rhasler

At least it was only coffee and you knew where it came from. As for myself, I've become accustomed to "spit cans" and their related spillage.

Just be sure that if you go swimming in the pool that you do it BEFORE eating chili dogs, don't want to get any cramps, and the other motel patrons might not like a Rob powered bubble bath. Have a good time out there.

That thing looks Tuf. Could probably do without the graphics myself.

I wonder if any of you collectors in the US have any Australian right hand drive trucks in your collections. Seems like those would be kind of rare in the States.

Check the air conditioner high pressure switch connector in the engine compartment for a loose connection. I have gotten new fan solenoids that were bad before.

Laugh maniacally at them?

Thermometer in the back yard, in the shade, currently reads 102

Check the ground connections on the batteries, at the starter, engine block ground, frame rail ground, alternator ground, cab ground breaker, and the left side cab ground for loose or bad connections. If everything is ok in those areas you may have a power relay (to the left of the cab fuse panel there is a row of 4 relays) that is going bad.

You'll need to remove the cup holder from the front of the HVAC cover, there are two hidden screws under it. On the bottom of the cover there is a small plastic locating tab that you will have to slide the cover off of to get it off. HVAC Cover.pdf

Can't blame you there.

That's almost like having to put your family dog to sleep.

Like a VHD? I thought it looked more like a Tonka toy.

That's what I was thinking, but they temporarily used them again on some early E-Techs.

Sounds like it may be time to pull the pan and check some bearings! The fuel might be coming past the lower injector o-rings which would wash fuel down the cylinder rather than leak from the high pressure fuel line. As for the coolant content in the oil, I can't remember exactly when they stopped using o-rings on the liners in production, but at some point the liner o-ring was replaced with a bead of silicone applied to the counterbore. Over time the silicone can deteriorate. You may have an eroded counterbore allowing coolant to slip past the OD of the liner. Before worrying too much about that I would check the injectors, o-rings, etc as these won't require too much time to check.

Hi Rob. I think fjh may be right. I've never noticed the noise referred to, but most of our trucks carry tire chains year round. The "T" blocks are more or less a means of limiting the travel of the spring side to side. The lighter suspension setup (I think only the SS34 but maybe the SS38 too) doesn't use the blocks.

See Mackpro's response. Boost is supposed to stay the same, however I have never seen a published spec for the boost pressure so I can't tell you what it was supposed to be in the first place. The US10 turbos have several, shall we say, "design improvements".

If you look at the diagram you can see the there is a line going from the "T" near that quick release valve to the spring brake control valve on the "C" port. If you disconnect that line at the spring brake valve and check to see which side the air is coming from (valve side or line side) it might help it narrow down. You should be able to do the same thing with the R12 valve. It wouldn't be the first time a new part was bad out of the box.

I think the ISX uses the same basic turbo as the MP10. On the Mack US10 emission engines the turbos are supposed to have different internals than the US07's did, so I would guess that the Cummins version of the turbo might be different from the Mack version but I'm not sure.

I'll check it out, thanks.

So is the engine brake is working good? How much improvement over before?

Basically three bolts hold the pump to the engine, two bolts hold the suction tube to the pump. Part number from SB 219-008 is 315GC466M, part number may change to a WID#, so make sure they look the pump up and give you the right one.

What's the model and year of the truck?

Mackpro beat me to the punch there. Here are the specs given in the E-Tech Service Manual for troubleshooting the J-Tech (Jake Model 690) engine brake. E-Tech™ Engine with J-Tech™ Engine Brake Engine rpm 2100 — 40 psi (2.8 bar) Engine rpm 1700 — 35 psi (2.4 bar)* Engine rpm 1500 — 30 psi (2.0 bar)* Engine rpm 1300 — 30 psi (2.0 bar)* Engine rpm 1100 — 30 psi (2.0 bar)* *Specified pressures with engine at normal operating temperatures

I think Mike is right. Rob, you better install some type of vent system, wouldn't want any blowby!

Hey Jerry, what shops are you near?