rhasler

Rob, I'm pretty sure I've seen that picture published somewhere else before but can't place where I saw it.

Wow, I don't think brown is the first color that comes to mind as a metallic paint, but I think that it looks great. The engine compartment is also very nice, very clean and well maintained. My compliments.

Was that a mixup at the pump by the fuel supplier or was it sabotage?

And if you get to work now you can probably build youself a hypothetical tire chain bumper (we know how you like that welder).

Usually low fuel pressure caused by leaking injector cups, but it could be any of the exterior fuel items too.

The valves are actually adjusted at 30 degrees after TDC. Unless this is an early E7 engine, you should have valve set markings on the flywheel. There should be a cover on the bottom of the flywheel housing held on with 6 small bolts. Remove the cover and you should be able to find the marks on the flywheel for adjusting the valves. If there are no marks on the flywheel you will need to make sure that the pointer at the front of the engine isn't bent before using it to adjust the valves. What kind of noise/knock are you hearing? Is the knock the reason you started adjusting the valves to begin with?

The specs for the 1988 E9 500 show peak torque at 1660 lb ft (at 1300 rpm). A 1650 lb ft rated clutch is probably at it's limit if the engine is stock.

Just relabel it as "Otherdog's World Famous Blackened Cajun Style Turkey" or something along those lines and you'll be a wealthy man!

Get ahold of a Mack dealership and tell them you want a Mack remanufactured oil cooler assembly. You will probably need to give them the VIN number of your truck. As I said, I'm not sure of the price, but I know the last time I checked the Remack oil cooler was less than the rebuild kit and I think comes with a one (maybe two) year warranty. Mack has some kind of coupon thing going on too right now that might be worth checking out. Here's the link to it: http://www.macktrucks.com/default.aspx?pageid=5044. Since it's asking for your email, etc. you may not trust it. You should be able to get to the same place by going to the Mack Trucks website, click parts and service, click parts, click ReMack, the link to the coupon club is at the bottom of the list.

That's a real pisser there. Of course there are other more precious things that can be lost due to over collecting Mack Trucks and related memorabilia, just ask Rob...

Happy Thanksgiving everybody!

Now that's the way to handle PR! Didn't even cost 'em anything extra to do it.

They used to do the same thing with their Macks but I've seen some going down the road with the Bulldog intact. There's a ski resort that has an 6 cylinder Mack engine running their ski lift

You should be able to get a ReMack assembly for you engine. I'm not sure of the price but I'm pretty sure it carries a warranty and is cheaper than the rebuild kit. You just have to install the end capsfrom your oil cooler on the ReMack cooler.

I'm probably way off base with my previous comments. As I said, I really have no idea what went on to get this truck made, I just don't particularly care for it. I suppose maybe it has it's place though...

It might be a liability issue. Seems like I heard about UPS being sued by someone because a truck that they (UPS) had scrapped was sold and put back on the road only to have an accident. Since the truck still had the UPS paint and decals or wassinsome way identifiable as being a UPS truck they were sued. Don't know if that is true or not, kind of a second hand account of a second hand account.

Look in the wiki for the R, and U operators manual that Barry posted there. It has a diagram of the shift patterns for various transmissions and quite a bit of other information that would apply to your truck. Here's the link: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?app=tutorials&article=25

Glad you made it back, we were starting to worry that you didn't like us no more! Got a hankering for some turkey and rice soup m'self. SLUUURRRRRP....yum.

The worst part about it was that the factory installed the air tanks behind where the SCR catalyst would have been if it was frame mounted, so there is a gap between the DPF and the air tanks that is basically unusable space.

There's a picture of one in my gallery, nothing too spectacular though.

The Mack number for the tank is 76MF527 (P2 version for CXN or CHN chassis). The tank comes with a 16 psi cap. According to the service bulletin you also need the following parts and quantities: 1 9MD47 Strap, surge tank mounting 18" 12AX148F Anti-squeak material (178 mm [7"] for top strap, 279 mm [11"] for lower strap) 2 37AX435 Flat washer 1 23AX331 Lock nut 1 72RU11627 Bracket, clutch cable mounting, CXN, CHN, CX, CH, CT and CV models 1 48RU21224M Button tie wrap, clutch cable mounting, CXN, CHN, CX, CH, CT and CV models 1 63AX335 Plug, 1/4", recessed head, CXN, CX, CT and CV models 1 63AX3447 Fitting, straight, for fill line on CXP and CTP 63AX3834 Fitting, 45-degree elbow, for fill line on CXN, CHN, CX, CH, CT and CV models 5’ 243AX2F Hose, 5/16", overflow, 1.5 m (5 ft) required — 48RU2313P2 Tie wraps, overflow hose clamping (quantity as required) You should be able to make it work without most of the above parts as they are general hardware, they are standard (not metric) threads however. If you have a coolant level sensor with pipe threads you will need to change it to the boss (straight thread o-ring seal) style sensor. I think the part number for it is/was 64MT466.

Come to think of it I haven't heard anything from bullhusk lately either. I'm sure Mark will turn up though. Probably be able to hear him holler from here, especially if Spot is on target!

I'd be happy to help where I can. There are a few of us on here that are pretty well versed on the ASET AC engines and should be able to help you with troubleshooting.

Turn the speed control button off and press the set/decel button, the code should flash out. You can also use the buttons on the instrument cluster. I think the right button has to be held down, the code will be displayed as an SAE message on the center of the dash.

That's kind of what it sounds like to me too. Just in case you still need one and someone here has one to get rid of the 11GB number from your line sheet shows the turbo as a 631GC5106P1 though the original number should have been the one shown on your sheet, with the reman part number being 631GC5134P4X.