j hancock

I would pres. wash to get rid of the grease. Then use black beauty to blast them. A DA (to me) would take too much time and paper if really loaded with paint. Also, if blasted might reveal a hidden crack that the DA wouldn't. Jim

If I understand the story correctly, the Gerosa Mack which nows belongs to Marino Crane was a Cummins V-12 when built new. It then got repowered at some point. Maybe 600 HP straight six??? Also, I think that Marino's has a torque converter but has a couple of sticks to give it many gearing choices. Yup, hope this one stays here! Jim

The imported LTL is probably the one with the Hall-Scott engine. I like the looks of the Roo bars on the Superliner! Jim

I realize you want the numbers off the existing parts but here are some numbers that may help. Maybe they could help in crossing to get what you need in new parts. Slack 25QD21DP38 Chamber 19QE221P29 Type 20 maxi 5396-MA15772 Jim

Yup, good looking rig! Any idea how many V8 steel fenders models were made? Jim

Whatcha up to? Sending the B75 to summer camp?

Number 1. Electrical issues are a BITCH! Number 2. Electrical issues are a BITCH! Number 3. Intermittent electrical....anyways, you get the point. Start by checking ALL of the connections between the batteries and chassis/engine. Loose connections, corrosion at ANY connections, chaffing wire, pinched wire, etc. Proper grounding is ESSENTIAL! Repeat ESSENTIAL! Continue by looking at the harnesses that go into the cab . How much added electrical equipment has been added to the interior? It could be simple like a beginning to be faulty ignition switch or relay or ground. Best I can say at the moment, Jim

WAIT! Your wife is Jenny McCarthy? How is she in th.................? Sorry about that. I am confused because i thought your wife was Kate Upton? Boy, now I am really confused.

The movement should be almost nothing in my opinion. Had one that doing the "foot' test moved the driveshaft about an inch. Time for a new one. The rubber was just getting tired. The driveshaft on the truck in and out of the bearing were almost 5.5 feet long. I think it was starting a little whipping action. Jim

My test for the center bearing was to grab the driveshaft and see if I could shake it. Or put my foot on the driveshaft to check for movement. The ones I have are mounted in rubber. I figured that if I could get movement in the rubber by hand or foot than the torque of the spinning driveshaft could do the same. It is not a big deal to change. The shafts are a liitle heavy so having a helper or a couple of floor jacks will help. Chasing wobble, bounce or vibration is a bitch!

KoooL! Interesting find! I have only seen that combo in pictures. I would say pretty rare but not sure how much it would change the value. You would be the only one in the neighborhood with one! Not sure but I wonder if the Road Master was an early name for the Road Ranger. Reading a story in WOT a while back, it was mentioned that the early Fuller's would shift "up" well but almost impossible to go "down". Maybe after fixing the problem the name became Road Ranger? So, are you buying it or just window shopping? Have fun, Jim

The second letter relates to gvw. An EE was a 12,000 gvw and the EF was 14,000 gvw and the EG was 16,000. The 290 cid Continental was used in EF starting after 1945. I have had pretty good luck with the local NAPA store for most brake parts. They won't be looking anything up on their computer for this application. If you can bring in a sample of what you need they should be able to match it up. In that era, a one inch wheel cylinder was a one inch cylinder. Lots of parts would interchange back in the 40's. Jim

Problems that come and go SUCK! Wish I had the answer but will start throwing things out. Wheelbearing starting to go? Flat spotted tire? Belt separating in tire? I know all these should be "constant" but I did run into a problem with a wheelbearing that if it was loaded just right would show a problem then it would seem to run good. Jim

One cause that I have heard and thankfully never seen is pulling the seals out of the blower and the engine will run on crankcase oil. Don't know if true but sounds plausible. On a 6-71 thats about 44 qts of oil or 11 gallons of potential run away FUN!!! Jim

Bronze trunion adjustment for SWS59 (new SS65C-W) bogie is shown as 0.010- 0.015 gap. Approx. one sixth to one half turn back. Torque for clamping bolt and nut is listed as 120-130. On SWS68 (new SS50C or SS58C) and SWS571 (new SS441C) bronze trunion gap is 0.010 - 0.020. All these seem to utilize the D washer. Can't seem to find torque on carrier bolts? Following values off standard torque chart. 9/16 grade 8 fine is 196-216 9/16 grade 8 course is 192-212 5/8 fine 268-296 5/8 course 244-270 Utilize cross pattern to tighten. I have used a locking compound on them. Jim

Insulator cap capscrew torgue limit info: 7/16 40-44 lbs. ft 1/2 61-68 1/2 stud 69-76 9/16 99-108 steel caps should be tightened till snug then bring them up to torque using an alternating pattern like doing a wheel. Forged aluminum caps should be done in a clockwise pattern to final torque. 7/8 X 9 capscrew 380-415 7/8 X 14 nut 345-375 recommended to go in stages 150, then 250 then to final Maybe this will help. Info from Mack TS 442 dated 1979. What style trunion do you have? Rubber?

That axle number is not listed in this book which is dated 1984 Mack Fax Volume 4, No. 5. Probably have to run that one by your local dealer or give Watts a call to see what they might have. You may be correct but I don't know for sure. Jim

Your Superliner is beautiful! Walked around it several times. A quick question about the hood. On one side it said econodyne but not the other. I haven't seen that before on a V8? Jim

I am not a tire expert.... OK got that out of the way. My understanding is that there are no tubeless replacements for 24" rubber. You could get bias or radial tube type tires for 24". 22.5" rubber is the tubeless replacement for 20" tube type rubber. 24.5" rubber is the tubeless replacement for 22" tube type rubber. If unsure of what rims and rubber you have, DO NOT MIX styles of tires and rims between tube type and tubeless when mounting. The result of an incorrect match up will be SERIOUS INJURY or DEATH!!! 1200R24 is just a bit bigger than 1100R24. BOTH would be a tube type radial construction tire utilizing a multi piece rim assembly. Jim

Mack front axle FA507, FA512, FA514, FA517 use king pin set 301SQ46B. FA505, FA511, FA534 use set 301SQ45A. FA522, FA523, FA532, FA536, W536, FA537, W537 use set 301SQ47CPI. Info for your Mack project or for cross reference. Jim

Restoration Specialties has the product. About $25.00 a sheet plus shipping. 814-467-9842 http://restorationspecialties.com/ Jim

DMO has Cummins in both the LTL and the LTH. The LTL had a Hall Scott in it when he bought it. It now has a supercharged Cummins in it as it was built brand new from Mack. The Hall Scott engine was put into a third LTL that he bought from Jack Frost. He then sold that truck to a fellow in Australia. Jim

The original part number for the hinge is 4QM12P23. It is NLA from Mack. It indeed was the same part on everything that used butterfly hoods from ED 1 ton trucks to the DM800. So, A's, B's, E's, L's, R's and DM need them. Just cut to length. I have found a Ford part 40-16632 from Mac's Ford parts that worked ok on an ED. It is 34 inches long. The shape is "off" a little tiny bit but so far the function and general look is ok. This hinge is not really the structure of the hood so I am going to experiment with welding two together to make a longer one for a B75. Its functions is to keep the two hood halves together. I haven't tried but have even thought of just taking two that make up the right length and just butt the two pcs between the end caps and it will be captured. Unless someone is really looking for the "gap" it will be pretty tough to spot. I hope Mack will tell Barry the maker at some point so another batch could be run. The part has been gone for about a year. The rolling tool for this part I doubt has been junked. We just need to find the company and get some raw stock flowing. Sheller Globe which made many cabs for Mack was in the Midwest so there is a shop somewhere out there that has it. After we get hood strips figured out, lets work on vent windows! Jim

If you are a DD fan and a Mack fan, I would offer the suggestion to get a R700 and put the V-12 in. The factory made a few. A V-12 in a B would require a stretched hood at a minimum. You would also need the cast aluminum radiator to have a chance in hell to get the width. So now you are custom making EVERYTHING!! Motor mounts, trans mounts, engineering a clutch linkage, relocating fuel tanks, upgrading to stiffer front springs. Lots of stuff to consider.

Too bad the conversation wasn't more positive for you. It may be like money in the bank but the number of people that have ability to make change on a purchase like this aren't on every street corner either. Time to keep tabs on it and maybe check back. Catch him on a day where your cash in hand looks better than the truck and all the "millionaires" who are waiting on it. Jim