Rob

Hi there. I appreciate your inquiry and it could be done, but such a small quantity wouldn't be cost effective I'm afraid. I don't have current stock of materials and to garner favorable pricing, a much larger order than a small run would consume would be required. A cursory glance appears a run of four pairs, (eight parts in total) would consume a very minimum order, but pricing would still be close to $225.00 per side in black, or white gelcoat. A bit much for a hobby expense other than a discerning restoration. What I build however will not be subject to breakage like the originals. Thanks, Rob

Lot of people are into drama and it takes all forms. The internet makes it easier to fit and exploit those needs.

But isn't this usually masked or covered by the sound of a banging tailgate, slamming bed on the frame rails, hopping suspension over railroad crossings, or good ole american potholes?

Clutch job in the snow..... Back in the winter of 1976-1977 was doing that task in the median of I-55 with a state cop setting behind the truck with his lights flashing. All of -16 degrees outside and had painter's tarps wrapping the truck, a kerosene torpedo heater, (salamander) heating the underside, powered by my trusty little "Dayton" 2500W generator, (still have) and two incandescent drop, or trouble lights. Did have a transmission jack and a 4X8 sheet of 3/8" "Masonite" hardboard to roll on. As the clock spun around to about 2am, I was really happy for that job to be wrapped. The day before it was just above freezing and sleeted/snowed almost nine inches and the temperature nosedived turning this mess into a frozen quagmire. The heater made it a muddy mess under the truck. The good old days, eh?

These are the new owners and still do the same quality work. I had an HF-64 steering gear rebuilt last year and top notch in workmanship. Got a reduced price too being a hobby truck. I supplied the kit for the Vickers VTM -42 pump and they installed the same with a functional checkout for a decent price. I will use them again. http://www.pwrsteering.com/

I've not seen one of those "old" selenium, or germanium plate rectifiers in a long time. They do carry a lot of current for their size however. Not as efficient for size as modern silicone based rectifiers but certainly did the job making very clean DC voltage output.

Been a long time since I've seen one of that style intact as the retaining tabs or wire are broken. Most are either equipped with the later style, or retrofitted to the later style as it's not difficult to do. I've not owned an L series myself but all of my trucks use the later style.

I have to get to an appointment but let's see if this can get you started:

Next time I get to the shop I'll photo what you need. Probably won't be today however.

I think the horn contact rebuild kit is still available. The same one fit almost everything Mack made up into the late 1980's I know of although the horn button changed.

Yup. Illinois done seen the loss of revenue from fuel taxes on electric cars so tripled the annual licensing cost and branded them with an "EL" at the end of the plate.

I remember the plea for $$$ to keep it operational but don't actually remember it being shut down. I've not a visitor there and really never have been however other that following links posted here.

Exactly.

Most around here when getting new equipment are LPG powered. Especially the school buses. Diesel power is proving far too expensive for already cash strapped school districts to bear.

Those are generic photos of Eaton axles. I would need to know the model of the axle to drill down to correct parts. However, the part referenced as E-2104 gets bent out of alignment easily with lowboy type trailers due to the nature of the usage they get. If that inner bushing is held cocked in it's bore and not parallel to the S cam shaft, it will bind when the retaining plates are cinched down. This sounds like your problem. Get the axle model number off the tag which is usually affixed to the axle tube and I can put up an accurate photo for parts.

This style with 16-1/2" brakes:

All I have installed have been a slight to moderate drag as you rotate the camshaft. Can you mike the internal diameter of the bushing and the external diameter of the camshaft bearing surface? What axles and brake sizes do you have?

The countdown circuitry is failing internal to the tachometer itself. Probably a simple electrolytic capacitor but not cost effective to repair really. You install the "Hall Effect" transmitter threading into the housing till it lightly touches a flywheel tooth. Then back the transmitter out 3/4 of a turn and lock it into place.

Been down that road a time or two over the years.....

Yup, both good engines fitting the need at the time but long surpassed in this day and age.

Yeah, I was getting my doors "blown off" way back in the 70's but that's alright. I drove a more classy rig and made more netted income/money than those in the fast lane. Still have that B-61 too.

I could still do that with a 170hp Thermodyne; but I really don't mind being passed on by. I just like to get there dependably.

No reserve this time. Truck is all there except fender closing panels and sheet metal is going to need some work, but looks to be a respectable restoration candidate.

At times I do wear knee pads but it's only when cutting or grinding something to keep metal shards out of my knees and pants. Usually don't think nuthin about plopping down on the kneecaps on the shop floor, but it is hard on the blue jeans and I'd wager these days knee pads would be less expensive than pants.

That would be my assumption. Used to be a pretty common swap and almost looked at home under the hood. Farmer around here has a B-42T w/IH RD-450 from an original R-190 series tractor. I set the engine in there with a wrecker for them and it was a slip fit.