rhasler

This was pulled up in front of the building this afternoon, I thought about going out front to take a picture, but then he pulled around back, right next to where I was working.

Our local radiator shop repairs them with some type of epoxy. I've talked to the guy before and he says the bond between the epoxy and the aluminum is actually stronger than the welded joint from the factory.

Can't wait for episode 3, "RandyP and the Ancient Aztec Pyramid".

Here is a link to Arvin Meritor's front axle parts manual: http://www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/PB8951.PDF. There is a dimensional breakdown of several ball joints starting on page 21. You may be able to match it up from this information.

No, still #1

A junk SAE #2 flywheel housing also work quite well, if you're fortunate enough to have one laying around.

You can pull the whole transmission and stand it vertically, pull the range case off and replace the parts, if you don't mind pulling the transmission.

Same results here, zero shown in the parts system. The part number for the spring comes up as package 10, but there was no supersession chain for that number or a listing for an individual piece.

Sort of off topic, but has anyone ever started a wiki entry relating to suppliers for some of the "Mack" parts that aren't actually built by Mack? What I'm thinking about is things like frame rails, cabs, and the like that are Mack specific but that aren't actually built by Mack, kind of a rolling database that would be updated as the information became available. The modern trucks of today are the antique trucks of tomorrow (maybe).

You might check the small stainless steel line running between the valve covers to the turbo for damage, it supplies air to the turbo actuator. The VTG control valve on the left side of the engine controls air flow through the line and should provide a minimum of 95 psi.

I heard from a reliable source today that the frame rails are made by Metalsa. Their website is http://www.metalsa.com.mx.. The following link is to a brief synopsis on the company and their relationship with Dana: http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/metalsa-finalizes-purchase-of-danas-structural-components-business-86977692.html

I'm pretty sure the rear ends aare coming from Arvin Meritor now

I looked at a couple of non-VMAC engines and both have casting number 239GB5518M, but they appear to have the oil supply port used for the Econovance valve in the block.

I've heard in the past that Dana made frame rails for Mack but I don't know if that is true. I think there are a few different vendors that manufacture the frames currently, or that made them for the CV chassis. Some of the CV chassis had an incorrectly cut relief area, others didn't, and the fix for the frame rails was dependent upon the manufacturer, at least as I understood it.

I can't tell you what the differences between the castings are, but since the casting numbers aren't the same there should be differences in the blocks. They sometimes change castings to make improvements, sometimes this will have an impact on interchangeability, usually it is to add strength to a weak area, to add a threaded boss, or to incorporate an improvement of some kind. This was the case when Mack changed the blocks for the E-Tech engines to relocate the coolant port for the air compressor, which in it's original position was susceptible to plugging with debris floating in the cooling system. The E7 PLN engines all had oil cooled pistons, 4 7/8" bore and 6 1/2" stroke. I think they should be intercahngeable, but take plenty of time to make sure there aren't any coolant or oil passages plugged on one that aren't plugged on the other and take plenty of measurements on both blocks to make sure that any previous boring procedures are not overlooked.

It could be. With that amount of coolant loss you should be visually detect the leak by pulling the outlet hose off of the EGR cooler and having a look inside.

P.S. Randy, we're going to need some more pictures of Spot to work with

I truly consider this to be a cautionary tale about posting pictures on the internet, no telling how they might end up being modified.

Sheriff Otherdog arrives home after the long bus ride home to find the bogged down excavator

We join our hero as he converses with his boy sidekick Timmy Spot and Timmy meander over to Sheriff Otherdog's property to check on Randy, but find his excavator mired in the lagoon! Little does Timmy know that both Randy and Sheriff Otherdog are riding into town on a charter bus after attending the big playoff game to decide who will be facing the Daingerfield Longhorns at the newly christened Longhorn Bowl! TO BE CONTINUED....

What I have used for years is a u-bolt nut with threads matching the tapered stud and a bolt threaded into the top of the nut. I then thread this "tool" onto the top of the ball joint stud, after the castle nut is removed, so that the bottom of the bolt is butted up against the stud on the ball joint and give it a few sharp cracks with a hammer. This prevents damage to the threads if the ball joint is to be reused and also prevents mushrooming the top of the stud.

Yep, he sure gets into his work!

Start by checking your casting numbers.

The other point to consider is that if the end of the tank were to be "guillotined" the bottle turns into a deadly rocket

Just plugging in a new sensor won't do anything, the sensor has to read voltage produced by the transmission. A new sensor will cost as much as having the speed limit removed/changed. It should take about 10-15 minutes if that's all you have them do.