b61fred

Hey guys, I was chasing down that thump noise that was heard through the air cleaner, adjusted the valves and all is well in that department, BUT.... I found this antifreeze puddle under the truck. I didn't think much about it because I figured it was loose hose, or the overflow from the radiator. I found it to be leaking from the weep hole on the pump. so.. I wanted to take it to the truck show at Spring mill this weekend, so I need a water pump NOW... I am going to find out if there is one anywhere that I can get.. If you guys can help I would be very thankfull.... Fred

Check with Rob on the parts, he knows where everything is located. Fred

The jacobs brake is fully compatible with the 237. They make 2 vlave and 4 vlave jakes for macks. The only thing different is the dia. of the valve stems. The install manual is downloadable from the TEC brake website. Fred

hi, sounds like you have the big dia. valve stems. I think the valve stems are .435 or .485 dia. measure the dia of the valve stems and see what they are. The tec brake company makes both sizes. I am needing some of the .435 dia "buttons" I have 4 of the larger size. Maybe we could trade or something? Fred

sounds like you might want a different trans... I have a triplex for sale Fred

I am going to a tractor and truck show (small show) at the Spring mill state park on that sunday. It is on sr60 just out of Mitchell Indiana, I'll bet It would be about 25 miles north and east of french lick... Don't gamble too much down there in the Casino.. HA ha.. if you are driving down, and had some room rob has some parts that need moved to my place from your area so I can started on his v12 engine, you guys need to together............ Fred

I will try and do a video, Rob is going to come over in a week or two. maybe I can talk him into playing camera man. That is if we can get both of our rageing fat-a$$es into the cab of a B model. I may need some pointers on how to load a video on to the site. As for your grinding, Try shifting with out the clutch and see what happens, It sould go in whe the RPM is right, or it should I guess?? Fred

Yep you have got it, as you go along you will find that you can speed the process up by using both hands. I find that the main will take a long time to "wind down" in RPM to be in the sweet spot to drop in to mesh with the next gear. The aux. will be ready to go into lo almost imediately. I have found as you are shifting the main into the next higher gear right about the time it is meshing into the gear you can slap that aux stick into lo and it will go in with a little practice. You have already noticed that it shifts different loaded and unloaded I bet. I think that the duplex is a hard trans to learn on due to the long drops in rpm between gears. I learned on a duplex and then drove a triplex and thought this triplex is great. Did I see your truck for sale in the WOT mag this last issue? I think it had a big brother b75 with it. I would like to have a b model dump truck myself. looking good and keep trying, in no time you will be an expert! Fred

hey Farmer Where in southern Indiana are you going? I live near Bloomington.... Fred

Hello, My b61 has a 237 with the old trd720 trans behind it, I have found that if I split the shifts the engine don't pull as hard. I think it will save the trans. I don't know for sure but it has worked well so far. As for your original question... The way I shift my truck is to start in 1st and lo, then hi. Then you should shift the main to 2nd, let the clutch out, this spins the input shaft of the auxiliery trans up to speed and then clutch and shift the aux. to lo. Repete this all the way through unless you have a overdrive then 4 th-hi, you shift to 5th and leave the aux in hi. To know if you have a overdrive front box, see if the number ends in 0, should be like trd7220 or 720 or if it still has the little trans trd670( i have seen these behind diesels) If you have any more problems maybe I could video my duplex like freightrain. Fred

I think you will be ok, It look very nice. I have found that if you are using the original non turbo engines with a muffler that you want to mount the muffler as far from the cab as posible. It will make some kind of low "droan" noise that will drive you nuts. It has something to do with that reverberation from the engine hitting the baffles in the muffler. The turbo eleminated this noise. Once again LOOKS GREAT!!! Morgan a.k.a. Fred

I got the 237 in the b61 and runs well, During the test drive I noticed that the engine would pull very strong in the top 3 gears accelerating. If I would stay into the throttle to long the engine would act as if it runs out of fuel. The fuel pump would catch up and the engine will run just fine. The engine sounds very strong. I am thinking that my fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump may be collapsed internally or deterorated. The hand pump has a leak on the top but when closed and clamped down there are no leaks. I have ordered a new areoquip hose to go to the tank ( 1/2 inch hose number 8). There is a huffing noise from the air cleaner while running also, I will run the valves after the engine has run a bit, This engine has sit for several years and the rack had sezied while siting, I used some penetrating oil on the rack and worked it back and forth to free it up. Is there any other things to look at or am I going down the right track? Thanks Fred

Is anyone coming from Pennsy. to this show? Packer needs a transmission brought from penn. to me at Louisville......... Don't let the Mack parts underground railroad down!! Fred

hi, as your number reads, The letter T in the serial number would mean it is a tractor... no T so it was not intended to be a tractor... but anything is possible.. It could have been built as a dump.. but with the light wieght components ( the L in the serial) I dont know how it would stand up to off road service, I have a few 75's and 73's that are light weight and have alum. spring hangers that have snaped off the frame from dump service. Fred

I will be there on friday... might see yea there.. Fred

I forgot about that, Would the frame mounts from a b75 or b73 work? the trans and engine sit back in the frame farther, could be a bolt on fix for your prob.

HI, The bellhousing for the newer engine is more than likely for a dual disk clutch, I have found that most of the newer engines are dual disc because of more torque, and they were a option on b model macks as well, You have two choices, 1-use the single disc clutch and bellhousing, This may not be a strong clutch, but are you going to pull heavy loads or is it a mostly bobtail or light load operation? 2 install the engine in the front mounts and move the trans mounts back on the frame, I don't know if the clutch linkage affected by this or not. Plus and minus of each.... single disc.. possible clutch slippage, but could slip the clutch to save the rest of the drive line from over tourque, no change in mounts, gearshifters and parking brake will be in the original location, clutch linkage will not be effected. --- dual disc. no clutch slippage-- have to redrill frame for trans mounts, clutch might be a pull type clutch instead of push-- could have some reconfigureing of the linkage. drive line failure if the rears and driveshaft are not up to the extra torque. I don't know whats best... I think the single disc would be much easer to install but I don't know if it will perform satisfactory for your aplication. Fred

Hi I have read many books about the history of Mack trucks from the beginnings in 1900, From my research I have found that all through Mack's history it has been bought and sold several times. About every time it is bought it's treated like a cash cow and milked dry, then sold to the next group. I agree that Volvo owning Mack sickens me but I believe that Mack truck will survive and to be sold to the next person, just as before. So have hope my brothers!!! the bulldog is a survivor!! Fred

Hi, The results form my e-bay purchase of 10, 4 inch mandrel bent elbows.... 3- 90 deg. 2 -30 deg and 5 -45 deg. Not all of them were a true 45 or 90 but sence I was welding a ehaust for scratch it turned out well. These were sent to my door for 25 bucks. I have a total of 60 bucks in 10 bends, and the gauge is good and thick too. I was happy with the deal. Search for 4 inch bends on e-bay, The guys name is fishnet sales. Fred

I found on E-bay a lot of 10 bends for 35 bucks, they are all different radius but 4 inch, I am going to see what I get, I figured If I can get 2 good ones I didn't get burned. Fred

Hi, Just fired up my 237 in the B-model, I now need some exhaust, I checked some places and a 4" 90 deg. elbow was almost 35 bucks. I thought this was a bit much but I don't know, Is there a place I can get this stuff cheaper from a catalog or mail order place? Fred

Got mine at Michaels and son In Worthington Indiana. Good guys!! 812-875-2550 Fred

hi, I have a bleeder screw extractor set, it has a rod that goes in the center of the bleeder and keeps it from collapsing and rounding off the nut. Works much better than it sounds. Fred

I have to have room for my truck chassis on the way home. I should have no problem with Robs engine and the truck from ft wayne to iowa. But cant haul two at a time east. I would have to make a second trip for the astro I go to Robs place alot any way, Rob and I usally get a hankern' for some barb-Q, we can usally take down a small hog by our selves.... So... That means I need a load from Bloomfield to Ft. Wyane, and From The Quad cities to Omaha..... Lets see what we can do.. I could take an engine, trans or ??? from west to east. Call or e-mail.. Fred

I purchased a truck chassis in Nebraska and I got to go get it. I will be empty on the way out. 32 ft goose neck trailer, could haul small items both ways. Would like to offset the fuel costs. I can go through Missouri or Iowa. Fred p.s. My trailer looks ALOT like the one in Robs pictures.