j hancock

The paint is 35 years old and the truck may not have been stored in an ideal situation. My memory says that there were many paint problems in that era with various manufacturers because the EPA was "helping" with which products could be used in paint mixes.

That is going to take a LOT of Christmas wrapping paper!

An ENDTB676 is a Maxidyne with 283 (285) HP. Injector 736GB250AP7X is listed for an American Bosch pump and 736GB254P4X or 736GB321P1X for a Robert Bosch pump. Due to the age, you probably will have better luck dealing with an independent fuel injection shop to get parts. ESI engines have 2 filters and a 28 qt capacity oil pan. ESI Plus engines have 3 filters and a 51 qt capacity oil pan. The Maxidyne engine could be set up either way. Your injector number 736GB337P5 is showing it is for a Mack EM6 300L 4VH engine application.

A couple more RD dirt haulers.

What is your front axle number? It will be stamped on the right side near the spindle and start with FA. Depending on which one you have it will be .0005-.0020, .0015-.0070 or .0025-.0045.

Hmmmm....... that is unfortunate.

Truck and trailer look great!

I had a 1994 F150 FWD and it had a split drive axle on the front end and it never wore tires in a bad way. Also have had a short list of Super Duty's and haven't needed ball joints until 100,000. I do find it interesting that I have found the SD's with FWD/solid axles and leaf springs ride better than the SD's with coil front springs and FWD/solid axles. Never should have sold the 03 F250 because you could drive to CA and never have to get out to stretch your legs.

Excellent! Trucking in style!

Nice Score!

As of this thread, the Millionth Mack still belonged to Yarmouth Lumber and was still working. There are a couple of pictures scrolling through. http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/28685-overdrive-retro/?page=1

Those wheels are OK. That style was available and seen usually on western trucks.

To put it together will take a good bit of coin. If it is good sheet metal and solid frame rails, I would say $2,500-3,000. But hey, try to get it for less.

A little Chevy ready to make a rural delivery.

Take a sledgehammer and give the center of the axle shaft a good thunk. That should pop it. Because there is oil inside lubricating the bearings, there is usually a good coat of RTV or gasket shellac on the mating surfaces so it doesn't leak. Had a stubborn axle one time and resorted to using two small cold chisels to get the axle out.

The radiator grill/shell on the yellow (A cab) one sure looks more L model than A by its size/shape. Really the whole front clip looks big. Maybe it is an A model cab on a LF chassis? It may have started as a single drive and somebody made it into a tandem. With the exhaust through the hood, the owner was into customizing. I have the same production dates as you do indicating 52-53. Not sure about the Cummins being available. Think it would have been a Mack-Lanova diesel.

You are right. Perry's 611 and this one are consecutive numbers. #4890 and 4891. Three identical spec trucks were originally built for Trimount Bituminous and sold out of the Mack Branch in West Haven, CT. #4889 is currently unaccounted for.

Looks Good!

Nice! I am a little concerned though with how clean your shop is...?

This R model started out as a tractor and was born with an ENDT673C engine and a TRQ7220 Quadruplex transmission.

How does the crop look? Around here, lack of rain has really pinched a lot of farmers.

The chest patent number 87931 "long" ear dog goes from the 30's until 1979. After that the patent number was changed and the ears were made "short". Would have been used on all sort of Mack models such as A, B, C, L, F, R, U etc.

Joe D and John K had this over on the Brockway site. Little bit of nostalgia. Thanks! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVHNUvzr7ow

Welcome! Pictures please.

Check this link for a look at the shocks. http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/tutorials/article/202-houdaille-level-shock-rebuild/ Ebay will be a source for literature for the B and Hemming's Motor News for a steering wheel restoration shop. I had decent luck using an Eastwood steering wheel kit. If it is really bad, a restoration shop makes a new mold for the wheel and basically casts a new one around the wire core. The shock rod can be made from a piece of rod stock with threaded ends and put the rod ends back on if my memory is holding up. Checking with a speedometer shop should yield you a cable center or a brand new cable. Or measure the length you need and the Mack dealer should be able to get you one. Same style of cable was used in the R models etc.