Rob

I've never known anything but....... It has to be good. After all it did do a job a few years back. Rob

All right guys have fun!! Rob

That is why I insist all my junk have a place inside to rest, and not rust. Rob

Don't forget the Western 700's who paved the way for those. Rob

What was really funny about that whole situation is not only was it a family project cause we all worked on it, but I only mowed with it once. I had a brand new "Woods" RD7200 mower on the back and stopped mowing in the front yard at the shop for a break. A gent and his boy stopped after seeing the tractor setting there wanting to purchase it. Of course I told him no but he said, "I'll give you $10,000 for it today". This perked my ears up but I really didn't want to sell and I told him I'd think on it. He left his phone number and I agreed to call the next day. After talking with "Momma", and running the figures and labor I had in it, I thought if he really wants the tractor that bad, maybe he should have it. So we came up with a $12,000 price. I had repaired his daughter's minivan earlier and he was actually in the shop during the repair when I was gone. He had seen the tractor dissassembled in the shop and knew what was being done to it so we agreed on $11,500 and it went home with him. Uncomfortable as I was, it was too much money to turn down and it went to a very good home. His shed is actually a heated/insulated "Morton" building and is meticulously kept. There is probably 30 antique tractors in that building in various shades of restoration, and completed. A lot of them are "top notch" in quality. Rob

Yes, they are. My uncle with the 4020 has one that was a desk ornament in his bookshelf/display case. It stands about a foot tall on a little pedestal. I think this came from an old JI Case dealership when closed several years ago. That 530 had the "eagle on the globe" in the center of the steering wheel, (like a horn button) and on the sides of the hood. All three pieces were die cast and I had them rechromed. They were part of what made that tractor stand out. Of course block sanding all the panels flat, three coats of beige base, and three coats of clear block sanded flat and buffed went really well with the orange on the base tractor. The white rims were new aftermarket, as were the tires. This little tractor even had chrome hubcaps on the steer axle embossed "Case" which were also rechromed, then the lettering painted in red. I had purchased a NOS grille from a guy and this was orange and what I tinted the color to match on the base tractor. I got to quit talking about this tractor cause i'm kicking myself in the ass all over again for selling it which was one of my more stupid moves. Rob

Yes, JI Case was very popular in the midwest for many years. We don't have anything on gaseous fuels, only gasoline on the older tractors. I have another uncle with a LPG Deere but it is convertible and he only uses gasoline with it. The tank and vaporizer are still there but it's been so many years since it was ran, I don't know if it would still operate. I don't know what year Case started with live pto. My tractor was a 1969 model and the original owner purchased some sort of conversion kit to make it live if I remember right. He had purchased the tractor new and it was on there from day one. This one had a pretty good road gear also but I never left my property so it really wasn't used. I actually bought it to mow with and one of my farm tractor collector friends who has steam powered Case tractors/engines and older equipment, wanted it bad after seeing it reworked and pushed an offer I couldn't refuse. I know JI Case had a lot of older stuff that was all cast iron and man does that stuff command a high dollar at flea markets for he collector/restorer crowd. I'm not really into that but my uncles are. I just do the paint work for them but some of the tractor shows I've been to are some serious effort to make em right. Rob

We still have several "VA" series tracors in the family. Two "VAC" with row crop, two with wide front, and two "VAI" with industrial loaders. All are small by todays standards but run well and do what is asked of them which is nothing more than mowing, and feed lot. Rob

Shouldn't need to do anything with them to store. If they were in use, the lock rings are seated properly so they pose no hazzard. It is only when those lock rings are damaged, corroded, or misaligned during install do they pose a risk. Rob

I had a Case "530" I wish I'd kept. Had power steering, live hydraulics, live pto addition, wide front, and eagle hitch. Run like a top. I sold it to a guy that only takes it to tractor shows around the midwest after I had repainted and rechromed everything original. Rob

I'd make certain that pyrometer is accurate when you get the new parts installed. I've seen uprated engines fail due to trusted equipment not being correct. Rob

Anything is only worth what someone is willing to pay. If your pricing is too high, the item sits. It is then the true value is understood. That truck may sell for 1/2 of his asking price now. If the owner doesn't want to reduce on price there is no problem with that, it just doesn't sell because it's not worth what he is asking. Supply, demand, availability all are factors. I wish him luck with his sale but I'm not interested at all. Rob

Sticks to kids too. Rob

There is not a lot of demand for them but there may be someone looking for some. Being tube type the bead condition was not as conducive to leaking as later model tubeless types. If you have room I'd hang onto them just in case another collector on here needs a pair. Rob

Forgot about them Glenn. Nice people there and really want their work to be to your expectations. Rob

I was figuring he was the same and you have both spoken highly of him in the past. Rob

His attitude in print negates any desire to proceed.Rob

The Quotes: Mack AutoAffairMac_Quote.pdf The Peterbilt AutoAffairPeter_Quote.pdf As mentioned earlier I did not go with the punched holes option. Therefore there is no inbound freight which would have consisted of shipping old rails to them. Rob

And no rust!! Rob

I'll give him a yell tomorrow. Tell him I said hi if I forget. Rob

Hi David, that is the pair of 1/4" 80,000 tensile strength rails not punched with holes, delivered. I deemed the cost to have them punch holes too expensive as I can do them myself.I have the quotes in email and will see if I can post them. I think next month's bill cycle I'll get the double frame of "Project R-12" rolling also. Rob

Tell you a little story that kinda pushed me over the edge to get new rails for the B-61 project also: Just last evening I decided to take the frame apart so I could have the complete thing sandblasted including any "creep", or trapped rust. This decision was arrived at when I was sighting from from rear to front of the left side rail and it was bowed in between two crossmembers a little bit. I first took out the bolts that secured the rear crossmember to the rail on the left side and it heaved out a little bit. I then started with the next forward crossmember and once the fasteners were clear, the rail heaved out a bit more. Knowing I had a definate bend to this rail from some sort of trauma, I moved to the next crossmember forward. After removing the fifth bolt assembly from this crossmember, then attaching my impact wrench to the sixth and final bolt, that holding the nut on the other side of the frame, I zipped the bolt loose. Sounds normal right? Well keep in mind the frame of this truck is supported on tall jack stands, and secure. The frame is right at waist level to me and the height of this last bolt is about even with my waist. Well standing there holding tools I squeeze the trigger on the 3/4 impact wrench I'm using and the bolt offers no resistance to spinning off. The tension on this frame rail violently releases as the nut spins free of the bolt threads, forcing the impact wrench straight into the center front of my jeans formerly occupied by my testicles. Now if'n I'd still had "the boys", I may have experienced seven different shades of pain on short order but instead, I gave thanks to "Momma" for saving my ass yet again. Someone must have used a chain binder or come along to winch these rails back together to bolt the crossmembers in after a collision, or upset. After both rails were apart and on the floor, the left rail has about 1.5" of bend in the middle. I could probably straighten it but there is also some rust thinning behind where the crossmembers, and shock mounts bolted on so new rails is the way to go. Rob

I just don't see that happening. Funny thing is the only place you ever see a large gathering of Peterbilt trucks is a salvage yard. This photo being no exception. Wonder why that is? Rob

I have new, blank rails coming from PG Adams for both this Peterbilt, and my B-61 project. I can drill them myself with my "Hougen" magnetic drill. Bout time I get some use out of it........ The Peterbilt rails are 16', (192") in length and are $1157.00 at my doorstep. The B-61 rails are 12'6", (150") in length and are $968.00 at my doorstep. The inner side of the B-61 rails are also to be formed to fit exactly over the outside of the existing frame rails for a very nice overlap for welding/bolting. The existing truck is cut off about six inches rearward of the cab. The actual cost of shipping will probably be a little less as they are going on the same order and these were priced separately. I have to say these are some very nice people to talk to, and deal with. Thanks for the help. Rob

I have an umcle with a 72 4020, (side shift) with the M&W kit, factory loader, auxilary hydraulics, and original hydraulic box scraper. It doesn't do work any longer except grade the drive and only has 1500 and change hours. The original paint has never been touched since new. It's always kept inside a closed barn, and still shines. He turned down $25,000 for it at a show and the guy had $10K in cash on him looking to take this one home! I like the 4020 series and have painted several through the years as they are still a very popular "chore" tractor. Rob