Keffer inc

I just called to see what's new. They replaced that injector, still had misfire problems, so they are replacing the full set that they just put in earlier this week. I hope it gets running soon.

I'm still in Amarillo Tx, Friday they completed the cam, injectors, and dpf. We went for a test drive and it was still missing badly, maybe even worse. At first they were thinking maybe a valve was damaged inside the head. But Saturday a tech decided that it may have been a fault injector that they got. Haven't heard anything yet but I hope that's it. I've been at a hotel for a solid week now.

No way! I don't want an automatic. I have an eaton 10 spd. Everyone lovee that M drive but I still don't trust it. Give it a decade and then maybe I'll be I'll trust it. As for my truck, I haven't heard any news for a while so Im going over to see what's up this afternoon

I was wondering how badly I am stuck with thus truck but it sounds like I own it for life. It is what I want and set up as I wish. A little long on the wheel base for a tag axle would be nice but it's a good spec. It has to run good though with all this though.

I thought it was premature too, the truck only has 733,000 miles on it. I think it had 675,000 when. I bought it and I didn't idle it over nights. So abuse from the first owners? I think the first owners were in Ca.

Well it got worse, the cam shaft is ate up, all the lobes have at least a 1/4" groove dug through them. It's amazing the truck could function at all. Looking at $18,000 now to still do injectors, replace my bad dpf filter, and a new cam. I only paid $25,000 for that truck. This truck better run like a raped ape when it comes out.

So best case if all I need is a dpf cleaning, it is $1,300 or $3,400 if the DPF filter is wasted and needs to be replaced. Also they say the injectors are what need to be replaced so they said the bill all together is $8,500. And down time I should be back out of the shop by tomorrow night. Almost sounds too good, is it?

Can it unlock derate codes? Meaning like if the dpf clogs up and the ATS lockout happens, can that get rid of that? Also can it read fuel preasure if the truck can? 2011 mack

I'm going in the morning to at least fix the dpf. Would like to get home for the injectors so I can be with my family while I'm not working.

I forgot to say that the computer isn't showing any miss fire codes. Non for individual injectors and the for multiple cylinders. Neither codes come up?

What did that cost you?

My truck has always had a mild misfire and it got worse this week. Now it starts missing really bad at 1300 rpm. I've been trying everything else like egr preasure sensors, checking the tunes on the dpf diff sensor but I guess it's either bad cups or injectors, possible low fuel preasure? It used to normally act up at the 1500 rpm range and be intermittently missing. (Running rough for 60 seconds and smooth out for 120 seconds like it was an electronic malfunction. Also, the dpf has been going frequent regen and now wentry into limp mode. The warning (blue switch) went stright to blinking and later the red shut off lamp started coming on intermittent and then ATS needs service came up. Not the way it was to work as the manual says. What do you guys think is going on with the miss? I'm assuming I'm running rich if the dpf is clogged. I also checked the dpf preasure sensor tube and they are clear. Bad sensor for the warnings not properly working??

Well, I hit the blower with a hammer and it works now? Maybe I didn't have a good ground on my tester. Guess in time that means I need a new blower.

Hey guys, I opened the dash where the controls are and checked that plug and I have no power going to the fan controller? I know where the fuses are under the cb, but no idea which one to look at. Anyone know? Also checked power at the fan, dead there too for what are now obvious reasons.

I've had several codes come on over time and they almost all go away on their own. Check your wiring for obvious thinks and keep rolling until you need to do a parked regen. Then I guess replace it then if I doesn't go away.

"Aftertreatment Hydrocarbon doser" Fmi 4: voltage is below or shorted circiut. Or ground is shorted. Possible symptoms are "regen not possible" check engine light and MIL light. It's says possible fixes are "check wire harness and/or replace doser.

I had both belts break this morning and got some belt shreds stuck in the fan clutch pulley stopping it from free spinning. I pulled the fan assembly out of the truck to get all the junk out so I can see its all gone. The question I have is, should it 100% free or is there supposed to be a little resistance? If I'm not mistaken I think it should be a little tough to spin by hand but i don't want to put it back on unless I'm confident it will last. Thanks

That's it though, I plugged it back in and code is gone. Now I need to find $5,000 for injectors.

LOL, Well now I feel stupid. I pulled the DRL relay because I didn't want to get pulled at scales if a light goes out. I plugged it in for a few minutes while looking for something wrong and the code was gone, I figured I did something else to "fix" the issue. As for the misfire, I guess the injectors are just old, 718,000 miles on them assuming they are original. Thanks for the help.

Vin 014634 model CXU613

I've got MID 144, PSID 40, FMI 4. According to the Mack help line, this is saying "Sensor Power Supply is showing low voltage" so I ask my truck experts, where do I look. I think this is what makes my truck act like it has a mid fire and then smooths out after 30 miles of driving. The truck ran pretty good Friday and turns out, that code was gone but came back again. Where should I look or what connection should I clean?

Mine is dead, thanks for sharing

Unplug the alarm? On my 99 ch, it was built into the cluster, but if taken apart, was able to be unplugged like you would a relay.

Fuel preasure good?

Did that new fuel pump fix your problem? How does one check the fuel pressure on a mp8? I have a 2011 mp8 455hp and at higher (1400 rpm and up or 60 mph +) I get a mid fire, if I'm empty, I can go about 30 miles and the misfire goes away, almost like something turned on or got powered up, but if Im loaded, it normally won't go away. I have changed the fuel filters with Mack filters, cleaned the plugs that go into the ecm. Thats all I've done so far. When I get home next weekend, I think ill look at the banjo bolt at the ecm fuel cooler and see if there is debris. Would checking preasure confirm clogging? Another theory is the injector plugs have oil contamination? I haven't pulled the valve cover off yet to know, but what you ya'll check?