rhasler

So you're saying that yellow stuff isn't paint at all, it's yellow cake uranium? Holy Toledo, no wonder the line was leaking coolant!

You can make the Jake work by wiring it as you have said, you can make it work correctly by having a dealer make the necessary software changes and reprogram the ecu. The E-Tech exhaust yokes should be the same for Jake brake/non-brake pinned exhaust applications. Install the current yoke adjusting screws which are longer wearing than the original parts were. You need to check the valve yoke guide pins. If you have floating exhaust yokes and the heads aren't drilled for the guide pins (not likely to happen, but possible if a head has been replaced in the past) you'll be changing the head(s) so you can install the brake. If your heads do have pins installed in the cylinder head you'll need to make sure they are in good shape, I would suggest changing them out, if possible, with the Powerleash guide pins, which are more durable. Make sure that the yokes are balanced correctly, if not it can cause the guide pin to bend and eventually break. Also install replace the valve yoke adjusting screw jam nuts and the valve adjusting screw jam nuts with the flanged nuts.

Some type of Dodge pickup truck. On the other side of the Mack I believe is an R series International.

I'm not sure what the deal was with it. I'm thinking maybe it was an oilfield truck that was modified. The frame rails were kind of rough looking, like it may have had a winch bed or something attached to it. Wish someone would have been around to interrogate. Sad thing about the show was that I saw more classic R models on my way to and from the show than there were trucks on display. This was only the seventh annual show, so hopefully it will keep growing, maybe some of those Bulldogs will make it there one day!

Here's a White fire truck. There was a disproportionate number of White vehicles, I'm not complaining cuz it's still better than seeing nothing but Peterbilts, I just didn't realize they were so popular here. That's a big twin steer axle Kenworth parked on the other side of the fire truck. Here's a REO

A picture of some 1693 power for Rob Unfortunately it was installed in this instead of an RL Some V8 Caterpillar power on display too.

Stopped by the local ATHS show today. Despite early signs of rain this morning it looks like they had a pretty good turnout with trucks present from several states. There was a lone Mack LH there, no one seemed to be around to ask questions of, but I did snap a few pictures. Mack LH Picture of some brake hardware Inside the cab I'll get a few pictures of some of the other trucks up later.

Speaking of bulletproof, I'd say all the 107 series transmissions are. I've fished thrust washers out of the transmissions and had them drive out of the shop without repairs.

Trent, you may know that Mack no longer offers them from ReMack, but I think you can get them through Mascot still. Not sure on the price but I think they carry a warranty.

I added one just for good measure.

The special tool is Kent Moore J377720-A (might be a different letter at the end now). It's basically plastic rods with strong magnets glued to the ends and a set of large plastic clips. Pretty sure you could buy the parts needed to build a set at a hardware store for far less than Kent Moore wants for them.

My dad had that happen to him once when I was a kid, lucky he was wearing goggles cause it knocked the crap out of him, scattered wrenches across the yard where he was working. No permanent damage done thankfully.

I agree with Randy and Mark, Trent's first picture is my pick.

The way it's been going Monopoly money may be worth more in the long run.

Naw, I think Barry would probably ban him.

Zero major engine problems so far with the 2010 emissions MP8 engines, can't say about the 2010 MP7 as there are none in the area.

My best wishes to he and his family and will keep them in mind.

Likely still available from Mack.

So you're saying you're a typical Texan, right? heh heh.just kidding, youse guys are arright!

The stamping is towards the front of the pump and identified as PLE

Stay away from the air assist clutch cable. Besides costing a lot more initially and being more expensive to replace, it is routed in a way that makes servicing other items on the engine more difficult.

It kinda looks right but I'm not sure all those word bubbles and red lines belong there. Truthfully it's hard for me to tell by looking at the picture what line is what. I think it should be a # 8 (7/8" wrench) on the line from the tank to the primary inlet and a #8 line from the primary outlet to the transfer pump. The transfer pump outlet to the secondary inlet and the secondary outlet to the fuel pump inlet should be #6 (3/4" wrench) as is the return line to the tank. Basically larger lines are suction and primary filtration and smaller lines are pressure, secondary filtration, and fuel return to the tank. When I pull all of the lines loose, like if I were pulling an engine, I have matched sets of plugs and caps in the common sizes that I have number stamped that I use to keep all of the lines from getting mixed up.

the piping should proceed like this: Suction from tank to inlet on primary filter primary filter outlet to transfer pump inlet transfer pump outlet to secondary filter inlet secondary outlet to fuel pump overflow fitting on pump back to fuel tank This way the fuel is: A. receiving filtration prior to entering the fuel transfer pump which prevents the transfer pump from being damaged by debris picked up out of the tank B. receiving filtration after exiting the transfer pump which prevents any wear inside the transfer pump from being passed onto the fuel pump

Looks kinda like a truck and a sardine tin had a fight with some sort of bad-ass diesel powered can opener.

Possibly a damaged crank too.