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Rob

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Rob

  1. Yellow cab, pink bed. Lime green stripes with rainbows on the doors. I like red, or silver dump beds myself. Rob
  2. I seen that tube last week myself and wondered what it was for. Rob
  3. Easy there boy. Yur gonna make ole randyp get stiff just thinkin about that scraper........ Rob
  4. They don't seem to know the engine under the hood neither. Sure looks like an ENDT865B to me rated at either 322, or 325 horse but they state 400........ I remember the dealership myself; wasn't impressed. Rob
  5. Nothing wrong with it and you compensate rightly by dumping the bags. The biggest drawback to air ride in soft ground is tractive effort and articulation of the drive axles. Air ride just doesn't keep the tires planted as well as springs either being Mack camelback, or Hendrickson. These have been proven time and time again to be superior to air ride in this application. You can't beat air ride on highway for the ride comfort and quality but I don't think it was ever designed for day in and day out dump truck usage in off road conditions. These of course are just my thoughts. Rob
  6. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-Mack-F-700-Cabover-3-Axle-Tractor-/110820956983?pt=Commercial_Trucks&hash=item19cd719b37 Prolly be a good one to have. Rob
  7. Yes they are embroidered into the material. I took vinyl that was to be the center top panel of the seat and had them embroider through the vinyl. I then stripped the seats and busted all the seams apart, traced them onto new vinyl, cut them out, and had "Momma" show me how to sew. I think I busted a dozen needles in the learning process. I did the same basic thing with the door cards. If'n I ever do it again I think I'll use just a little "lesser" quality vinyl cause this stuff, (Naugahyde brand) really was hard to work with given the sewing machine I borrowed which was about worn out. Send me the jacket, It wouldn't take very long to have the lady embroider it. Rob
  8. What has been stated is pretty much the same rule of thumb I follow with the exception of using isopropyl alcohol rather than denatured. Denatured alcohol is a very good product but can attack the finish on these newer generation autos and trucks. Isopropyl is much more neutral and will not attack them. The purpose of either solvent is that they readily remove surface oils and tend to "wick" oils contained within the plastic to the surface. Dishwashing, or car wash soap and water is the best place to start. After a thorough washing using a soft "natural bristle" brush and a soft terry cloth towel to scrub with, allow the surface to dry. As mentioned feather the best you can with fine grit sandpaper and water/dishsoap in a spray bottle to the area you are working with. Keep the surface wet as you sand to not allow the paint to "roll" from the surface due to leaching of entraped oils within the plastic. This is caused by heat and lessens the bond of paint to the substrate. After one is happy with their sanding, wipe the area clean at least twice with isopropyl alcohol again to remove any trace oils/contaminates. When dry spray the area with a plastic adhesion promoter with a light mist coat. Allow this to dry the recommended amount of time, and get it covered with your modified for plastic painting color without delay. Plastic paint is the same as automotive paint with a special base to allow it to adhere to plastic. The plastic adhesion promoter actually opens the pores on the plastic substrate enhancing adhesion of the topcoat. The whole subject of cleanliness cannot be overemphasized. It must be clean for satisfactory results. By the way, the isopropyl alcohol I refer to is 91% strength, not 70% that is much more common in the drugstores. Rob
  9. That is it. They are reactivating and modernizing the perimeter radars around the country thanks to 9/11/01. Rob
  10. Only got about 2.5 hours in the shop on this truck today. That was enough to get everything lower trimmed to fit and final aligned, then spot welded into place. I'll start to fit the roof panel tomorrow and that should go quite a bit easier as there really is no alignment to do. Just have to clamp on the body lines, (as before) and bead it in. The helper does really good with this part so I'll turn him loose once everything is clamped solid. Rob
  11. I don't know that as I've only heard it referred to as the radar site. Rob
  12. I may do a detail up there in the near future. There is a shut down radar facility and talk of reopening it. The type that is located there I have several years experience with. They are seriously wanting me knowing I can't freeze my balls off. Rob
  13. None taken and thanks. All in fun around here. Rob
  14. Tom Hribar always has one on ebay. I'll try to find it later tonight. As Matt asked, do you need single or dual holes for intake plumbing? Rob
  15. You must not know my history. I have five of em cause they are the most beautiful R models to ever grace the highways and backroads of gods green earth in my opinion. Rob
  16. Bullwinkle looking for Rocky? Rob
  17. I deal with this daily. Imagine putting a college educated electronics major with years of "schooling" who can't fix jack shit without a computer pointing to the suspected defective module, on a 60 plus year old inoperable radar, or power generation set. Usually it's some nickle dick piece of garbage that has failed, but this "new generation mentality" can't find the root cause until an old belligerant SOB like me comes along. What is wrong with this picture? "They" can pay this new generation of field technician less than 1/2 what I make without any prospect of acheiving the same level of compensation, yet expect the same level of performance. Using this mentality it is less expensive on the parts counter and distribution network to not pay for a knowlege base, but rather supply ready built sub modules for less parts handling at greater profit margin encompassing the possible problem area(s). But I could be wrong too. Rob
  18. They must be from a large company or the truck never sells. Know I've seen it listed over eight times as the first time I was bidding was over two years ago. Lot of hidden cost you don't know about during the auction(s). Rob
  19. Now WTF did you have to bring that back up??? Do you not have a clue just how few slices Rob & Kebob are from becoming "one in the same"????? Damned winch trucks anyway......... I might have to look into that. Don't know if Jay has enough room to get that inside to work with it as the truck seems to have a bit of length. Rob
  20. I thought I was getting hard or hearing. Rob
  21. Must be keenly aware of paternity. Rob
  22. Are the sheep just as scared there too? Rob
  23. Shaggin Sheep? They do that overseas too?????? Rob
  24. Got the rear window framework aligned and spotted in tonight. I had my helper do it twice and each time something was off, (character lines, pinch welds, etc) so cut it all free and sectioned/sleeved it in myself. Everything clamped very close to where it is supposed to be. These panels are the summation of three trucks with each built within manufacturing "tolerance" but each just a little different. Had to separate everything to bring back to a neutral plane. Tomorrow I will mark, grind clean, and weld it up solid. Getting to this point has been a bit of a challenge because the roof of the truck really needed replaced due to being distorted badly. Lot of stetching and shrinking in the roof panel to get the correct contour. Rob
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