rhasler

I was going to do this earlier but I forgot until reading B67 Bulldog's post so here it is: HAPPY FATHER'S DAY ALL YOU MOTHERS! Seriously though, happy father's day

What exactly are you looking for? Do you need to know which fuse goes where, or do you need to know what each fuse is for? There are a couple of different fuse panels, a chassis serial number will help us find what you need.

It sounds like you already know this, but it can't hurt to check. The valves should be adjusted cold (temperature stabilized below 100 degrees) and static (engine stopped) in firing order 153624. Valves are adjusted at 30 degress after TDC. Make sure to use the correct valve set marks on the flywheel. It will take two complete revolutions of the engine to adjust all of the valves. Intake valve lash is .016" exhaust is .024". Later camshafts (1996 and later I believe) had different valve settings for the exhaust valves. The exhaust valves on the later cams were adjusted to .028".

I was wrong. It was 551 chassis and I think most of them were campaigned due to aux. axles installed after the trucks were manufactured. When Mack sells these trucks to outfitters like Schwing it seems like they would realize what it was going to be used for.

There was a campaign several years ago that covered maybe a dozen trucks in the world. They were built with insuffucent spring brake systems. One of the trucks was in our area and it was a pump unit. The truck was so big that it wouldn't fit in the shop. It seems like that would have been indication enough to Mack that 30" spring chambers weren't big enough. If I recall correctly all four chambers had to be replaced with 30/36 chambers. You're right about the way these things are spec'd, they always seem too light.

The info from Jacobs Vehicle Systems is all there really is as far as the Jake is concerned. The valve adjustment procedure should be in your owner's manual. Key things to watch for are that you properly torque all fastners, especially the valve yoke (aka the crosshead or valve bridge) to the proper torque. Do not apply torque to the valve yoke nut while on the head unless you hold it still with a wrench (that way the valve stems do not get bent-you definetly don't want that). I would replace the exhaust valve yoke adjusting screws to insure they are the current and much higher quality screws. Update the nuts for the valve yokes to the 142GC242 flange jam nuts and tighten to 33 lb ft. Update the intake valve adjusting screw jam nuts to 142GC243 nuts and torque to 40 lb ft. Do not over torque the exhaust valve adjusting screw jam nuts, tighten them to 40 lb ft. also-if overtightened thay can break/split resulting in excess valve lash when the screw begins to loosen off. Make sure you have the right tools before tearing into the Jake. You need some way to compress the slave piston spring, Jake makes a tool for this, but I can't see spending the money to only use it once or twice. You will also need a small pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap rings. I would suggest getting the overhaul kit prior to tear down so you can determine which tools you will need to buy/borrow.

4-9 is for the EGR valve. 5-8 and 5-9 are for the mass flow sensors. The VMAC III manual doesn't say these will derate the enging when set and I can't remember if they do. I suspect that when the faults set normally the engine ecu has no idea how much EGR is going into the engine so it starts actuating the valve, this causes all kinds of weird engine behavior due to increases in EGR gas introduced into the cylinders. With the plate installed I think it (the engine ecu) is doing the same thing, but since the valve is blocked off the gas can't get back to the cylinders. This also helps explain a modest power boost, since the valve is closed off there is more exhaust gas pressure in the manifold causing the turbo to spin faster. Of course this is all hypothetical and it still doesn't explain why you have no codes set.

Mack Product Improvement Campaign PI0550 paid 1.2 hours, but did not require the same amount of disassembly. I would guess somewhere in the range of 3-4 hours to rebuild both housings and adjust the valve yokes, valves, and engine brake settings if you are reasonably comfortable with making those adjustments.

It souns like you've been down this road before.

I guess that means if it is broke don't fix it. That's a pretty big increase.

I've read your other posts about this and can't figure out why it would work unless your mass air flow tube had bad sensors in it that were feeding the mass flow ecm bad information. Maybe you got lucky and got some parts that were "bad" in just the right way!

Glad you got it working. There are a number of things that could cause your wiring to overheat. Loose connections at a ground will cause this to happen because it increase the resistance in the circuit.

Here is the information from the service bulletin I mentioned earlier. I don't know how well this works as I have not put a windshield in in quite some time. This is Mack Trucks prescribed method for windshield installation in these chassis. Also, follow Rob's advice and make sure all of the parts are clean and rust free before starting. SB 631-001.pdf

SB 631-001 describes the method used for installing windshields in MRU, LEU, RD, RB, DM, DMM, LE, and MR chassis. I will see if I have a copy to post.

No Problem. Air Conditioning Diagram.pdf

Here is a diagram for a CH/CL from 2000 without APADS diagnostic module. This is most likely the way your truck is wired. If you follow the wiring from the A/C compressor back you will see that it goes through the HVAC panel. On the diagram, to the left of the blower motor, there is an item that is not labeled. This is the freeze switch (aka thermocouple). It opens and closes depending on the temperature of the evaporator core in order to cycle the compressor clutch in and out so as to keep the system from freezing up. If it is open all the time the compressor clutch will not recieve power from fuse 28. The freeze switch is located in the HVAC panel behind the controls. There should be a long flexible shaft on the end of the switch that is pushed into the evaporator core. Air Conditioning Diagram.pdf

While you're under the truck check all of the torque rod bolts, especially where they mount to the side of the frame rail. I Believe the transverse torque rod is used on suspensions heavier than 38,000 lbs. The bolts will become loose over time and can result in cracks to the frame rail. This in turn can cause the bolts inside the carrier housing to stretch resulting in leaks at the axle housing flange.

If they are Mack rears (top loaded carriers) the model and ratio are stamped or matrix printed on the right side of the carrier. It is on the flat area on the passenger side of the carrier.

If it's leaking on the driver's side it is probably coming from the mating surface between the carrier & the housing. The cover you refer to has to be removed , there are two bolts inside the carrier housing. Check these and hopefully your axle housing isn't cracked

Generally the newer the truck, the more that light is on. Sometimes it's something small, sometimes it's something big.

Do you mean the lightning bolt? That is the electronic malfunction light, like a check engine light, but not specifically related to the engine.

2002 emissions certification started at this time. An E7 is a Mack engine with 728 CID. As such, there are several "subcatgories" of the E7. A CH 613 manufactured in 2003 might have either the ASET AC (still an E7) or the E-Tech CCRS (also an E7). I'm guessing that it probably is an ASET AC. If it is, and you're still thinking of buying it, check the exhaust manifold and turbo for leaks (check carefully for soot at the #3 and #4 exhaust ports on the head). Check with the seller and find out if the manifold studs, exhaust manifold, and turbo have been replaced.

One of our customers is in the process of replacing a set right now. According to the newest KSA the kit is the 301SQ53, but supposedly this fits all of the FXL axles from 12,000 to 23,000 lbs. I remembered reading this recently, so I checked on the Stemco Kaiser website but didn't find a kit before loosing my internet connection. Did your parts department find a kit?

I can't really say I know what you mean, but I have a pretty good idea. Do you compete with Inland KW?

The certification year for your engine (if original) is 2001. The original engine serial number is 1A0831. The 4559-31180 is listed in the bulletin under tune up kits. It covers all three versions of the brake assembly. That price does seem high, but its been awhile since I priced one.