Rob

Just through Benton last weekend myself. Truck would have originally been built with an ENDT-675 engine which is a 237, and either a straight 5, or two stick six speed. Probably on 4.17, 442, or 5.XX gearing depending upon how heavy spec the truck actually is.

Oh man, if they only knew..... I've been stuck making the dinner rolls at family gatherings for damned near 40 years now and all because I didn't use a straight slot screwdriver to clean my nails before diving into the dough.....

My wife tells everybody the grease under my finger nails makes the dinner rolls taste so good.

Most newer equipment uses either electric, hydraulic, or pneumatic fan drive. These are compact and generic installation kits used to be offered. I've retrofitted both electric, and pneumatic and both work well. Proper shrouding is paramount to any good cooling system. A fan blade spinning freely and not shrouded is wasting a lot of energy as it takes a lot of power to drive the assembly.

I've untwisted, unfolded, and unbuckled worse massaging frames back into shape. Nothing wrong with sectioning a frame either. This truck is NOT hurt bad and probably worth working with, but IS over priced by the seller for what it is.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324696151480?hash=item4b996615b8:g:pjcAAOSwUndgyQeU

I remember Ed restoring that tractor a few years ago. Can't remember if that is one I sent some small parts along for or not but saddened to see it in this shape for sure. I remembered it immediately from when Autocar DC posted the photos up a few weeks back but was surprised to see it in the St. Louis metro area. Probably got clipped, was a total loss by the insurance coverage, sent the the normal "pool" channels, and another broker whom has it now is attempting to remarket at great profit. But, that's just the way I see it.

Sounds about right. I agree with Bob in theory that someone who really liked and cared for that truck has passed and it's now being peddled by a greedy agent for equally greedy family members.

Kind of an SOB to do in a B-61 as the steering column shaft runs right into the steering gear so one has to fashion a centering bearing and support for the lower end of the steering column shaft, and install a knuckle or universal joint to attach to the new steering gear input shaft. Not really too awful bad if the engine and trans are out of the chassis but it takes a mount that either bolts or welds to the frame for the replacement steering gear to mount to ensuring there is enough sector shaft, (Pitman) protruding through the frame rail to affix the Pitman arm to. Of course there are Garrison units available that retain the use of the manual steering gear and use a torque link type affair to route hydraulic fluid under pressure to stroke a cylinder moving the front wheels too. These are still made I'm told but $$$ to acquire complete. They however are not hard to install. I've not installed any since the early 1980's, but again I'm told these systems are still available. I always thought the Garrison steering was very sloppy "over center" and wandered a bit on the pavement myself but it sure turned easy.....

I existed with my B-61T for just over 20 years with manual steering so it can be done for sure. However, power steering many times would be a welcome addition along with just a bit more positive caster placed into the steering axle to improve it's "road manners". A B-61 is fairly light on the steering axle but a modified lower steering column to attach to a custom mounted Saginaw, or Ross variable ratio steering gear is a great addition. The limiting factor is the mounting of the steering gear on the inside of the frame which makes locating an acceptable steering gear a challenge. This basically needs retained to clear the front wheel "cut" for turning. Modifying a drag link to connect to the spindle isn't much of a challenge for a good welder. Forgot to add a blanking plate is readily available for the back of the compressor when the pump is not required. If the pump becomes surplus to you, I could use one for another project I'm working with every now and then.....

Last line item on the page:

I have one that was built while you were there. It is a 1978 RL755LST w/Caterpillar 1693TA engine, RTO-12513 trans, and Mack "Camelback" rears at 38K rating.

No worries. If a Mack transmission don't forget to remove the very large hexagon shaped plug in the side of the case and clean the magnet this plug houses. The magnet is in the oil flow path from the oil pump and catches metal burnishings to keep them from riding around with the oil.

90wt gear oil. I still use oil meeting the GL-4 standard myself. I have a bulk pump with no totalizer so can't answer to quantity required but fill to the level of the fill plug threads. Let it set a few minutes and top it off again

I posted an ebay link for a shutterstat that should work for you in the application in your wanted advertisement.

It is very much worth the effort to have an older truck but you are asking for parts over 40 years obsolete and not being reproduced. Impatience will not help your cause, or quest with an older truck. Your problem is easily addressed with the installation of an adjustable aquastat, and 12vdc pneumatic solenoid valve. Once at your desired temperature and differential settings, the system will run fault free. When unable to simply replace it is time to modernize, or upgrade.

I have seen aluminum mounts on both the frame side, and transmission side. Usually with an older truck one, or the other is broken as the isolator bushings were not kept in good order and aluminum won't withstand the "hammering" these will take.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202164143329 Not many of these left and this one is cooler than you're wanting but would work fine.