rhasler

It sounds like randyp finished his work in the "lagoon". I think maybe he's running out of new titles for himself (although I did enjoy Climate Control Tech randy), so I came up with a new one for him. How does Excrement Excavation and Extraction Specialist sound? Maybe he could be Beautician randy, after all he knows all about the exfoliating propeties of an acid bath. Maybe Mad Scientist randy? There are still alot of possibilites out there. I hope you had fun and didn't have to wallow in it too much randyp.

If you have a VIN in the truck I can check to see how it's programmed. About this time frame Mack got real stingy about this information so its hard to tell what some of the files in it are, but I can check and see if it's been programmed before. There may be some changes in the software that improve certain emission characteristics, but you're probably right in taking it to a dealer to have it checked out. If there isn't anything mechanically wrong with the engine maybe Mack needs to come up with a new software fix.

The Daytime Running Lamp module is in the main fuse panel, top row, fourth position from the left (right next to the studs in the center of the panel). The fuses in the bunk should be the bunk fuses/breakers.

It sounds like you're headed in the right direction.

Congratulations and good luck. I hope this helps, it may be a little hard to read. I don't have the relay assignments. Fuse Panel and Application.pdf

There are a few different bull gears. Regarding the CRD92/93 series and 112/113 (these are the same differentials except that the 112/113 has a coarser spline on the side gears that drive the axle), there are gears with 51, 52, 54, and 55 teeth. What Bollweevil is saying is correct. You need a carrier chart to determine which gears are compatible. By changing the tooth count on one gear it is possible to change the entire overall ratio. The Mack differential (I assumed this is what gumbie was referring to) is a dual reduction carrier. The first set of gears (the bevel pinion gears in the top of the differential) provide the initial reduction, the lower gear set made up of the spur shaft and the bull gear provide the second reduction. If the differential was a planetary differential, say an SR70/80 differential (manufactured by Renault) it would be necessary to also calculate the gear reduction provided by the hub units as well to calculate the overall differential gear ratio. Mike is right that the engine's torque curve as well as the transmissions gear ratio needs to be taken into account to achieve the best fuel economy. On a side note the CRD92/93 and CRD112/113 differentials are being taken out of production and are being replaced by the CRD150/151 series.

I've heard the information is suppossed to be released to dealers on an Impact DVD release also. I'm not sure how far back it will go or if it will be available to customers.

The gear ratio is made up of all of the gears. You need to count the teeth of all of the gears and calculate the ratio. For instance if the pinion gear has 16 teeth and the spur gear that it meshes with has 17 teeth, and the spur shaft has 16 teeth and the bull gear that it meshes with has 55 teeth calculate as follows: 17 divided by 16= 1.0625, 55 divided by 16= 3.4375. These numbers are then multiplied: 1.0625 times 3.4375= 3.65234375 or 3.65 final gear ratio

That's kind of what I thought, but I wasn't sure about their labor rate. It's hard to tell exactly what they are charging from the way the quote is put together. As far as the parts I think they gave a decent price on the cam but it looks like they made up for it with the labor for the engine brake.

Sorry QC, when I looked at this earlier I thought it said $754.00 parts and labor for the engine brake. They want $754.00 just in labor? Installing the parts in the brake housings (which is what it looks like the second part of the quote is for) should take about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Bring it to their attention and see what they'll do.

Good idea, at least if something's going to get torn up it won't be the Mack! Enjoy yourself.

The coolant might be coming from the thermostat housing to water manifold joint, possibly from hoses, so check your hose clamps. These engine run 16 psi coolant pressure and it sometimes causes leaks at hose connections that would normally seal at 10 psi. As for your noise check the small steel braided line going from the left side of the engine to the turbo actuator. This is the line that supplies air to make the actuator move in and out. If it has a hole in it it will leak air that should be going to the actuator and possibly be causing your noise. Check the line for kinks too. There is a small filter next to the oil filters, this is the air filter for the air going to the VGT Control valve which sends air to the turbo actuator.

In a CHN613 you should have an ASET AC (a variant of the E-Tech E7). Here are some places to check. Start by checking the exhaust manifold and turbo mounting very carefully. They are prone to breaking/loosening fasteners which causes the gaskets to burn out and will reduce boost pressure. Check all of the hoses on the pipes leading to and from the charge air cooler visually, as well as the gaskets on the intake manifold. They will be next to impossible to see, but you might find one that is blown out. You should pressurize the entire system and check for leaks with the turbo outlet plugged off. There is a small boost pressure relief valve on the venturi housing that connects to the exhaust pipe with a steel pipe. It could be damaged or not seating properly. There is an o-ring sealing the venturi to the intake manifold that could be damaged. I've never seen this happen but it probably has. Check the pipe from the EGR valve to the cooler in the area of the bellows as these sometimes break. I haven't seen it happen on one recently though.

I was mostly just trying to see if our parts man would call around to some butcher shops and grocery stores looking for mutton tallow, but only the edible kind. I thought it was funny anyway. I do the same thing with the hand soap for installing the bushings.

Absolutely right, especially with U-bolts. U-bolts are typically made from a softer steel that stretches as tightened in order to provide the proper clamp load when torqued to specification. Mack also recommends a mixture of white lead and oil as a lubricant while tightening U-bolts. It should be applid to the threads of the bolt, the contacting face of the nut, and to both sides of the washer. I use anti-sieze and 15w-40 as white lead is (as far as I know) not something typically found anymore. Mack also says the rubber two piece trunnion bushing should be lubricated with "edible mutton tallow". I tried ordering some once, my request was met by blank stares.

Heh heh... (to steal a phrase from Randyp) Bigen, this should answer most, if not all, of those questions. Just disregard the "fabulous" statement, I think it meant something different back then. (Kind of a long video, hope I don't get in trouble.)

I think it should have steel lifters installed from the factory but I'll have to check. Steel roller lifters look like steel (shiny metallic finish) while the ceramic lifters have a flat black appearance.

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The cam for those engines is the same. Mackpro68 and FJH have posted before about changing the key in the cam to advance the timing. Go back and look for their posts on the subject because if you're going to do it now would be the time. I think Mackpro also recommended a place called CAMCRAFT that regrinds and builds custom cams for less tahn a new OEM cam would cost. Make sure while it's apart that the valve rotators (if they are upper rotators) are checked for broken springs. The tiny coil springs inside the rotators fracture and break and eventually work down the pushrod holes in the cylinder head to the lifters and camshaft potentially causing lobe damage. Make sure they check all of the exhaust valve yoke adjusting screws to verify that none are worn below .940" (otherwise the guide pin in the head should be replaced). Have them replace these adjusting screws and update the jam nuts. The root problem here is usually the adjusting screws, which when worn cause valve yoke balance to degrade. This pitches the yoke over to the outboard side placing a bending load on the guide pin, which can fracture and break off, as well as the upper rotators. The uneven load on the rotator breaks the spring inside into very small pieces. Many times these appear on the drain plug as small "U" shaped pieces of wire about .030-.040" in diameter.

I went back and looked. I don't see an offset urethane replacement in Euclid or PAI. Mack may have one but I'm sure it's really high priced if they do. ATRO offers an offset polyurethane insulator. The part number is MA36000-OFF. It cross refrences to several competitor numbers most of which are rubber. We use ATRO insulators pretty regularly for various applications, they seem to last pretty well and they have a good selection. Their replacement saddle bushings for torque rods and Hendrickson suspensions are excellent because the bar saddle rotates freely in the polyurethane which means you won't have to align the bar pin when pressing it into the walking beam or torque rod. I'm not sure of the price on these offsets, they're probably not cheap but they're probably worth the price.

I've never seen them in urethane but I've never looked.

Something I meant to say earlier is that the fan can be set to engage with the engine brake in VMAC III programmable parameters.

It depends on if you use OEM or aftermarket vendor parts. You'll probably have to shop around. Here are some pictures of the trunnion setups from the Euclid parts manual so you can see the difference in them. Trunnion Type Comparison.pdf.

If the metal plates in the load cushions are exposed or there are marks on the buckets caused by contact with the "T" on th espring leaf it is time to replace your load cushions. This is not a difficult job but it does require some large tools. If the trunnion bushings (bushings on the suspension crossmember between the axles) are worn it gets much more complicated. Depending on the suspension rating the u-bolts will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" for the 34,000-46,000 lb suspensions. These tighten down to 1,100 lbft for the 1 1/8" and 1,500 lbft for the 1 1/4". These must be tightened down or you will break spring leafs when loaded. There are three different trunnion bushing types: brass/greasable, one piece encapsulated rubber trunnion bushing, and two piece rubber trunnion bushing. If you have the brass bushing or the one piece bushing they will have to be pressed in. Also the one piece pushing can sieze to the dead axle making removal very difficult. When installing new insulators I would recommend installing urethane replacements as they seem to last much better than the current standard rubber type supplied by Mack. I will find a picture of the different trunnion bushing types so you can figure out what you have.

Bigen, the manual you should be looking for is TS49407 Lubrication and Maintenance. I don't know who steals those things out of trucks but their always missing. The manual says maximum allowable engine speed is 2300 rpm in brake mode or normal power mode. I did some research on the Jake Brake's retarding power. Here's the link to the specification sheet on the model 690 that would have been on your E-tech: http://www.jakebrake.com/service/pdf2/024321.pdf. Basically it shows your retarding power vs. rpm. At 2100 rpm the Jake is retarding about 360-375 HP.