rhasler

Bigen, the owner's manual has several pages of information on the engine brake. It should be pages 2-31

Here is a shift knob piping diagram for the T2130 without compound neutralizing switch. This is the standard setup. T2130 Shift Knob Piping.pdf

According to Mack the retarding power for your engine brake (AC460P with Mack Powerleash engine brake) should be 420 HP at 2100 rpm

Is it a Mack transmission or is it a vendor transmission?

Somehow I knew it had crossed your mind!

There is this approach. I think Rowdy Rebel may have tried it in the past so check with him to see how it worked out.

It's probably a bad dash valve. This document from Bendix (http://www.bendixvrc.com/itemDisplay.asp?documentID=4572) explains the function of the dash valve. Basically the dash valve has a spring that causes the inside parts of the valve to move to the exhaust position when air pressure drops below a certain point. If your compressor was pumping oil for an extended amount of time that oil has made it through the air system to the valves and air chambers and will cause problems. The air compressor was probably the root of the problem and since you've replaced it you're done with a good part of the work. Do you have an air dryer on this truck? If the dryer cartridge is contaminated by oil it can come apart and send oilly debris through the system. Good luck.

With the spring brake released air is SUPPLIED to the chamber to hold off the spring. If the diaphragmm is ruptured it will allow holdoff air from the spring chamber to pass through to the service side of the chamber, which will exhaust through the quick release valve. This could be the cause of your slow build up time, but even if its not, you need to get it fixed.

I think part of the problem is that everyone is trying to reduce inventory of parts. Not only do the parts tie up capital, but you have to pay inventory taxes on it at the end of the year. Also, some of the parts are just not available. If a 2010 truck comes in for a warranty repair and the part takes an extra day to show up at the dealership it really throws off the work flow.

Just think, in another 29 years, when you have to change an air compressor on an MP8 in an old wore out GU, you'll look back at this and remember the good ole days. A leaking air chamber diaphragm will keep the compressor from building air. Remember, when appplying the spring brake you are not putting any air into the chamber. If you have the spring brake applied and it's leaking air out of the chamber you need to check further up line to find out what is supplying air to the chamber when the spring brake is set

That would be my suggestion. Take it to a dealership and have them get the most current software and datafiles enabled by Mack. You might have them check the programmed parameters to make sure everything is right. That shouldn't cost too much since no parts are involved. Did you buy it used? If so, did you change the application the truck is used in? A truck spec'd for highway service may not perform adequately for vocational use. Being an AI the truck should be set up for vocational applications, but people sometimes do strange things when spec'ing trucks.

Sounds like my parts department. The part number nut for the manifold I would use is 142GC35M. It is a spiralock thread with a serrated flange. These nuts are silver in color instead of the originals which were copper colored. You might want to check your invoice and make sure that the manifold gaskets you bought were part number 573GB257A (this number may change also, I'm not sure). These can be identified by the steel ring around the port opening. The newest ASET AC hardware will also fit but will probably cost more and I'm not sure that it would really be of much benefit on your engine. I haven't seen this hardware configuration cause much trouble on ASET AI engine when tightened per procedure. I usually tighten in torque sequence in stages: start at 25 lb. ft, then go to 50, 75, and 100 lb ft. Studs should prtrude from the head 1.75" in order to avoid contacting the pushrods. This will be difficult to measure with the manifold installed. There are stud removers available to remove the studs. The ones I use are Mac tools, but I think they're available at NAPA or CARQuest too. They will save you hours of labor removing studs. When installing new studs put a dab of silicone on the threads of the stud where it goes into the head to prevent oil leaks (Mackpro68 posted about this a week or so back). Apply anti-sieze to the turbo studs where they thread into the manifold. Apply a light coat of engine oil to the threads, flanges, washers, and mating surfaces of the parts prior to assembly. Attached is the torque sequence as well as a cross sectional view of the manifold and cylinder head explaining why the studs should prtorude 1.75". E-Tech Exhaust Manifold.pdf

According to Mack exhaust manifold and turbo mounting hardware are one time use items. On your engine the studs are 616GC245M4. I will have to check the number for the nut as I can't remember it at the moment. There are several revisions to the hardware, mostly for the ASET AC engines. There is also a Multi-layer turbo gasket that replaces the standard gasket. On E-tech/ASET engines the fuel lines should also be replaced (again, this is also a one time use item) and tightened following a specific torque procedure to prevent fuel spraying onto the exhaust manifold which can result in "thermal events". I haven't heard of this being a real problem on the E-tech's, mostly on the ASET AC engine. I'll get the number for the nuts for you.

Also check for built up dirt under the pedal that is keeping it slightly depressed. There are two brake light switches. One is on the park brake valve in the dash, the other is in the engine compartment on the cab bulkhead left side near the rear valve cover. Either of these could be shorted or bad.

There is new software that you can have enabled for this problem. A Mack dealership will need to contact Mack and have step 12B software enabled for your chassis. They will then have to flash and reprogram the modules per Macks instructions.

Toe in on your axle should be .06" +/- .03" (1/16" +/- 1/32"), should be set closer to 0 if lightly loaded. Concerning your axle/spindle/steering levers, you may have a spindle from a Mack 14.6K installed in place of the original 12K spindle. It seems like this is the case as an 18K or 20K spindle uses a larger kingpin. I think the 12K and 14.6K both use the same axle beam with the main difference being that the springs for the 14.6K axle are heavier. I'm not sure if the steering levers for the two axles are the same, if they are not then you should be able to remove the levers from the original spindle and install them to the replacement spindle. Part of your tire wear problem may be associated with the bearing failure that you experienced. A loose or worn bearing will allow the camber on the wheel to change and will result in much the same wear pattern that would be seen with worn kingpins. And by the way, that is quite a fine looking truck especially considering that it appears to have been a standard fleet type of spec when built.

Good idea.

Mack had a saftey campaign a few years back in which the steer axle wheel bearings that were installed at the factory had the incorrect taper which resulted in the bearings not being seated against the back of the spindle (the same thing can happen when installing a HM516449C inner rear wheel bearing on a stamped steel rear axle housing instead of an HM516449A). The bearing had to be heated, in some cases, for it to be removed. Their instruction was to "hot spot" the bearing race after cutting the cage off, followed by tapping the race in order to remove it. Later model spindles feature a heat shrink wear ring for the wheel seal to ride on. It must be heated both to remove and install it. That being said, if the mechanic that heated the parts, assuming he was well versed in what he was doing, thought it was unusable it is probably best to follow his judgement. After viewing your photos the threads on the spindle appear to be damaged (note the flat spots and chipped crests on the threads). In regards to the replacement spindle you should check that the steering lever for the draglink is the same as the one from the original spindle. Slight variations in angle, length, etc. can cause a wide range of problems in the steering system. A draglink that is too long or too short can cause the steering gear to be off center, resulting in a pull to one side as the gear attempts to return to it's high point, tire wear, and erratic steering. If you notice that after installing the new spindle that the steering wheel is now cocked one direction or the other that is an indictation that something is amiss. Brakes and steering are the two things that you must maintain before all others, they are not something to short cut.

Happpy Birthday, but please, PLEASE, whatever you do, don't post any of those picture of yourself running the backhoe in your birthday suit. I don't think any of us would recover after seeing you sweaty, naked, and fly-bitten

If I remember correctly the ABS module has a label that will say what version it is. For your year model Meritor/Wabco version D was popular (it may have been the standard configuration for ABS). Dirt, rocks, leaking wheel seals and the like can bump the sensor and cause it to lose contact with the tone ring on the hub. Another area to check would be the wiring going to the sensor where it is tied to the air hose going to the brake chamber and where it is tied to the S-cam bracket.

Those readings look ok. Do you have an active fault? Is the EML (lightning bolt) on?

Assuming you have Meritor Wabco Version D or E ABS a 4-4 blink code is for the driver's side rear axle wheel speed sensor.

Mack Dealers have to use a computer program called Premium Tech Tool that is available to customers. The program has an application inside it called Guided Diagnostics to troubleshoot various problems. As far as paper literature is concerned there is not much available to customers. The online manual linked to earlier is a free download from Mack and may help if you're having a problem with a US07 truck.

Go here: http://www.macktrucks.com/default.aspx?pageid=2091 and find 8-218 2007 Emissions Standard Fault Code Manual

But how many hours on it? That has to be wrong.