Rob

I'll try Adelman's tomorrow. Never really thought about them although I've purchased a few things in the past. Rob

There is a funny looking piece of steel that looks like it would possibly lock something into place. Kinda looks like a swing bolt that slips into an eye on a house door to hold it closed, or locked. The platter looks like a Fontaine to me but the bolt that was in the front, (pointing at the rear of the cab) is plain to see (sheared off). It is much too smooth for a torch cut although a band saw would cut it. Too rusty to tell for certain. Rob

Hey Randy, I thought I seen you pull into a Wal-Mart store in Peoria this afternoon. This is no shit too: I was awaiting my wife and daughter in the parking lot and seen a Peterbilt limp in with a sleeper about the size of yours without a trailer, close to the same wheelbase, lift axle, and plain white. Thinking it may have been you and judging only what your avatar photo, and posted photo of you, and dog, I drove over. Well low and behold, the guys wife was driving the truck and when they both jumped out, I knowd right away it wasn't you. The truck was apparently new with an Illinois "temp tag" in the windshield. Rob

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mack-ch-613-cabover-/220840711708?pt=Commercial_Trucks&hash=item336b21d61c Rob

I'm wondering if this thing is a "Holland" after all. There is no readable tag but it has a flat platter with no grooves manufactured into the face. There is a sheared off bolt through the front, and the release handle is a flat bar rather than a bent into a "U" rod the other "Holland" ones I have use. There is an aluminum tag that looks riveted to the rt. side but it cannot be read. The jaws do not come together at the rear but rather leave almost a 3/4" gap between them. Rob

I'm looking to purchase eight open center 6.75X17.5 low boy trailer rims. I have good 8.25XR15 16 ply radial tires on the trailer but don't want to count on them more than a couple of years due to age. Also want to go with tubeless type tires. They are currently less than two years old, but the size is getting difficult to acquire. I've located new rims for $121.00 each and spacers for $33.00 each from a vendor I used to use but that seems high to me. I've never purchased new rims for anything before so I could be very wrong. I would however prefer used rims and would even consider tires too if comparable in size. Rob

I'll be in there tomorrow and will take your information with me. I used to work in a speedometer shop many years ago and know the parts you are looking for but the terminology may differ due to location. Do you have the main housing? Do you require this drive to be through a 90 degree angle, or straight? The driveshaft you refer to is called a "pencil gear" over here. If you could snap me a photo of what you have to connect to. Rob

What transmission do you have Ellis? I'll certainly check for you. Rob

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/2564546840.html If I could afford it, I'd drive it. Rob

The 5th wheel is on a 1964 B61 but I know it is not original to the tractor. I'll look for the bolt. On another note, the Holland you helped me adjust works well after cleaning and adjusting. Rob

Chances are the arm, or the apparatus inside the governor the arm controls has wear not allowing sufficient adjustment. If you've not replaced the spring arm the throttle linkage attaches to, this might be a good idea as they do wear although you can't tell by looking at it. Rob

Handy little catalog to have for future reference. Thanks Rob

I seen a guy drop a brand new, (one overnight stay) "Avion" camper on the ground after destroying his bedsides a few years back. That made a hell of a racket when it impacted the ground cause a lot of fiberglass fractured and exploded from the impact. I've always checked a 5th wheel for locking before pulling, but that reinforced the need for me. Rob

Jumped in ole "Yella Dog" today to move him. Backed under the drop deck until the 5th wheel closed up and then connected the air lines. After pulling the trolley valve to lock the trailer brakes to check for jaw locking, I release the clutch and the truck shoots forward about 3" before coming to an abrupt stop jarring my single upper tooth against my lower lip. Turning around and looking out the rear cab window, I back the truck up taking up the slack, then move forward about 3" again. The jaws in the 5th wheel look good but I didn't see an adjustment available? Regardless, the other two trucks I've pulled the trailer with do not have this play so I assume the 5th wheel need either adjusted, or rebuilt. I've never pulled anything with this truck so was a new experience. Rob

Great news Ernie! I'll be glad to see you make some positive progress after the round of setbacks you've experienced. Rob

Does anybody have a parts book on these things? The air brakes are 12X7.5 and going to be relined, but I'll want to replace all hardware too. The tags on both axles are corroded out/off so can't really identify by that. Any other way to tell what series I have? These are vintage early 80' models. Thanks, Rob

As good measure it probably wouldn't hurt to throw a new cranshaft position sensor into the engine if it uses one. These "hall effect" devices can become intermittent with time, exposure, heat, etc. Rob

How's this for clear thinking? http://dotsub.com/view/6474921d-8943-443b-9128-de62aa3b3e54 Rob

You would be better off replacing with a duplex two stick. If you can find parts for the unishift at all, to repair what came apart internally, the case can be welded back together. Those transmissions were troublesome unless kept in proper adjustment and maintained well, and often. Rob

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item1e665bfcdc About an hour ago. Rob

Hmmmm, some of you guys think Mack green compares to "baby shit green"? Why, I'm so surprised as I thought you was loyalists. Must be that Peterbilt influence clouding judgement. Now my plastic secondary overwrap would qualify as "baby shit green" cause it is stained due to the permeable nature of the material. It's integrity is still intact so no real need for replacement. I had to cut my intake of chilli dogs however as the garmet was becoming stretched to the limit of exploding past the double elastic tension bands around the 54" waist and 37" leg openings. Come to think of it, a chilli dog with mustard and all the fixins does sound good right now. Rob

Starting battery technology where a group 31 series cell will put out 1150 CCA was unheard of until the mid 1980's. Most truck manufacturers along that time frame were looking to lose at least one battery for both weight, and cost savings. All of my trucks have a pair of group 31's in them and start fine down to about 15 degrees without heat although they do need to crank a while when that cold. When this system was brought out they still needed the capacity of a series fed starter circuit but wanted to retain the 12VDC basic electrical system in the truck. As is widely known, series/parallel switches were troublsome but this new system was so against convention at the time it never gained a foothold in the marketplace. Finally battery technology gained ground and obsoleted it. I seen one on an early 80's something truck and fought it for a couple of days as the truck had caught on fire unrelated to this. Everything had to be rewired and figgering this sucker out wasn't easy at the time. Rob

I think he has that "bastardized" system when they were trying to get away from the series/parallel switch setup but battery technology wasn't quite up to par yet. I've seen the alternator with several ouput posts used in this application. I think they were Leece-Neville/Prestolite, or Motorola. It didn't stay around long. Rob

About 650rpm. There are setting screws on the side of the accelerator arm. One is for high idle speed, the other for low. I'd get a book on how to adjust however. Rob

In all likelyhood you then have a remote solenoid. If this is defective as in burnt up internally, it can present the problems experienced. Pull the large wires from the magnetic switch, (solenoid) that connect the batteries to the starter motor and have a helper mash the starter button, or turn the key, (depending on application) and measure the resistance from the terminals the battery lead, and starter lead attach to when this thing clunks shut. This reading should be less than one ohm displayed on the meter. If much more, replace, or repair the switch. Don't hold this switch engaged for over 45 seconds as they do generate heat internally and can open internally and you can be screwed. Your starter uses a "Dyer" drive relying on rapid acceleration of the rotor to throw the drive into the flywheel teeth. and a large spring to retract it. Rob