Gmerrill0516

That looks like new. I'd find a rougher looking one to use and leave it in the box. Clearly too nice to use....My father just had the carb for his John Deere GP (1935) redone. It wasn't as rough as this one was but it looks beautiful now. Those guys do great work.

In New England the DOT is watching the landscaping types who may tend to neglect small items like chains or the proper transport of gasoline to name a couple. What an idiot. One hard stop and that machine would be IN the cab. Must have a death wish. Some idiot dropped a backhoe on a car and killed a woman a few years back on 495. Where are cops when a real problem needs to be flushed out and stopped...I guess they can't catch all the morons. Greg

Gret picures. Thank you for posting. Really cool trucks. Greg

LJ with some funky air cleaner set up.

I'd be in the market if I had not found one. Someone will give you a fair price for it for sure. This is the right place...I'd say it doesn't have 24" rubber looking at the proportions in the pictures. The spokes look shorter than mine.

Would that have been a 707 powered unit? What would the drive line have been exactly? Was it permantly in all wheel drive? Was there a high/low range transfer case with maybe a five speed? I've not seen any literature on the NO other than what is in the Mack sanctioned picture book. The photo where it halls a large gun and sits next to a jeep with a mortar is cool...it looks massive as hell.

passenger door tag and on the fraim rail toward the back side of the front right tire in big numbers...

That should be restored for its historic significance and not to mention how awesome that truck is? I want one!!!!

What serial number is it? It's interesting the inside is red. I suppose someone could have painted it after the fact although that would have been a bit of work to mask everything off etc. Greg

Driving an LM and seeing an NO! Wow. That must make you smile from ear to ear! Those are two serious trucks. Thank you for the pictures. Greg

So broken springs? What was the final verdict? Greg

Perrdeeeee. Looking good!

A full serial number and pictures would be appreciated. Thanks Greg

Lots of ways to get there for sure. I admittedly run conservative as I've worked in overhead lifting and tend to follow the rules which are intended to give you a factor of safety (read that overkill factor) of 5.

I think a good deal of the mystique comes from the original power train in the old stuff. If it's just for play you could always put in more speed friendly gears, a different rear or a two speed to help out. It will be less able to move heavy stuff but if you aren't hauling it doesn't matter. I love a good 5.9 Cummins but not in a Mack. Just my opinion. Greg

Used to use a B-42 for transporting cord wood for winter with Dad 30+ years ago. Down hill with a tail wind we could hit 50. I'd plan on that and be surprised if it does better. Fuel consumption will be poor. You won't want to commute in it. The weight sounds about right. Fuel was cheap, roads didn't include 4 lane highways and they were built to last so they aren't lacking in steel. Still really cool and nice to occupy some free time. Do you own one? Post a picture if so. Thanks Greg

Steel pistons and gear driven timing are not new but this is encouraging. I'm curious to know what kind of relative economy it can achieve and how durable the unit is in reality. Thanks for the update. Greg

I made a plate that fit over each end cylinder when the heads were off. I used a 1/2" plate and bolts long enough to get more than one diameter of the bolt in length engaged with the threads. I drilled and tapped for a lifting eye in the middle of each cylinder and used the eye to hook the chain hooks to. When you tighten the bolts up (4-5 each side) you preload the casting and the bolts for proper load bearing. The force is distributed accross a larger area and stresses the block less. I used the head gasket for a template for the locations of the bolts and the cylinder for the lifting eye location. I think this is the way to go for a host of reasons. The lifting eyes (the LOAD RATED rotating and swiveling type) keep the bolts in tension and don't side load the casting excessively. DO NOT use hardware store stuff. It has to be rated (I'd use 5000# per side minimum) and this has to be forged raised letters/numbers in the eye OR a tag indicating the rating (a permanent tag). Anything else is a crap shoot and you stand to break something big and expensive including yourself. This method provides an engineered type of attachment and will not slip or break. Save the plates as anything with a similar bolt pattern can use them. It's a few bucks to invest but you can make the stuff yourself if you have the equipment. I also back up the plate at the lifting eye with a nut to lock the threads and ensure it stays tight. Lose bolts do not develop full lifting strenght either. Greg

Somewhat limited knowledge here but if the service brakes work, then setting the parking brakes should work as they do escentially the same thing but through the use of springs rather than the air on the diaphram. Are you sure your brakes are working all around? If the front brakes (service brakes only) are doing all of the work and you are not hauling heavy then that might be hiding a problem. Have you inspected the adjustment of all the slack adjusters all around yet? That is the prudent spot to start. I guess in theory if the maxis were not releasing air when you set the parking brake, then that would be another possible solution and a valve problem as you suggest. I'd look everything over asap. Get a friend to see if all the cans set visibly when you set the parking brake or not. There is typically a dump valve that opens when setting maxis too and perhapse that has failed in some way. You could chock the wheels, and dump most of the air by fanning the brakes (engine off) and see once the valves blow due to low pressure, you should set the parking brakes automatically....this could indicate if it is a control problem or a problem at the brakes themselves. If they still don't set with no air pressure in the system, you have more than valve issues. Good luck...hope this makes sense and helps a bit. Greg

55,000# rears.

Original horse power. Cool

I'll get back to it on Saturday and shoot some pictures. I think it is removed and blanked off. Recipie for disaster but it can be fixed I'm sure.

Sounds darn good for sitting all that time. The little guy will ALWAYS remember starting that truck on that day. Good memories there. On another note, is that a nest of red squires attached to your chin or one hell of a goatee? Scared me for a minute. Sorry...couldn't resist.

Right now our "Leaders" feel that they know best and can do whatever they want, however they want, and of course there are no polititions who can say hey, that's not legal! So we get what we deserve by electing people who seek not to govern on our behalf but rather because they know what is "best" for us. The failure to govern by the rule of LAW, pick and chose what to enforce or not etc., is a path to lawlessness, "redistribution" of wealth and many other wonderful things to come. Get ready to call each other comrad and know that personal property will be a thing of the past. Bread lines here we come! Enjoy

If it is the tube that comes up over the top of the compressor in the picture, mines gone! It isn't there at all...I've got to see if the hole is there or blocked up or what. The only fill port is in the top of the front valve cover too. Thanks guys. Greg