Rob

If it were me I'd swap to a T2090 which is a slip fit, (IIRC) if the driveline is the same.

Don't completely rule out other engines as well. I've installed a later electronic 5.9 Cummins engine into a B-42 chassis two years ago along with a Fuller RT-14609 transmission and it's worked well with a hydraulic clutch setup. A bit lighter on the steer axle to drive from less sprung weight, and a bunch more power than the original "Magnadyne" engine. I understand the rear axle has been changed and I've not seen the truck since, but I'm told it has very good "road manners" and plenty of power. The engine was brand new from Cummins and I think 325hp. The engine computer was mounted to the side of the engine and everything but fuel lines, battery power, and a couple small things were there so connection to make it run was about an hours work with the front sheet metal removed. Aluminum intercooler piping and boots were used to interconnect the cooling system to the original radiator with very few routing/mounting problems to overcome.

I think it depends how the oil cooler on the later engine is set up. I have a couple different variants with slightly different orientations to the mountings. The water pumps themselves will mount into any of the carriers it seems. Some oil coolers are mounted flat, some are at a rotated angle and take a different water pump and/or oil cooler adapter face to meet up with the oil cooler body. Examples: One of my engines is an ENDT-675, but I have no idea what it is originally from. Another is an ENDT-676 from a 76 R-686 and the oil coolers are different in their respective mountings, and orientation. The ENDT-676 engine is the ESI, where the ENDT-675 is not, and that may be a player also. To further add variables, the ENDT-675 engine has a water pump installed I've not seen otherwise, but is short enough to fit a B-61 application. Both my 57 B-61, and 58 B-61 (had/have respectively) their original water pumps and they differ although the original engines to their chassis. Neither of those have oil coolers. Both trucks have very complete maintenance logs and do list water pump rebuilds and dates within. Both trucks being one owner, (prior to me) were well cared for and documented is the information I'm drawing from.

I've done the same but not because money was tight. When I send "cores" in, that is what they are only good for. I took a set of shoes off the front of an R model and boiled them in hot water on the BBQ pit in the back yard to get the oil out of them after an inner wheel seal failed. Never did have another problem with that set through their service life.

If you could let me know your available part numbers for the B series as I've got a couple of later model install projects coming forward. Thanks, Rob

New to me is new enough to run. Rob

I too remember this spell very well in Springfield, IL where I was as a young man. Almost two weeks without power and snow almost to the eaves of the house from drifts. Just a couple of months prior I had purchased a 2500W recoil start B&S generator from the then new Grainger supply and I rigged it into the house as nobody had power. That thing ran for almost two straight weeks with being shut down once per day only to check oil. We had a waiting line for people to use the washing machine as the time dragged on. Didn't have enough power to run anything ancillary but the furnace, gas dryer, and refrigerator kept going with judicious use of electrical demand. Unplugging the refrigerator allowed clothing to be washed. We buried frozen food in the yard below the snow cover as didn't have enough juice to run it also. And we lived to tell the story. Still have the little generator too. Rob

There are three or four different water pumps used with the B series on 673 engines. Most differences were porting for coolant flow but if your original engine did not have an oil cooler it's water pump will not work with the ENDT-675 series without extensive modifications to the oil cooler pack front housing. You need to acquire a later version water pump. I have one with a bad casting at the shop and can get you a part number if needed to research. The correct pump is a direct fit for installing the later engine into the earlier chassis. I have an E6-350 in my B-61 using a water pump originally for a 1964 B-61 w/711 engine and going to run twin electric cooling fans rather than mechanical for both modulated, and quieter operation. Rob

That and the "scrapping frenzy" that went on a few years ago when prices were up has really depleted used and rebuildable parts available to keep older trucks operational.

When I had the heads off my turbocharged 711 engine I had the machine shop install new seals and I think they came from Perfect Circle; but it's been quite some time since and I could be incorrect.

I've used these guys over a dozen times through the years with great service and turnaround times: http://www.waterpumpkit.com/ Cost is usually just over a hundred but I've never had a problem with their work. I had sent one in for my 64 B-61 and the casting was bad. They had one charging me $10.00 for it. I'm sending the water pump from my 57 Hobart Bros. welder to them later this week as it's taken to leaking from the weep hole.

Trying to remember the name that truck had when one of the prior owner's restored it a while back. It was "Little" something. Lot of money put into it then also but a cute little truck and I hope it serves you well. Rob

Really pleased to hear positive on the RoadMaster series of tires. Up to this point I'd really heard little about them and what was related was negative. I always had good service with their automotive tires and really would like to reinvigorate my relationship with my prior wholesaler. You run them on the steers and drives? Getting ready to bring my B-61 back out and it needs the 10.00R-22 radial tires replaced citing age. They are actually new and have never been out of the shop having just about 24 feet on them, but right at 20 years old now.

You really should replace that ground cable right from the starter motor housing to a clean and bare spot on the frame, then paint over the connection to keep it corrosion free. Even better yet run directly to the negative battery terminal via a "flag" terminal, or direct termination. Inrush current on a cold start can top 1200A until the engine gets to spinning and then decays rapidly. However this inrush current needs the least resistant path, (electrically) for efficient electron flow. This is where heavy gauge cable, (2/0AWG minimum) is a large player. If this cable is missing or compromised severely, the inrush current travels through the frame of the truck to the engine which is bonded marginally to the frame via it's mounts. Lots of resistance to electron flow here which causes rapid heating of components shortening their lifespan. If you heater blower motor is shutting down after a few minutes of operation ensure the heater coil, (core) is clean, and the motor itself is lubricated. The motor requires airflow over itself from the outside to cool and if the airflow is impeded, it can shut down temporarily till it cools. I'd remove the motor and while holding it in your hand, spin the squirrel cage with the other hand. If it is not freewheel turning, it is most likely binding in it's bronze end bearings when warm. You can usually tell this symptom by touching the motor housing just after is shuts down and it will be HOT. This is usually caused by the oil gone away from the "OilLite" bearing bronze bushings pressed into the end bells of the motor. Some you can take apart and relubricate with SAE30 oil, some require replacement. I'm still wet behind the ears however, so all that is just a guess. Rob

This truck has always had a "tall" stance as do my RL700 series trucks. Glad to hear your favorable review of the Cooper Roadmaster series of tires. A couple of parties I know whom ran them were not happy with their service; but as with any story, the "whole" story is not revealed. I sold and installed Cooper tires for many years when in business. I never had tire problems but those were in automotive tire sizes. I purchased "Automann" branded aluminum ball seat "Budd" rims from the local truck supply place as they say they have sold many and none returned. Just about half the price of Alcoa, or Accuride in the same 8.25X24.5 size with my shop account. Reflecting back onto the wheels display, I'm going to send the new wheels into the polish shop to have them brightened up further than production tolerances also. Aluminum tanks will also be done at the same time.

Thanks again. We'll get together sometime but I'll be through there during the normal working hours and my son has no place close to park a large truck overnight so will be a quick visit. I'll run those current General tires out on the drives where if one explodes it will be contained within the fender as they are quite stout. Sectioned far too many R model hoods over the years from a steer tire shredding to run these. As mentioned tires look good, but are several years aged, so not wanting to run them on the steer axle. Finding the ball seat rims is getting difficult too..... Rob

Thanks Brad. Ordered a pair of these to be installed. https://commercial.firestone.com/en/truck-and-bus/product/fs820 Going to install new aluminum Budd rims and chrome bumper at the same time so when the truck comes out of repaint, (red) should "stand tall". Need to get to Rockford area shortly for a new farm tractor transfer. What days are you around as I may stop in. Need to visit grand daughters as this Covid bullshit has kept us sidelined. Thanks, Rob

I'm wanting to install new 11R-24.5 tires on my 1980 R model with 12K front axle to put the truck back into service. The current tires look good, (General Ameri-Steel) but are far too old to run. I always ran 14ply Firestone tires in the past on my rollback trucks and never had problems, but a couple tire places have stated the 16ply ratings are better? They certainly will carry more weight, but I'm not certain that is needed in this application which is grain hauling and lighter lowboy work being all local. I'm asking for opinions and experience in this arena and really will not be overweight, nor doing heavy hauling. Thanks, Rob

ARD 244-6, or ARD 238-6 from the looks of it. Depends on year but the 244 suspension was common in the early 1980's where the 238 was a later improvement to the 244. Tag was aluminum and usually riveted to left front hanger but didn't remain too long before corroding away.

Post up photos from the side and rear of the suspension and we'll get a start on identifying it. 40K on a tandem without a tag installed is asking for trouble operated on the roadways.

Happy new years guys and gals. Hope 2021 is a bit better than 2020 for all.

Nice to see the subject spoken of correctly: I am doing well; thanks for asking. Rob

https://d33wjekvz3zs1a.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Trump-2020-ad.mp4?_=1

1973 RL797LST: 1974 RL797LST: 1978 RL755LST: I kinda favor the Western trucks but do like the R795S quite well also:

I've seen it on an aircraft carrier and it's not pretty what it did to the side of an A6 Intruder and an aircraft tug. Amazing and through sheer afterburning power the F/A-18A was able to get back off the deck and survive. I can only imagine how a human being would fare. I've parted several cables over the years winching equipment and vehicles. You ALWAYS watch the cable and when it starts unraveling, (you can see this) get off the power. A watchful eye and head on a swivel will help keep you alive.