rhasler

Rob, there should just be a gasket behind the input shaft bearing retainer, if you're getting oil coming around the input shaft I would take a look at any o-ring seals on your PTO shift cover or other air controls on the transmission that might be pressurizing the transmission case.

Good job getting pictures of the planetary setup on the Titan!

Lots of air time for Mack and for Doug Maney! Good job on the show, congratulations are in order!

Welcome, looks like a pretty solid truck. Are my eyes deceiving me or does it have fender skirts?

There should be a label near the driver's door with that information. Your chassis record says it has Mack part # 1PT3055, 33607SHINY SILVER-MET (I think DuPont?).

The US10 emissions MP8 still has EGR. The amount of EGR introduced into the cylinders is lower than in previous years. The engines in some circumstances may have to be manually regened, but for the most part the regen is passive.

Check the belt tensioner and make sure the belt isn't tracking off of the roller. The mark on the roller shouldn't be much wider than the width of the belt. Might check the alternator and make sure nothings getting into the fan on it.

Mack recommends Cronatron welding systems products for removal of the broken studs. www.cronatronwelding.com or call 1-800-526-3899.

Pulling the transmission with the plate doesn't require removal of the countershaft covers, the spacers provide enough gap to prevent damage to the stamped type covers. I'm not sure if all the Roadranger cases have the bearing covers in exactly the same place. I imagine that is why the plate is slotted. The adapter from OTC comes with a set of counter-bored spacers that accept a sprauge washer that keeps the bolt from coming out unintentionally.

Thas one bad-ass bulldog right there buddy!

Here are some pictures of the adapter These are all fairly rough measurements. The adapter attaches to the case at one of the upper holes for the countershaft cover and two holes on the lower countershaft cover. In order to keep from bending over the ear on the adapter you need to use spacers approx. 1/2" thick between it and the transmission case along with bolts that are 1/2" to 3/4" longer than the bolts for the countershaft cover. The adapter measures 19" overall width. The piece of channel that attaches to the jack is 16 13/16" in width. The longer side of the adapter at the mounting ear is 9 3/8", the channel on this side is 7". The shorter side of the adapter at the upper mounting ear is 7", the channel on this side is 4 1/4". The slotted holes are 1 1/2" wide and approx. 7/16" diameter. The hole on the longer side is centered at 3/4" from the top of the adapter and 2 1/4" from the edge. The upper hole on the short side is centered at 1 1/8" from the edge and 1" from the top. The clover leaf hole is centered in the horizontal at 2 3/4" from the bottom and 2 5/8 from the edge. The mounting provision for attaching to the jack is the same as the adapter for the Mack transmission

Not a chance in hell (especially not on that hill)! I was a runnin' the computer!

Cemetery at the bottom of the hill. An old R model that's been sitting for years. An Kenworth dump truck Little dozer, I think maybe an Allis Chalmers, but I didin't get a good look at it.

Here's a nice steep, winding hill

Bulldog pissing on the big V?

The only issue I've had with the OTC was that the threaded rod that tilts the platform fore and aft is (or was) retained at the platform end with a rinky-dink snap ring. One day installing a T2018 transmission in an RD chassis the snap ring gave out and the transmission ended up halfway in the cab. After that I drilled and tapped the rod on the platform end to accept a bolt and installed some oversize OD washers to prevent the same thing from happening again.

If that don't learn her I don't know what will...

Rob, here's a picture of the adapter from OTC's website. The part number for it is 49611. I'll see if I can get some pictures and dimensions of the one at work.

The OTC transmission jack works well but I have never used the white plate that you have there when pulling a Fuller transmission. I always use the adapter for pulling the auxiliary section so that I can physically bolt the transmission to the jack and then I stick a block of wood under the front of the transmission to add extra support. I was never fond of strapping something as large as a transmission down and trying to remove/install it.

PB'laster, batteries and/or jumper cables, and filters for sure.

I would speculate that the original failure was in fact the pistons. From what you have described it sounds like maybe the pump to engine timing may have been off. Since you found the cracks on all 6 cylinders I would lean towards a problem with the pump and not the individual injectors. Advanced timing results in increased cylinder pressure which will cause cracks as you have found as well as the blowby you noted. I've personally seen a brand new Remack engine ruined by timing that was set at 45 degrees btdc in a little less than 2 hours of run time. I would definitely look at the rod that had the bearing failure to make sure it isn't bent and at the remaining bearings as they may give you some clues as to what happened to the failed bearing. BMT member JOxborrow posted a helpful failure analysis guide in the wiki that may be of help: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?app=tutorials&article=58

I have trouble finding stuff there too sometimes, Meritor's site is even harder to navigate through.

Here are a couple of links to the parts and service manuals Parts catalog: http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcService=GET_FILE&dID=270949 Service manual: http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcService=GET_FILE&dID=288002

Prolly lecturing the drivers on the importance of lubrication...