Rob

I'll bet with the right amount of "tender and caressing touch" you could make her drip at the ankles. Larry's poor motorcycle. Rob

Gotta think that truck just by looks would do most any job asked of it.Rob

What is the difference in the engine with this Big Cam IV from the others? Rob

Gonna splinter that hood and drive the radiator into the ground when the frame gives way. Rob

I showed that photo to "Momma". She said she could put three bills end to end and still have a little room left over. Man, I love that woman. Rob

Slurpy!!! Rob

Never been around one myself but I noticed that too. Rob

Believe it or not, I'm quite certain ridership is in that one's future. Everybody else in this family rides so "Kinley" will be no different. Rob

I got two of em, (coyotes) last year out the back door of the shop. One of em got one of my mousers, and that made me mad. I didn't clean up anything but there was no parts left next morning. Rob

I want to be there when Larry is 'splaining" that one to the girlfriend! Rob

Especially when you have to get back into it for modifications/additions later on. Rob

Not an ignorant question at all. All stuff is readily available over the counter at any heavy truck parts supplier. You need the chambers, a new tractor protection valve, (TP-3) a PP-1 valve, a PP-7 valve, a quick release valve, (QR-1) and interconnecting hoses/tubing. Go to the Bendix website, or Leversole has posted an air brake schematic to follow. It really is not too difficult to convert as long as you can get the chambers to mount in the existing mounts. Seems like your truck was a single axle and you would not have any problem if so. Rob

I've toyed with doing something like that for people but most will go with a "Painless Wiring", (as example) for their rewire projects and they print their wiring in several places along the length. This unit I have is not hand held but plugs into a computer and uses 150 ft. rolls of shrink tube. It also cuts it to the length after printing you program it to. Burndy, Ideal, Klein, and a few others make smaller and less expensive types but the cost per piece is considerably more to use. Rob

Yes, but it's a whole different set of operating parameters when you are doing this stuff for others. Rob

My apologies for the mistype. My limited mental capacity dimenishes as I think more than one thought process....... I was thinking of the harness I'll prolly go with alongside yours. Rob

I'll ask "Momma" when she wakes from her needed "Beauty Sleep". She actually purchased it but be warned, I know it was over 2 large to get. Rob

That is the best way. Time consuming but the inherent connection integrity is unsurpassed and when "milliohms" or resistance matter through the connection, it is the only way. Rob

The six gauge feeder will cover anything you will run in the truck for certain. I'm going to run dual feeders as I want the implement bed to be completely separate with work lights etc. from the truck. I tend to prefer manual reset circuit breaker protection and will probably go that way. I have a shrink tube printer but have not used it yet for this stuff. Using this will allow me to name the circuit such as H/L, Horn, etc. Wanted one for a long time so finally got one for Christmas although was told it was not for Macks! Rob

Do you mean you "tinned" the wiring before crimping, or used terminations soldered to the wiring? I don't use the insulated solderless terminals myself. I solder the termination to the wire, then shrink wrap the connection. It is mandated that way. Rob

I've been using them for over 25 years and still have my original pair. I couldn't begin to count the number of crimps those things have made. Rob

"Stay-Kon" is a Thomas & Betts trade name. "Klein Tools", "Vaco Tools" and several others also produce these. The kind of termination pliers that just flatten the electical crimp connections should be banned in my opinion. They are very good and what I use at work. I thought you had mentioned an a/m harness using newer ATO series fuses and thought possibly "Painless Wiring". which are alright in quality, but one can do better themselves, (again, my opinion). I see you are using heavy wiring for the electical circuitry which is a good thing. I typically rip it all out and start over with a bulk harness made after counting the number of circuits needing in the looms, mark each end for continuity, and wire to fit. At work everything is white so don't really follow a color convention but some cannot do without it. Looks like you got a good start going. Be nice to see all the lights come on when called for and not worry about something burning up, or not operating. Rob

If typical those linings on the parking brake are glazed fully. They are also so work hardened on the surface you never will get them to work. If you reline the existing shoes it will be possible to skid the rear tires on gravel when it's applied. They however are always shot on an older truck and most is because of driving with it misadjusted and complacency taking over. I would convert over to spring parking brakes and you would be much happier, and more modern. Rob

Much better choice to use "Sta-Kon" type crimp pliers rather than the kind that just crush the teminal end onto the wiring. This type termination does not slip.Wiring looks good and should hold up the life of the truck. What type of a/m wiring harness are you using? Rob

Let me know what you need Glenn. I think it could be drop shipped to your place. Rob

Hi Leslie, I always use what is now Fleetpride in Peoria for aftermarket parts. The store has actually been there since 1971 and was a family owned business till the middle of last year. They are a PAI "master distributor". I don't know the cost on them yet but will be glad to tell you once I get the bill. Rob