Rob

No sir; it is in the high pressure side of the system. If there is a cannister in the low pressure side, it is called an accululator but serves a different purpose. Some systems incorporate both.The receiver/dryer catches and filters any trash the compressor produces in the way of congealing oil, metallic particles, and by products from wear. It holds impurities in a filter bed to keep them from entering the condensor coil and circulating within the system hastening it's own demise. An accumlator is placed in the output of the evaporator to catch any liquid refrigerant that is not completely flashed to a gaseous state within the evaporator core. As we remember from basic physics a liquid cannot be compressed and to attempt to compress liquid refrigerant with the compressor will instantly render the valves scrap. Don't believe a word that randyp, or otherdog characters say bout not knowing nothing bout nothing. I learnt all I know from those guys. They be my idols. Rob

I'm right there with you.Rob

For ratings, I doubt it.Rob

The evaporator is the coil in the dash that the air blows through and becomes cold. The receiver/drier is something that should be replaced and never reused. The expansion valve is the aluminum block this is attached to the inlet of the evaporator. Remove these parts from the truck, (evaporator, condensor, expansion block) and clean/flush each independent of one another. Most "good" automotive parts stores will market a flush kit and they come with solvent. I like to use PAG 100 oil in conversions. No good way to check compressor without being installed. All a compressor does is compress the refrigerant to a higher level, and make it hot through the heat of compression. As long as it doesn't leak, or knock, it is probably good.Rob

Looks good and I don't blame you for postponing until something else is done. Rob

Now don't tell me you don't eat some good fish from a muddy river?Rob

Must be a very recent discontinued part. I ordered two last month from PAI. Had no problem getting them.Rob

Small world we live in.Uncle Rob

It is a fairly easy adjustment to control that "roll". Many just don't do it until there is problems with the overhead injection system. It is very common but not in a maintained unit.Rob

That combination is probably worth the money.Also, in the last photo, if that International carrier is not one of my old trucks, it is close to a duplicate. The one I had sold to a party in Dayton, OH. Rob

Meet Vinny, not "meat". That means something else totally.Uncle Rob

I get a lot from them too. More body and support than mechancal parts, but good to deal with.Rob

I put the scopes on the one back at the batch plant last week. Nice looking truck. Seen another over to the side which looked nice also. Didn't want to get out till I'd met up with you as didn't know if Jerred was there or not. Don't think anybody else knows me?12 speed back together yet? Rob

You do not have an orifice tube in your system. The system uses a mechanical expansion valve. It is the block with the circular top on it made of aluminum. One side of this block should be hot, and the other cold as this is the point of expansion in the system. It is the inlet to the evaporator core in the dash. When the system was converted to R-134A from R-12, was it flushed? Was the condenser removed from the truck and flushed independently? Was the receiver/dryer replaced? I've seen literally dozens of systems converted and they work great for a while, then either cease to funtion, or become marginal in operation.The PAG oil necessary for operation with R-134A is not compatible with the mineral oil used with R-12. Intermixing of the two will congeal forming restrictions in the system making it less than desirable in operation. This is prevelant in the bottom of the condensor, and evaporator, and at time plug the receiver/dryer. I suspect this is what's happening with yours. It will need to be broken down into pieces and flushed clean with a solvent made for this, (we used to use R-11) and reassembled, then start over with the charging process. The Sanden compressor you have is easy to flush be removing the plug in the side of the body. The receiver/dryer needs to go in the trash. The expansion valve can be cleaned with solvent. Both the condensor, and evaporator are best cleaned with an a/c kit specifically made for this purpose. When the system is converted right, then charged to an 11 degree superheat setting, it will give you a headache when it is running. Rob

This trailer had a combination of curved arm slack adjusters, and straight. Upon removal of the slacks from the trailer, all four of them were very loose in the worm drive(s). I purchased all new hardware except the cams which were not worn out for some reason. I had the original shoes relined with the exception of 1/2 of one wheel due to a bad core. It was therefore new. Also purchased new chambers to add spring brakes and an R12 valve, (I think) to control the brakes, (it did not originally have spring brakes). The drums were not bad but they were cut .015 to true them up. I also got new "Stemco" seals, and hubcaps as the axles use oil hubs. I did not replace the wheel bearings as they looked pretty good. The trailer goes for sandblast next week to get it cleaned up. I've got some welding, and a new king pin plate to install in the neck, and then will replank it with white oak boards. Thanks for all the help. Rob

Heard it both ways but no matter how you look at it, "Ya got it licked once you get past the smell".Rob

I'll bet. Stupidity will break anything. I'd be willing to wager you don't sell a lot of those parts to owner/operators however. We have the same scenarios here where the hired hands don't take care of equipment as they would rather be out of a job; But it's not their fault when they're fired.Rob

You're not a man till you get your "Red Wings".Uncle Rob

It is a cup with a hole in the bottom of it. After mixing and reducing the paint to be sprayed, you place this cup into the paint and with a stopwatch, time how long it takes the cup to empty. 17 to 21 seconds is very common for most automotive finishes, but your heavier based industrial enamels and such require different viscosities for correct flow out of the topcoat. This can also vary considerably with the type and size of spray equipment used. I always used one as there was no guesswork and it was a variable that needed eliminated.Rob

Can't say I've used much of their products myself with the exception of the "Hard Hat" series. I always used VM&P naptha to reduce it to 18 seconds in a #2 Jahn cup. This has always worked well for me but it's not an automotive finish. Rob

That would be a neat one to see working. Thanks for posting. Rob

Me too. It's a standard issue type thing. "Yard Jobs", smoke shows, power slides etc. was all the norm.Rob

Don't spin to the right for obvious reasons. Not bad to the left.Uncle Rob

Be careful where you squeeze!Rob

I've done that in near every single car, truck, van, tractor, on anything else I've ever owned. He didn't do any powersliding, which would have been the "icing on the cake". Uncle Rob