leweymeister

Thanks for the replies. Im looking for cabs. Anyone know of anyone with one?

Thanks, I'll check them out.

So this dumptruck got put on its side on a soft shoulder. Wondering if anyone has any input on whether or not this a reparable injury for offroad use. It parallelogramed the cab slightly such that the driver's window is popped out in the top corner, but other than that the damage is all on the passenger side. Always a good idea to remember that end dumps can't side dump! Thanks.

Looking for a used CL700 Day cab. The truck has the E9 engine. Would like one with the dash/doors intact but am open to pretty much any option. Thanks

Looking for an E9 head... old one cracked and dropped a valve seat.

I have a 92 CL-700 with an E9-500. The engine brake works great when the engine isn't super warm, (i know, not the time to be running the jakes) but when it gets to normal operating temperature, it won't turn on. When I let off on the pedal, I can hear a buzzing coming from the dash but nothing happens. Occasionally if I leave it for a long time, the jake will eventually come on, but not always. If I leave the truck idling with the switch on, the jake will randomly come on and the engine will sound like a drowning water buffalo. It's a great truck other than that, leaves all our other ones in the dust, but I'm scared that I'm gonna end up with an unwanted hood ornament made by Ford, GM, or Chrysler if i can't get this brake working.

I have a e7-427 in my '96 CH-613. The Jake on it is total crap. Based on this thread, I want to try Lucas in it to help that... I live in Alaska and it gets freaking cold in the winter here. Does the Lucas make the oil super viscous in extreme cold? We run pan heaters and synthetic 5W-40, but at -20 things get awfully sticky. Any info would be welcome.

Cable could be the problem... Has the linkage been greased regularly?

Thanks guys, works like a charm.

We just got a CL with the E9-500 in it. Big ballsy engine on a big ballsy truck. I love it. It makes a little ticking sound when it idles, and I was told to do a valve adjustment on it. Easy enough, but having never worked on a V-8 before, i have no clue how the cylinders are numbered... I'd greatly appreciate any insight on the matter. Thanks a bunch.

It's leaking all around the pan where the gasket is. I can't tell if it's above or below the gasket. It's worse towards the rear of the engine.

I have a e7-427 in a '96 Ch613. It has one of those rubber vibration-damping oilpan gaskets. The oilpan started leaking through the gasket, so I got a new gasket and new rubber washers for the bolts and replaced it like they said, taking care to clean the heck out of everything and make sure it was dry. It got a little better, but still leaked. I tried it again... This time I reused the new gasket because the book says they're reusable... it was worse. Any tips or tricks? I thought of using some of that spray gasket-maker... just a thin layer to seal 'er up. Haven't tried it yet, wanted to see if anyone had a better idea. Thanx.

...turns out it was in the oilpan.

I was reinstalling the injection pump on my E7-427 and I dropped one of the washers into the timing cover. Is there any way to retrieve it without pulling the engine outa the truck.. I tried sticking magnets down there and all such things... no dice. I'm thinking of taking the oilpan off and seeing if I can get to the gears from underneath... Any suggestions?

I have a 96 Mack CH613 with a E7-427. From time to time, the speedo will all-of-a-sudden start reading exactly half the speed I'm going. It did it for a couple weeks, and then the problem went away for the most part, but occasionally it will just drop down to half-speed. There seems to be no rhyme nor reason to it. Any suggestions?

Also you should check your alcohol bottle for oil if that old compressor was dumping oil into the system, you don't want oil to be left in it and then keep being put through your system. For the truck to build to full air pressure in 3 minutes isn't that bad IMHO. I think the spec is that if it is a dual air system (with a primary and secondary tank) that it should build from 85 to 100 with the engine at operating rpm... so if your truck is getting from no pressure to operating pressure inside of 3 mins, it should be legal.

Well I figured it out... after I replaced the dash valve and that didn't do anything, I took off the line that was attatched to the exhaust port, and the thing worked like a charm. so I traced the line, and it turns out that the end of it had melted shut, I musta blown it against the exhaust manifold or something when I was washing it. But hey, I learned so much more about my truck. Thanx anyway for the replies.

That's for sure.

Well I replaced the relay valve with the R-14 and it still has the same problem. Might it be the dash valve that has issues? I replaced it last winter because the old one was leaking so I didn't think a new valve would be the problem but...

I have a truck that is very similar, with the maxitorque transmission. There is a reverse range, a low range, and a direct range. 5 gears per range. For most operations, you can just drive in direct or reverse, and shift the truck like a 5 speed. The low range tops out at maybe 30 mph, and I don't think you're even supposed to drive it more than first gear... If I have a really heavy load or am in soft stuff, sometimes I'll use low range to get started in first gear and then shift the range lever to direct on the fly. I know this is an old post but I figure'd I throw in my 2 cents. The diff switch on the dash is undoubtedly a power divider lock, as mentioned by the other people who replied to this.

I recently washed my dumptruck, it's an r66, early 80's vintage. When I was done I drove it home, and went to apply the parking brake, and it took forever to come on... the air just hissed out instead of blasting out the unloader like it is supposed to. I took out the unloader relay but couldn't find a number on it. It was all worn out and full of junk, and I have a Bendix r-14 sitting around in my shop. The it has the same ports, but the configuration is slightly different. Does anyone think it will work as long as I put the proper fittings in it? Also... do you think the valve is the problem?