j hancock

Probably coming in. That's way too many trees and hills for IA.

Probably calling the girls your pit crew wouldn't fly..... I suppose they could ride in the trailer?

Yes, the B73, 75 and 77 could receive the Mack L model cab instead of the standard B cab.

We won't tell.

360GB52M is a casting number. It seem to cross to either part number 316GC552M2X which is "long" with a multi rib pulley or 316GC551M3X which is "short" with a multi rib pulley plus a v belt pulley. It may cross to more?

Sorry, have the wrong answer for you. The B75 has a longer hood than the B61 so the 285 water pump could stay in place. Routing is pump to heater core back to the valve on the water manifold as pictured above. Heater? You only race during the summertime....

Either should be available. First thing to do is see what your rear axle ratio is now and what trans you have.

He's got a sense of humor! At least he put a price, most want the customer to guess what the price is and the location of the truck.

Send your VIN to the Mack Museum with a donation and they can get the build records for your truck which will say which transmission and rear end ratio the truck was built with. What is the current top speed? Two ways to go would be to get an overdrive transmission for the truck or to up the rear gear ratio.

Thought about it and remembered I had a switch on the shelf. The switch will have to come out of the dash. It took me several tries to do it sitting at the bench so I think in the truck would be a pain. So, after messing with it for a few minutes, this is what worked for me. Hopefully, your switch looks like this Mack 1MR3172P2. Using a paper clip or mini screwdriver, insert straightened end into hole in the switch body while the key is in the accessory position and push in toward the cylinder. There is a spring loaded brass collar that needs to be compressed. If the brass collar is fully depressed, it will allow you to gently pry with a mini screwdriver the cylinder out of the switch body.

The Clariben hood gives a distinctive look.

I haven't tried an ignition cylinder so no help there. There is a metal clip in the door jamb that retains the lock cylinder. Remove the clip with a screwdriver and pair of pliers. This should free up the cylinder so it will come out. There is a shaft between the cylinder and the actual lock/latch mechanism. Put your new cylinder in lining it up with the shaft and put the retaining clip back in the slot. This was on an 88 and I think it should be the same on the 99.

Hmmm.....I might "forget" to take the wrecker back.

Maybe. I remember seeing it off in the distance at the show and kept getting sidetracked visiting in the flea market and never got back to check it out.

I think that was at Star Speedway last year. Looks like a MA plate.

Yes, it was part of Kemp's collection.

Fire truck engine 250 HP. R611 truck.

A couple from the General.

I agree. The girl in the office had no idea the status of the the truck. I am going to check back when I'm that way again.

Dinner and a show. You can't beat that!

Jeeesh.... don't do that anymore.

I think that 20QL252P7 is the rod insulator and 20QL231P5 is the radiator lower tank mount. 12AX136F should be the number for the rubber hood material and 2RU139F is the hood welting for a Hayward built RW truck.