rhasler

I found this website yesterday. They have blueprints of various trucks available for viewing. http://www.the-blueprints.com/blueprints/

It looks like there was plenty of valve/piston contact. You might want to check the rod and make sure it isn't bent.

This is the basic troubleshooting information from the manual for your engine as relates to low oil pressure. The possible cause is listed first, the correction is listed second. I would pay particular attention to the fuel system as the EUP's and fuel transfer pump can leak fuel straight into the engine oil. If you have the pan off of it again it probably wouldn't hurt to remove a few bearing sets for inspection. Even if they look good, new bearing sets are not especially high priced. LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE 1. Oil level insufficient. Oil leaking from oil line, gasket, etc. 1. Check engine oil level. Add oil if necessary. Check for oil leaks. Repair as required. 2. Incorrect oil viscosity. 2. Drain oil, change oil filters, and fill with the proper grade oil meeting MACK specifications. 3. Defective oil pressure gauge. 3. Check the operation of the oil pressure gauge. If defective, replace. 4. Clogged oil filter(s). 4. Replace oil filters. Clean or replace oil cooler. Drain oil and refill with oil meeting MACK specifications. 5. Engine oil diluted with diesel fuel. 5. Check fuel system for leaks. Make necessary repairs. Drain diluted oil, change oil filters, and refill with oil meeting MACK specifications. 6. Defective oil pump. 6. Remove oil pressure relief valve and check condition of seat. Check that relief valve spring is not sticking, and check for proper spring tension. Check internal thrust washer. Check cap. Check assembly parts. Using the incorrect parts will result in incorrect oil pressure. Make any necessary repairs or install a new relief valve. 7. Oil pump gears not meshing properly. 7. Check mounting arrangement. If the engine has been rebuilt, check that the gear ratio of the oil pump drive and driven gears are correct. Incorrect gear combinations will result in immediate gear failure and possible engine damage. 8. Incorrect oil filter mounting pad gasket. 8. Check for correct oil pad gasket. 9. Excessive clearance between crankshaft and bearings. 9. Overhaul the engine. Replace any worn/defective parts.

Ditto. The pre 2002 emissions E-Tech engines had some problems, but overall were pretty good engines and simple to work on.

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Thanks for the update. Did it take longer than expected to recieve the unit or was it just a matter of not having the time to install it right away?

I read an article in the paper this morning about a hoarder woman who had gone missing in Las Vegas. Her husband eventaully found her feet sticking out from a pile of stuff in their house, this after corpse seeking dogs used at Ground Zero after 9/11 and in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina had failed to find her.

The whole project looks pretty good. Did you have to modify the grille, or did it fit right in place?

The part number for that tank is 22QE39321P2. There are no dimensions given for it.

I think on the Big Cam III the accessory drive pulley should be at the "A" mark, the crankshaft on the air copmpressor should be rotated so that it's timing mark is at the 9:30 position. Manual also says the two cylinder air compressor does not need to be timed.

If everything goes right he's probably not too far off on the time it will take. Roll the engine around until the adjuster is visible through the hole in the bell housing. Depending on the clutch you will need to remove the lock tab or depress the spring on the adjuster. Push and hold the clutch pedal all the way in. Depending on the clutch: For a clutch with lock tab you will need a long screwdriver or prybar (or preferably a clutch adjusting tool) to turn the ring that the lock ring engages against. For a clutch with spring lock you will need a 5/8" end wrench and a screwdriver or prybar to depress the adjuster while turning. Turn the adjuster clockwise to increase free travel and counterclockwise to decrease free travel. You are looking for approx. 1/2" gap between the bearing and the clutch brake, or about 1 1/2" at the pedal. You should feel clutch brake "squeeze" at about 1/2" from the floor. You may also have to adjust the external linkage inorder to get the right clutch brake squeeze. It is important to make the adjustment internally, using the adjuster, in order to get the correct bearing travel. Simply adjusting using the external linkage adjustment will only create slack in the linkage, which will feel like free play, but will not change the clutch engagement/disengagement point. If you have problems with making the adjustments you may want to check out the Roadranger website.

The driver told me this was the smoothest riding truck he had ever been in. He's ordering a new 2011 model chassis Monday. Here are a few more pictures (edited for content). I could actually crawl under the sleeper easily if I wanted to.

I haven't worked on alot of Cummins engines either. There were timing marks on the accessory drive/air compressor. It's been awhile since I messed with one, but I think the noise was only there during the air compressors unloaded stage when the compressor was out of time. I'll see if I can find that information when I'm closer to a manual.

Here's a couple of pictures.

Does it only knock when the air compressor is unloaded?

We had a nice looking Titan in the yard today (just passing through). I got some pictures that I will post later, until then you lovers of modern Mack machinery will just have wait anxiously to see it.

Whne I was in Junior High someone tipped over the grease trap at the school just after the weather started to warm up. The grease ran down the street and covered probably about a mile worth of the road's length. Ah, the aroma gently caresses my nostrils, stimulates my olfactory senses, and gives me butterflies in my stomach even still. The next school year there was still signs of it in gutters.

I think what Mack/Volvo (and maybe all of the OEMS) did was to introduce parts of the new emission controls in different markets in order to "guage" their effectiveness. EGR and DPF in the US, SCR in Europe. I'm not sure about that, but it kind of makes sense. The way they talk now the EGR is almost non existant on the new engines, in other words it is hardly necessary. It must be nice to get that kind of power out of the MP8. I also heard, several years ago, that the E-Tech engine would have been US10 compliant with only the addition of the SCR system. This was long before the concept of the DPF was even being discussed openly, I think probably around the time of the first EGR engines.

That "gravy" is full of protein! The worst are the trucks that pick up from grease traps (Valley Protein, et. al.). The motels won't even let them park nearby most of the time. It turns my stomach just thinking of the stench.

That's what I was afraid of. That was a Midliner paint code that cross referenced to a Mack and a PPG number, thought it might be worth a shot.

Happy Birthday Mr. Van Scott!

A rose by any other name would smell as sweet.....and vice versa.

When we have a garbage truck in the shop we have a vanilla extract that we spray. Smells kind of like Lucky Charms breakfast cereal mixed with garbage afterwards, but it's better than the alternative.

You might try PPG paint code 40496. The description I see for it is "Mack Green", but I would check it out first.

The list I have says that between 1956 and 1964 there were 77 B85 chassis manufactured. It also says that 908 B chassis fire apparatus were manufactured between 1954 and 1966.