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Rob

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Rob

  1. Should be an LDT 465 Continental, (could be labled White, or Hercules Motors depending on production date) inline six if multifuel. Used to be so commonplace in the military but getting expensive to work on now. I have three on gensets, (diesel powered) and they are a fine engine but underrated in the military trucks. Pretty easy to get another durable 100 horses over the military power rating with different injectors and larger rollers in the "Roosa-Master" pump. Rob
  2. On the B series you could take the air pressure regulator apart to clean/oil the thing. It also had a reservoir for holding a little oil. I used air tool oil. With the Bendix governors replacing the original Sealco types, this option went away. You can still dump a little oil into the discharge tube to lube things up but you don't need much. When the shutterstat bleeds, it will discharge some of the oil but a bit will work up to the cylinder. Rob
  3. It still could have pulled a dead Pete in the shape it was in; I just know it could. Rob
  4. That photo is so typical; a Mack with a chain hanging on it. Funny thing is, the other end is usually attached to another dead Peterbilt. I know you were saving the Peterbilt driver some embarrassment so the photo is cut off, but I once again display my lack of pride and bring the information to the forefront. If those shutters haven't worked in a while they are probably frozen from rust in the linkage. This is easy to repair by taking them apart to lube up the pivot points. Rob
  5. open the hood and on the passenger side at the top should be an air cylinder. The air line for the cylinder runs to the shutterstat mounted in the water manifold on the left front of the engine. Some shutters were fixed also and if your engine has a mechanical clutch fan, they very well could have been fixed, or later model replacements. Rob
  6. They are posted on here from late 09 to early 2010. An older gent gave the truck to me suspecting I like older Mack trucks? Rob
  7. It is tight at best to work on under there. I was a LOT smaller when 15 than now so can only imagine what that job would entail to perform now. Think I'd just pick the cab off the chassis. Rob
  8. I used to be quite fond of teenage VULVA myself. Rob
  9. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iron-Patch-emblem-Better-blow-job-than-no-job-construction-worker-emblem-/130620770268?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e699ac7dc
  10. My B67 don't fit me well either but the daughter wants, so it will be kept. I even named it: Short Nosed Ugly Fucker, (SNUF). Gonna eventually be her horse trailer puller. It is currently a tandem but I have a nice 4.25 ratio single axle from my other B61 that will eventually go under it. Might even put it on air ride for her. It runs 65mph w/5.77 rears now, so I can only imagine where it will go with the higher ratio......... Rob
  11. Gonna need a lot of work in that cab to reuse. The driver's side rocker where it joins into the "A" pillar is gone with this being a structural supporting member. The door perimeter is the strength to that cab and as shown is severely compromised. Not saying it cannot be repaired, but am saying it will not be cheap to work with this truck. Rob
  12. It is usually the cylinder packing, (unservicable) that leaks down but if this is tight, the shutters would remain closed indefinately. Rob
  13. Yup, the best thing to do there is grind out the filler, strike a straight parting line, then use a slice disc, (5/32nds) to cut them apart. Now me being the lazy SOB I am, run down the seam with a plasma torch. The result is the same, you still need to make both mating flanges and weld them to the edges of the remaining fenders, and headlamp panels. These areas rusted badly due to wheel splash and grime packup. Rob
  14. You can clamp them closed for show with a pair of small vise grip pliers. Rob
  15. Given the pricing a lot of folks think parts are worth, that is a logical assumption derived through deductive reasoning. Rob
  16. "Momma" done broke me of that habit. Took several "bitch slappins" but I finally came around, (best she knows). Rob
  17. It will take a while but let me verify this pto will fit that trans. Rob
  18. I always "scratch" when setting on the couch. My damned scar tissue always itches. Rob
  19. I think unless custom ordered, all the grilles in the R model series were either silver paint, or polished aluminum blades when new. To get the shutters to stay shut requires air pressure in the system. If the air leaks down, the shutters open. This is the same principal the "shutterstat" works by. When setting temperature is reached inside the "shutterstat" the port for the air cylinder that operates the shutters is bled down with a spring opening the shutters. When the "shutterstat" senses it's temperature is below the setpoint, air is once again routed to the shutter cylinder overcoming the spring pressure to close the shutters. You can incorporate a mechanical lever to keep them closed but I wouldn't do that. It will be forgotten about reminding you at an inconvienient time in traffic. Rob
  20. It is the cost of the dies and the repair of the same being the reason it's so expensive to mass produce parts. Especially on a "job shop" type atmosphere. Casting parts is a bit better on small quantities but production cannot stand the turn around time. "Tool and die" personel are a difficult breed to get hold of. Especially for stamping operations. It is a dying art for a large part. I would be interested in an older manual machine between 35-50 tons. Automatic batch feeding is not required but the heaters and ancillary equipment would be. Give me a call should you run across something and I'll drive down to look prior to the auction so not to get in your way. Both of my friends mentioned earlier know that business quite well from an operational standpoint as each was at their jobs over 10 years each. Rob
  21. Yessir.... This is very true. Many of the John Deere tractor dashboard panels and electronics produced within the last 10 years were manufactured by Dickey-John in Auburn, IL. Two friends I went to high school with in Springfield, IL moulded them. They are now unemployed due to shipping those decent paying jobs off to China. I think the late model machines they used were floated over also. What is the shot capacity of those machines? Rob
  22. That would be great. I don't need the bezels, switches, lables or anything, just the bare plastic part. If there are any side panels available that would be good to include also as I'm missing one side but cannot remember which. I've done this type of thing in the past but with smaller parts. The originals were injection moulded where I will resin cast replacements. Thanks, Rob
  23. So far, I've received absolutely nothing pertaining to either my Mack affliction, nor for the shop. I musta really, really pissed Santa off over the past year cause this ain't never happened before. I'll tell you what though; I got two new grandaughters this year and I wouldn't trade em for anything ever received in the past. Hope everybody had a great Christmas and despite all the gifts; remember what the holiday season is about. Rob
  24. As long as there are no pieces missing it would be easy. Two of my trucks use this same cover and they are missing large pieces. The originals became very brittle with age. I can prolly repair mine, but it's not difficult to make the mould boxes, and then new ones once the setup is perfected. If you don't mind get them over to me as the originals won't be damaged. Hopefully many can benefit in the end. Rob
  25. That is correct. The "selectair" knob in this truck is a replacement from PAI. Rob
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