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Rob

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Rob

  1. Looks like fun!! I'd certainly would have, and have done it. Puts a smile on everybody's face everytime. Just one of the ways to enjoy the winter. The building looks like JP Chrome's place. Uncle Rob
  2. I've been through the process seven, or eight times and as long as the truck is legitimate, you will have no problems other than a couple hundred dollars additional cost(s) involved for the paperwork and investigation. Uncle Rob
  3. Have a "bill of sale" from your seller and the process starting is much easier. It is not necessary to have but the seach process is sped up considerable when the investigation starts from the DMV in your state.
  4. Think I still know how to paint...... Maybe learn a few new tricks also? Been looking at transferring to either Elgin, or Aurora as secondary technical support within the next couple years. Too young to "throw in the towel" but am eligible to retire by then. Rob
  5. Well, I'm prolly at that point too but in all honesty, (if possible) I still enjoy looking in my shop and see a bunch of long nose R models. They really don't even need to run, (they do) it's just something to talk about with the visitors which continue to be many. I'll be up in Elgin for more training in the next couple of weeks and will stop by. Rob
  6. As long as that truck is not stolen, nor legally "scrapped" and trying to be resold, you will not really have any problems. It is not an overnight thing however. Rob
  7. Alfred Gore's truck. It has "green" wheels, and it's on the internet, (his own invention). Rob
  8. And if you don't wind up with it Brad, I might be able to make so room down here for it. By the way, is the loft still open in the barn? If I buy another truck, I'll need it. Rob
  9. There is your/the problem. Acetone is a very fast evaporating solvent. It starts to evaporating as soon as it left the gun. I think they may have meant to use acetone for cleanup, not actual spray reduction. Rustoleum markets a reducer specifically for their products. Rob
  10. Don't think I've worked on anything that uses a filter in the return line to tank. If this is the case I'd think it is plumbed incorrectly. There should be a strainer in the tank, and a 100 mesh filter on the suction side of the hydraulic pump. From here the control valve is pressurized and then ported pressure is fed to your cylinder via the control valve. When the valve is in neutral position, discharge is routed back to tank through the control valve. Hydraulic presure is also dumped back to tank when the valve position is in the lower position. I don't think I've ever seen a filter in the return circuit myself. Rob
  11. Rob

    Obama Voter:

    Need I say more? Rob
  12. Coconut oil bio-diesel?Rob
  13. Do a test panel first for compatibility as I'm not 100% certain it will work.Rob
  14. Having been stationed in Norfolk, and escaping west any chance we could to camp I'd have to agree with you.Rob
  15. Don't that just piss you off? Man it has happened to me several times.Rob
  16. That one you live in is very nice but you have to go a bit west to escape.Rob
  17. I still have my unopened can of "Billy Beer" to!!Rob
  18. They run in gear oil and do not get dirty or sticky require cleaning. If you drop the driveshaft and pull the front drive yoke on the front rear, then pull the cover they are in there. These are called "plungers", and the cam operates against them forcing them into the "cage". These parts wear and are not servicable. They are also not really inexpensive to replace either.Rob
  19. 250 horse or thereabouts will push that truck just fine with a set of 4.42 or lower gearset.Rob
  20. They roll over by themselves south of the equator. Don't even require movement. It is a gravitational pull thing. Look at it like a toilet: you flush north of the equator, the water spins to the right. You flush south of the equator, the water spins to the left. Didn't take long for our aussie friends to discern they didn't need any of those things in Oz. Same principal and a toilet is an excellent comparison for those lopsided things. Rob
  21. It would drop some horsepower and torque. I don't know how much. If the fuel delivery rate were not recalibrated with removal of the charge air cooler the truck would smoke a lot at part throttle due to excess fuel delivery.Watch exhaust temps if this is the case. Rob
  22. A fuel injection shop could tell you by running the pump on a bench. There were some minute differences between a Maxidyne, and Thermodyne series governor setup that an experienced eye would know also.All 300's were turbocharged and used some sort of aftercooling. I didn't see anything in this engine compartment that looks like an aftercooler so that is where they may have come up with the 250 rating. Rob
  23. A lot of meters will pop their fuses if you apply voltage when the ohms scale is selected for a short period.Rob
  24. I don't think Rustoleum corp. makes a base/clear type of finish. It is all single stage meaning it should have gloss as applied. You prolly have a couple of options here. The first would be to sand the truck with 320 grit paper and repaint complete, or sand the truck with 1000 grit and use an acrylic enamel clearcoat over the existing paint. I really think repainting the truck would be less expensive as the automotive clearcoats are not inexpensive. Typically, lack of gloss is either from spraying the color too dry to not allow flowout of the film, or spraying with much too fast of solvent evaporation. With a very fast dry reducer used, humidity, or moisture entrapment can kill gloss on short order also. Using the industrial paint you have chosen it should have very good gloss but you need to be comfortable with spraying it as the film stays "open" for a long time. This means it runs easily. I like a .043 tip and about 45psi air cap pressure for this material. Rob
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