Rob

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mack-Truck-Mascot-and-base-Very-Rare-Bull-Dog-Original-/110783835031?pt=UK_Car_Parts_Vehicles_Automobila_ET&hash=item19cb3b2b97 Somehow, I just don't think so. Rob

"Momma" always says Rob; "You're dumber than a box or rocks" but I get by. Rob

That would be the way to do it. He would still be out quite a bit of labor and time anyway it is approached. Rob

Poor prior rebuild would be one way. I'm unaware of problems you are experiencing. Rob

We have my namesake in the barn plenty too. Rob

A customer of mine here in good ole Farmington, IL has a Willys gasser he ran in the 1960's tucked in the back of his garage. His name is John Dare. I don't know if he made any news of any kind at the time but I know the car is still in the garage; same place it has been for over 20 years I know of. I'll see if he'll let me snap a photo. Rob

We actually have a lot of them around here. Every fall we travel to Starved Rock state park during the migration season. A real sight to see also as there are literally hundreds at all times. The love the trees by the Illinois river but gather at the park yearly. Majestic birds they are for certain. Rob

Sad that it gets that way sometimes but: Ain't nothing a leather strap across the bare ass cheeks won't remedy. If the mother doesn't allow that or bitches because of it; they both need to hit the road. It's better in the long road that way. Rob

I never read that part of the prior post, or forgot. Definately needs to be corrected before further t/s can take place. Rob

That EQ you mention looks like it very well could be used. I especially like winch trucks and could certainly find a use for it here. I bring another truck home however and I'm reasonably sure my posting days would be over.... Rob

Keep in mind how a hydraulic power steering system works and what it takes to make it work. Pressure equates to how easy it is to turn the wheels. Flow equates to how fast you can turn the wheels. Pressure gauges and flow meters are part of a thorough power steering system checkout. You use these to check operating parameters of the system, ensure relief valve settings are correct and that the system is not destroying itself internally from binding, (as in the case of altering factory settings). Over center torque settings is a critical setting due to the steering gear wear greater in this area. If the over center torque is not, or unable to be set appropriately, the steering mechanism will never be able to work correctly. This is set by the depth of mesh of the worm and sector shafts internal to the steering gear and measured at the steering wheel hub with the pitman arm removed from the steering gear. It is measured in inch pounds and should be up to three times more resistive in the center position than off center. As mentioned, if over center torque cannot be acheived, the system cannot work correctly and a plausible by product is erratic operation. This whole subject seems vaguely familiar somehow....... Rob

I'm not at the shop now so don't have access to the database but with the cost of new parts and labor including paint I'm quite sure you'd bust through a $5000.00 bill. It is not a small job compounded by both sides. I really think you can find a decent cab for less than the cost of conversion, or possibly a complete truck. You are asking about something quite late model and since these cabs were prone to rust, the cost for a good serviceable cab is quite high. Rob

Tire dealer should be able to tell you offset from the rim number stamped into it. Research through a Mack dealer if your hub/axle combination will support the offset installed. The more offset the rim has, the more loading of the wheel bearing in the direction of the offset. The installation of float type tire changes the geometry of the front end including the steering angles at times. You may have something fighting design parameters with the installation of non standard tires for the wheel hub combination. Rob

I would really hesitate to say anybody "screwed up" at all. I think something is probably not working together quite correctly. Could be something as simple as wheel bearings in the hubs slightly worn, rim offset improper for the truck given the tire size, loose parts as mentioned earlier, etc. It also could be runout of a part slightly bent, or a belt slightly out of whack in a tire. If you could get a different set of tire and temporarily install on the steer axle to evaluate any change in the problem(s). Rob

Sounds like he adjusted the steering stops which would have nothing to do with the problem you are experiencing. These are just bolts that thread into the spindle forging limiting how far the wheels will actually turn, or cut. Rob

Should be a 743 cubic inch engine if memory serves. Also they tended to have a weak crankshaft snout but in the use you would give it, none of this would apply. Rob

I have repaired many of both types of cabs. From a retail standpoint you would be much better off to find the cab you need rather than convert although I'd love to do the work for you; $$$$$ JK. Rob

This kinda interests me. A power steering pump is a positive displacement pump meaning as the rotor turns moving the internal vanes, or gears, a certain amount of fluid is displaced through the balance of the hydraulic system as flow. Unless your pump was worn internally allowing internal bypass of the fluid, (cavitation, and increased heating as a byproduct) it is difficult to understand how the pump would be at fault. This would be easy to see as increased effort needed to turn the steering mechanisim, (due to low system pressure) or the system fighting the driver attributed to worn parts. I don't know if the steering gear has been checked for proper preload, or over center operation in this application, but I've seen a lot of steering parts replaced as servicing technicians either did not troubleshoot correctly, or owners didn't want to pay for the service. On most all accounts, someone is not happy with the turnout. Many people, (including technicians) do not either understand the need for proper mesh of the steering gear, (recirculating ball type) or the wear that occurs internal to the steering gear, and it's effects. I only bring this up because I have seen several steering gears just plain worn out yet it is overlooked and bad front end parts are blamed. Again someone is usually dissapointed and feels taken advantage of, or not treated fairly. If the steering gear has not been checked/adjusted and over center torque measured, I would start there. Yearly changes of power steering fluid, (no matter what you prefer) along with the filter will provide many more years of trouble free service than a unit that never sees anything but a top off when low. Hope I didn't bust anybody's balls cause didn't mean to. Rob

I'm much too cheap to pay $4.05 per foot, (plus shipping) for the rubber. The nylon strapping does not rot and really doesn't retain the water you would think it would. It does look kinda funny if you leave it yellow under the steel straps however. It can be purchased any color you like from industrial vendors such as Mcmaster-Carr, MSD, and a few others. Grainger's used to carry it. Rob

I like nylon strapping. I do dye it black on the stove in the stock pot when "Momma" isn't home for obvious reasons. It does work well although rubber strip works well also. Rob

Red flag for certain. This same scenario has been played out several times and most use wire services such as Western Union, Moneygram, etc. Once the funds are sent, there is usually no recourse for the payer. Rob

Sheeeesh!! I thought by the title to this thread we was gonna be talking about randyp, not some car flick. Rob

I did 9.5" 5000# fibermix in my shop floor. I was concerned about jacking a loaded truck up with a floor jack. Rob