b61fred

I'be got my self in a project that I know little about. Someone else has removed the 431 gas engine and trans from this truck. The engine is pretty much junk. Add in the fact parts are almost non-existent for this engine. Has anyone here had any luck installing a "B" model 673?

For sale budd hubs and brake drums for a 44,000 lbs. rear axle. If interested PM me here, I will get a hold of you. $100.00 dollars.I have the hubs off and ready to be picked up, saved the wheel bearings also. Need to make room for new building. Fred p.s. 5 hole budd not for sale, It's just holding it up for now.

Sold!

Sold thank Turnbow!

Sold

I have a Tulsa Winch that I have no idea the size or capacity. I know its not a super large one I think its around 25,000 # but I have no idea. Condition is really unknown but appears all there. If you want pictures pm me. or numbers off the thing tell me what you need to know. $500 Fred

I have a cut-off from b61, I believe it to be a 44,000 pound unit. The axles are the two piece design. Has low gears in the 6.50 range. If you are looking for hubs to convert to budd wheels here it is. $750.00 pm me here Fred

I have a spare cab that is from a b61 mixer truck. It's from a diesel truck and has a few interior nick nacks left. No doors and roof is beat up, but otherwise no rust some cracks in floor where seat is bolted. Will provide pictures if any interest pm me ask for Fred $1000 or best offer

I have a spare cab that I am wanting to sell. No rust but lots of dents and the like. Has a "sunken" floor so it is for a B70 or B80 series truck. It is the B style cab. Pictures available on request if any interest. Cab shell only no doors, or glass. Any interior stuff left inside is bonus for you. $300. ask for Fred pm me if interested

Freightrain are going to Des Moines this year? I could take it with me. Morgan

I have a Jacobs brake that I removed from a 237, I would figure It needs o ring kit or rebuild. $650.00 O.B.O. Morgan

Yes I did, John Jones did the work for me. dead pedal problem?

Got the truck all together, and worked all the little bugs out and just drove it on our first road trip. The result, It runs great, the power is right there when you split shift, has a narrow power band but hits hard at 1600 to 2100. Drops like a rock under 1550. Uses so much less fuel than before and the old duplex seem to be much happier shifting than before. It also starts scary fast, I rebuilt the polarity switch and starter, that 24 volts twirls the 675 like nothing. Fred

Update... Got pump back Friday, I would have been much sooner but I was in an accident with a riding lawn mower rolled over on top of me and haven't felt like doing much till now. Installed the pump and started the engine today. Ran much better than before, scored an A-B timing light and set timing. The difference between settings is the springs that basically let the rack open to full fuel at a certain RPM. I am looking for the puff limiter valve that installs in the intake, my pump man says it will be better to not have the engine over fuel until turbo boost is available. The pump was very worn and I he gave me all the old stuff to show just how shot it was. I had to buy a lot of stuff to get it back to spec. and It cost about $1200 to get it done. I hope that I feel go enough to work on it some tomorrow and may get to take it for a spin. If so I will let you know how it works out. Morgan

Is this a tandem or single axle? I think you want the cast center spokes section, correct? I think I have a 5 spoke tandem 38000 lb

The handle from a 40's ford truck is an almost perfect match. you can get new ones from Dennis Carpenter.

I haven't got the bill just yet or the particulars. I will let you know what happens. On mine the governor was worn out, and changing the springs and weights to change to a thermodyne setting.

I have looked in the manuals and seen anywhere from 10 to 19 degrees. I would imagine that it was conservative to promote fewer warranty related problems. I will not load this truck hardly at all and will be using a pyrometer to drive by. So I am liking what you are saying. I read the manual about setting the timing by removing the delivery valve on 1# cyl and using air and a jar with fuel in it, I won't go into the details of the process here just yet but do you know what I am talking about. I don't have access to a A-B timing light and I would have to get close to assemble the truck to start it. Morgan

I am getting ready to install the injection pump. I was wondering how much advance to set the pump at? I was wondering what works best. I know there is a big difference on Cummins engines on horsepower and pump timing. Fred

When I worked on school busses back in the the day I always liked the Ford engine better than the Cummins or the Cat 3116. These engine were much more peppy than the others. You can do some pump work to the and really make the turbocharger sing. We had one driver I turned the pump up on that the old school bus would fly, well for a school bus. He told me it was to doggie going up hills in the country loaded. Next time I seen him he was gripping about having to clean off the soot the tail lights.

So.... After reading the book( Thanks Swishy) I see why it is hooked to the air brake valve. The injection rack requires full fuel to start the engine, after starting, the governor will pull the rack backwards. You would never start the engine without the air brakes set.... Unless you have a B model with a mechanical parking brake. This wouldn't be a problem since my truck looses all it's air pressure when it sits overnight, but going to fix that soon. I will have to run an air valve just so it will start, and a added bonus boost switch.

Went up to Delphi and scored a camshaft from b61mack (Ron Bogan). We checked out all his goodies and got a few more items I needed for my truck. Had a good time visiting and went out for a steak, don't get much better than that!

Updated earlier post with information Thank you!

So what makes these aneroid valves work? I would guess that the manifold pressure has to meet "x" psi before the rack on the pump would have full travel. I also guess that it gets it's air supply from the parking brake so it will have full rack travel while parked. I don't know why that would be a good thing but I need schooled about this. I want to keep the aneroid on my b model because I would like for it to not smoke like crazy but having a valve for those moments when you want more power would be neat.

So is the Thermodyne 250 the biggest engine for this pump or is the 315+ a Thermodyne also. I am pretty sure the 285hp. and 300 hp. versions are both Maxidynes. I don't know where the 350 fits in other than the intercooler setups. So lets look at this a little further and see what I come up with here is correct. Please reply with updated information and I will add or fix any discrepancies. Horsepower Turbocharged Intercooler Maxidyne or Thermodyne Notes 180 Hp no no Thermodyne 195 Hp no no Thermodyne Split manifold 205 Hp yes no Thermodyne B model turbocharged 225Hp yes no Thermodyne B model turbocharged 237 Hp yes no Maxidyne 250 Hp yes no Thermodyne 285 Hp yes yes Maxidyne Tip turbo fan 300 Hp yes yes Maxidyne Tip turbo fan 315 Hp yes yes Thermodyne Tip turbo fan 350 Hp yes yes Thermodyne Air to Air