance of getting some pictures of that engine posted here? SB 232-025 Cooling System Cleaning and Flushing All MACK Engines (Feb. 10,2009).pdf

I wouldn't go too long with the soap in the system, probably an hour or two at the most. Even the commercial cooling system cleaning agents recommend a couple of passes.

Looks almost like an ABF truck, 'cept it has a radio. Rob could get some Super 10 experience with this one.

A happy star spangled birthday to you sir!

I'm with Rob on the single exhaust, at least on an R or RD. The RL, RS, and RW look good with two though.

That chassis record shows the truck to have been built 11.30.73. Doesn't show the engine, but it should have been a Cummins engine. RTF915 transmission, CRDLP92/93 with 4.17 ratio, FA535C front axle, 9 leaf Mack camelback rear suspension with split trunnion, 22" spoke wheels front and back.

Happy 4th to all of you!

Engine oil will also turn a milky color when mixed with coolant and agitated. If the oil cooler has an o-ring that is leaking a small amount you may not notice oil loss. After finding the source, if any, of the contamination, you should be able to flush the cooling system with some type of detergent. We used to use Dawn dish soap quite a bit and it worked well enough, just had to make sure that the engine temperature got high enough for the thermostat to open so the soap could circulate through the whole system. It also gets higher RPMs (2300 no load rated speed). I was really talking more about the ability of the block to withstand the higher horsepower being generated. From what I can remember the block was the same as the automotive version (ie no additional reinforcements to prevent distortion of the cylinders), but I could be wrong about that.

Paid a visit to Jack yesterday and he was outside cooking on the grill too. He was drinking Natural Lite too. Here's some pictures. Jack's old pickup and my dog's black ass. His neighbor's Power Wagon snow plow. Jack's old tool box. Saw this truck of the side of the highway.

Never seen one in person, so I'm certainly no expert on them, but the base engine should essentially be the same as the automotive E7 engine. The troubleshooting section in the Mechanical Marine E7 manual 5-108 says oil cooler or head gasket. Do you have a the service manual for the engine? I always wondered how those engines performed and was always intrigued by the fact that the same base engine that in automotive applications only put out 350 HP stock could be reliably hopped up to 650 HP for marine usage.