Gmerrill0516

Patience, heat, PB blaster and add some patience. I like the ideas from 41chevy for sure. I've used heat with PB blaster like the candle concept and it appeared to work although was stinky and smokey...ventilation is a must. Don't breath that stuff particularly when it is 1/2 on fire...

I typically don't like blue at all but that truck wears it well! I like it a lot. Enjoy it. Send us some videos driving around or something...Truck porn!

I have the same question on rear brakes but I assume if I go to the Mack dealer they can help me out. The ones on mine now are cobbled up DOT magnets...Welded yokes to the can rod...They need an offset slack adjuster or some such thing. If you figure it out let me know and I'll be sure to do the same...good luck

Does that mean the Texas drought is over?

Lookin good Vin. Do you have the hood painted yet? What's left to do?

Thank you! Going out for dinner with the Mrs. and good friends...I still can't believe I'm kickin the crap out of 50 but My father laughs at me so I guess I'll be fine. Thanks again. Greg

Nice looking truck. Keep us posted on your project.

The snow took down hundreds of structures in the area this winter. I'm guessing someone felt that garage was going to be just fine...until it caved in.

I'd change it out rather than sink money into a less than ideal repair. Probably cheaper in the long run.

That's kinda gross! All true but Eewwww!

83 is impressive. I wonder how many shifts that takes and how long it tales for each gear on average. It must be quick.

That is cool stuff CWC. The history makes the truck come to life in a sense. Scan some of it and post it up here if you have the capability. IT would be cool to see. Thanks

Two tone is my vote.

A bulldog is smart enough to stand out on the front of the hood and look forward and thereby adding to the aesthetics...cats...not so much. Maybe you can get a long stick with a string and hang it out front to get him to look forward...worth a shot.

I'd verify everything else first before pulling the starter. Check that the other connections are good and measure voltage in the system. It is possible to get bad batteries at least in theory. The Solenoid should pull in with "authority" if it is working, lubricated and properly powered. The contacts could be pitted/dirty/corroded within the solenoid causing a lack of power to the starter. If it's wimpy change the solenoid and if all else fails you will have to dig in. I have no idea what is involved specifically on your truck. All obvious stuff I guess but worth a walk through to save the hassle of changning the whole thing. Let us know what you find. Greg

Might have one I can part with. Let me see if I can put my hands on it...would have to ship it of course. Greg

I love the proportion of the bg rubber with the rest of the truck like this. It's a excellent looking truck. I'd love ot have it.

What is the plan for the crane on the water? salvage operation or what? It must be tricky loading and operating a crane with riding the waves as a variable. I suppose somebody figured it all out.

IT sounds like you need some fire ants and a bunch of hornets, bees and wasps too. You have to have some stinging insects for fun. It keeps you sharp while you dodge them.

Not real appropriate guys. The rioting is just as wrong as the needless killing of that guy. I don;t like any of it but also don't appreciate racist jokes. I don't care to be associated with that. I don't know if there are any people of color on here but I'm embarrased. I don't think BMT and Barry want to be so associated either.

Wow Thailand! That is great. Please post some pictures for us to see what treasures you have. Welcome. Greg

Clean it off and get the seal part number and manufacturer off of it. Source a new one and then pry the sucker out of there and head it to the nearest trash can. The seal can be cross referenced to multiple manufacturers so getting one should be relatively easy. It is nearly impossible to get them out and reuse them and a leak will ruin your new linings for sure.

As long as the bearing is in good shape I'd guess any grease would be fine unless you plan on driving it coast to coast. DO NOT torque that nut to anything near 200 ft-lbs. You will damage the bearing and posibly the spindle and nut!!! You need to get it to escentially a zero lash condition and then back it off a little and lock it. 1/6 turn back when using a castle nut and cotter pin and 1/3 turn back when using a second nut to jam the first. The latter takes the force of the jamb nut into account and leaves adequate clearance for expansion under a heated condition. It shouldn't be loose so that it clunks and it should turn "freely" and not drag when done. I think the end play is valid as mentioned in the other forum. Find a big wrench you can use to turn it but again, no torque wrench and certainly not more than enough torque to snug the bearing...torquing that assembly will be a problem for all of the parts. If I had to put a number on it I would say maybe 20 ft-lbs but that is not how you do it...good and snug then back it off and turn the hub as you snug it up to make sure you fully seat the bearings into the races. Pack those bearings right and place some extra grease inside the hub at each bearing for good measure. You don't have to fill it.

That would be how I would want a DM if I had one. I love the big nose hanging out in front of the front end on that model. It looks tough as nails.

There should be a number stamped into the casting on the piece between the oil fill and the coil shown in the picture. It's right on top of the front of the houseing that contains the shaft driving the distributor and air compressor if it had one...It looks very much like my 707 but I do not know what a 501 looks like for sure. The exhaust manifold is done for...It may very well be STUCK beyond your desire to make it run. Good luck.