Rob

I've already purchased a couple, one in red, one in pink. Just couldn't do without them. I had one custom made for myself in Mack green cause I want to fit in. Problem was that every time I'd bend over to tie my shoes, (for instance) I pop the snaps across the bottom of the crotch area open, and the damned fabric would roll up over my gut like a window shade you'd let go of at the bottom of it's travel. Done got that part fixed though. Had "Momma" sew me a zipper across the bottom, (still need easy access to change my diaper) and it stays shut much better. Done tried "velcro" but it lost its grip through a few change cycles. "Momma" picked up some silver reflective material and was gonna sew me an exhaust pipe on the backside but I didn't let her. I've got class and morals, (but you already knew that) and I thought it would look "tacky". Rob

There is a possibility you have a 24VDC starter motor. There will be a tag affixed to the starter motor body that will be stamped with it's voltage, or if the truck uses a starter solenoid, (magnetic switch) and is mounted on the starter itself, the voltage requirement will be stamped into the unit someplace. This is usually close to where the mounting bolts retain it to the starter motor. If you will post up the serial number of the truck someone here will probably decode it for voltage requirements. I've seen the symptoms mentioned due to bad/dirty electrical connections, shorted windings in a starter motor or magnetic switch, or a defective battery internally. It seems like you mentioned the truck's electrical system was 12VDC, and the starting system is 24VDC from another post. If this is the case the alternator for this truck would be of a special variety and I'd probably look to revamp it to a more conventional style replacing the 24VDC starter motor with a 12VDC unit. Battery technology is much better now than when that system was available. Rob

Two redneck are drinking in a bar: One redneck says to the other; I just found out Elks have sex up to fifteen times per night! The other redneck replies; Shit! and I just joined the VFW. Rob

Stock lengths of exhaust tubing is 10' sticks no matter the size. 4" electrical conduit pipe is the same steel as exhaust tubing but the galvaneal coating on the exhaust piping is heavier. The only place you will fing shorter lengths is from drop, (cutoffs from other jobs), or an exhaust shop. Using a bender to form the tubing like the type utilizing a hydraulic bottle jack will crush the tube before it forms a nice radius. If you have access to a sliding shoe bender, ($$$) it will work fine. An industrial electical contractor can do a real nice job for you if they have this equipment. Use "Torin" stainless clamps in the exhaust and you don't need to worry about leaks. Rob

Not a bad lookin tractor there Paul. Glad you got a lot of history with it too. I'd have kept a Massey Harris 44 I had with a Continental "Red Seal" diesel and wide front if a guy didn't offer almost four times what it was worth!! Do you have the "road gear" in yours? That made them quite useful from field to field many years ago. Rob

It's alright to run the red fuel off road in a licensed vehicle. Drive across the street and you are subject to fining. Farmers get busted here regularly but it really depends on who you know I suppose. One of my customers runs his truck from farm to elevator without license, with red fuel regularly and is never bothered. Of course he is only on country roads.......... Rob

I've ran the stuff a lot through the years without any problems. I try to keep a gallon of "Siloo" brand additive in the shop at all times for this use. It is green in color. Dexron III, or IV works well also bit I've not been on the road with the slight red "tinge" you can get with running it. Rob

I think his science is flawed. Rob

I've seen bushing and bearing wear cause this but most times it is nature of the beast. The camber cannot be set for all circumstances of operating parameters everywhere. If the tag axle is down with 50psi holding it to the pavement with a given load impressed upon it's suspension, this same load changes with 100psi. Camber, or tire scrub through turning of the truck is what wears the tires less than even across the tread. Every one I've ever been around suffers this same phenomenom. The best you will be able to do is experiment with pressure if you know the alignment is optimized. This is trial and error experimentation with really no other way I'm aware of. Rob

Not advocating or anything but you could have differing decals and such for differing levels of participation financially. This could be the old style five color Mack logo with stars, or typeset differences and of course "T" shirts and ballcaps reflecting the same. Many options and variables to consider. There is a wealth of both knowlege and bullshit readily shared amongst the membership. This I value personally and am willing to foster the progression if need be. Rob

Maybe I need one of those too. People keep calling me "Yoda" and I need a new identity. Rob

"Mommy" says she has to agree with you on that!! Rob

That "rare"1974 Mack would scare me to acquire and depend on right away. Lots of "engineering" there. Originally an eastern V8 truck, with a later hood panel installed to stuff an intercooler behind it. I like the idea of what was done but lack of attention to detail really shows up. I've never seen a "splayed frame" Valueliner but maybe they were produced. Certainly not until the late 70's was the series released. Rather it is probably a later model hood on an earlier chassis to make the intercooler fit ahead of the radiator. Lack of attention to detail really shows itself on this build. I think overspray from paint work on the air intake hoses, frame rails, back sides of the personel doors, etc. really detracts from a selling point. This one is "dolled up" to make it appealing and I've seen this seller do this same thing to trucks several times. Rob

I know Barry is on this subject like "stink on shit" so the problems will work out. My favorite site on the internet without doubt and by far. Met a lot of nice people here and many, like "otherdog" says, are considered friends although we've never met. If the site requires financial support from the participating membership for upgrades, I'm in. Rob

I brought up getting her a Mack for her very own. Nikki says she'll have to think on that one. "Momma", well, let's just say ole Rob wasn't quite "feeling the love". Rob

Going down to the ICU now. Last evening the ventilator came off and Kinley is breathing fully on her own now. Still have some testing over the next couple of weeks but all tests so far have come back normal. We are by no means "out of the woods" yet, but progress till this time has been substantially more favorable than first expected. Rob

Man I agree with that. When I purchased my first TLB it was an open rops. The second one had a cab AND air conditioning and I'd never go back to open. Of course the heat in winter was a great asset also. Going to change skid steer loaders sometime in the future and it will have full cab and air also. Be careful reading a guys lips from Texas. We did that one time prior and it cost quite a bit of money, (although it was needed). Rob

That engine should have an SAE #2 housing on the back of it. I've seen several mid liners with Fuller transmissions of all varieties behind them. If it were me, I'd find a nice RTO-9509 Fuller trans, adapt it and the driveshaft and be done. Several of those cab styles by Magirus have the exact parts you need. I've seen several in yards over the years as the last one was built in the late 1980's You could go with a straight five speed Fuller, Clark, or Spicer and retain a syncronized transmission too, but I'd rather have the extra gears. Rob

Just got off the phone with Nik and you have been issued a virtual "slap" upside the head! Rob

IH called their three point hitch a "fast hitch", Case called theirs the "Eagle Claw" hitch. Oliver had a name for theirs too for a short time but I don't recall what it was. All were a copy of the "Ferguson Three Point Hitch" developed by Harry Ferguson for use on his, and Henry Ford's tractors. This style later became standardized within tractor manufacturing when the patents ran out. Oliver also used Continental, and Hercules engines but these were in smaller tractors. The eight and 12 speed transmissions is what everybody wanted to copy. Rob

That 1500 series was a really good tractor there. So was the 1600, and 1800 series. The diesels were either Detroit, or Perkins with the Perkins engines being real workhorses. Oliver was a pioneer in a lot of implements until they, (like Autocar, Diamond T, Reo, etc.) were bought up by the White Motors Corp. Like the trucks, things just didn't stay the same being repeatedly "raped" for profits with little put back into research and design. Rob

6lbs, 9oz, measuring 19.5" at about 9:13 this morning. Extended period of labor for my daughter, (almost 27 hours). She is doing well and minor "concerns" with little Kinley. She is truly a "miracle child" as doctor's never thought Nik could carry a pregnancy full term. First thing I'm gonna teach her is how to tell mommy "No". Thanks for the support and well wishes. Rob

Yes, me and the guys at work eat at a chinese buffet once per week. Have yet to see food staring back at me but I've never asked what it is neither. Always get full and it does a good job of cleansing the colon. Rob

Sometimes I have to do that too in restaurants. Depends on how far it is to the kitchen. Rob

All of them are alright but I'm a little partial to J.I. Case, Oliver, and Ford. You go to nearly any show and J.D. and IH are the dominant brands out there. Not that there is anything wrong with any of them, I just like to be a little different. Rob