Rob

Sounds like spam to me. Rob

I like the photo of the Diamond Reo sales outlet. Plain and simple without flash, but strictly functional. Don't you just hate the cheap, inferior, chinese producted type of hubcaps such as you lost? With a high degree of certainty, an American produced set would still be right there performing thier job faithfully. Rob

Yes Mark, I'm inclined the same way. This trans did shift very smooth. My uncle keeps telling me to go with a nine speed as that is all I really need. The truck he gave me several years ago and still sits in his pasture has a RT-12509 in it but I don't want to modify the driveline unless no other alternative. May sound a bit rediculous but it's not a money thing with this truck. However, I'm not gonna roll wheelbarrows full toward it neither. Just want the dependability, and the included one year unlimited mileage warranty is a big draw for me. It has to be dependable and reliable before "Momma" will let me touch it cosmetically; really. Rob

Was gonna grab one of those stickers for my truck but forgot and walked right past the Mack booth when leaving. Rob

Those older pickups still fetch a good dollar up here if not all beat up. Texas doesn't have a lot of the rust issues we do. Rob

an area where science and technology did not need to go. Do you custom order, one, two, day or week old unbathen scent? Rob

Man these people are different. Time to secede from the union. Rob http://www.foxnews.com/politics/2011/07/14/calif-gov-signs-landmark-law-to-teach-gay-history/

Probably too low on refrigerant charge to "make" the low pressure cutout switch setting. This precludes the compressor running and not circulating oil to lubricate itself. Rob

Easy on that throttle. I've seen transmission input shafts snapped, and driveshafts twisted with that much driveline torque. Rob

Well here it is, Friday night. I figger I'm gonna order me a fresh reman RTO-14613 from either, Weller, or Adelman Truck Parts. Both parties will take a defunct RTO-12513 for $2750 exchange. A bit more money than I want to spend but I really need to have dependability out of this truck as it is to be my "pulling unit". I spoke with both parties today while driving to the show and both have ready built boxes on the shelf. Both are also available in Chicago where I'll be all next week at a training class. If anybody has any further suggestions I'm "all ears". Next week I'll have a running truck with either my spare RTO-12513 that is a fresh reman, or a fresh reman RTO-14613 trans yet to be picked up. I've also been thinking of the 10 speed swap but have done nothing other than think on this. Those I speak with suggest staying with the 13 speed. Rob

It's that cleanliness and godliness thing that comes into play. Rob

Artificial lubricants can plug and foul the bore. Natural lubricant inherent to the species, (ask randyp on that one) has no negative detractors other than smells a bit funny if not washed up shortly after it's use is completed. Rob

If you're doing things right and taking your time there shouldn't be a need to lube the shaft as most of the bores have a self lubricating tendency. Rob

Well today was a real bitch with transmission work. I removed both auxilary countershaft covers to discover both rear bearings shot and the ball cages worn, cracked and distorted. As mentioned earlier I took both rear sections with me to the parts store to evaluate which to use and turns out both are junk. The countergears in the old transmission are worn where the bearings ride and the race slips off by finger pressure. These are normally a press fit. With the races removed you can see where the shafts have obviously turned with the races slipping. The gears in this case look much better that the replacement rear. I made the determination to not work with either of them so they will go in the scrap pile. I'll pull my rebuilt and never used trans out of the storage building and slip it in to get use of the truck. I'd been saving this transmission to go behind the V12 project but that is so far down the road....... The main gearbox in the replacement looks really good and when the parts people find that shaft I'm needing, I'll build it up that way. Sure seems like a lot of time wasted but I learned a few things along the way. No harm, no foul this time and nobody got hurt so all's good. Rob

I hope my gorilla don't hear you use the term "raped ape" cause randyp is gonna be in a whole world of hurt if she does. Rob

Thanks, I had been told this also. In fact it's been suggested to plumb a 30psi air line to the range section, (forward port on piston IIRC) to ensure it stays in low when sliding together. I think this would be important if sliding the trans together vertically but I'm not. Rob

Your installed switch and fuse ratings will tell you this information. However, you cannot go wrong with incorporating a contactor, (relay) in series with your induced loads to take the sudden inrush of current in any electrical system. 10 amperes is not a lot of load but over time the contacts of the switch will oxidize and break down. This would not happen with a contactor coil and larger contacts absorbing this load. Rob

There is an electrical contact in the governor section of the injection pump. As the truck slows to a stop and the governor takes over idle operation, the rack is pushed forward breaking this contact, shutting the Jake down. This is a very critical adjustment to work correctly. There are many different variations to the mounting and adjustment of this system. Rob

Well thanks there Randy. I'm not discouraged and going to give up, just out of time I can allot to this job without moving a customer car through. I knew this was going to be slow cause I've never done a Fuller transmission before, (it's not like this is a paying job either). The parts place asked me to bring in both rear boxes and let them evaluate which to use. I'll then install the new bearings into the best box, (at their shop) and put the unit back together at mine. Hopefully this will be seamless from this point. I had also taken the front bearing retainer and bearing for the input shaft to show them as both were "out of sorts". The front bearing retainer is distorted, and gouged from the friction heat of the shaft "wollering" around. I also had the throwout bearing with me which was very "sloppy", (sorta like after getting the gorilla back from you). My adapter was finished being "laser cut" for the auxilary section yesterday. I have to do the welding so changing this out in the truck next time will be a little lighter on the ole back........ Not really too difficult to get to on this truck so should take less than an hour to change out. Having the correct tools is nice. Thanks for the support. Rob

Hi James, I gave them the "go ahead" on the rear box conversion but they are short one obsolete part, (shaft) and are trying to locate one. I need the real estate this truck is taking up and if not back together by the weekend I'm going to make a weldment to support the engine from a chain and drag the truck outside. This job is beyond overtime and my patience is expiring. I had been told about the gear you mention. It is tight on the shaft and the friction surface on the taper is in good conditon. I do think this gear had been replaced as it has good "hobb" marks in the contact faces. I just can't half ass a repair. Rob

Well this crap is getting old. After cleaning parts I discovered the rt countershaft bearing in the auxilary section to allow the countershaft to rock side to side almost 1/2". Just for shits and grins, close examination of the former transmission reveals the auxilary section gearset to be in much nicer looking condition than the one I'm currently working on. The syncronizer in the new trans is starting to flake off also. The main gearset in the new trans looks much better than the former however. I'm wondering if I should marry the two best looking sections back together as one unit? I haven't measured anything as of yet and both sets are in the parts washer now. I'll make that determination tomorrow. Regardless, I ordered new countershaft bearings for the auxilary section no matter which one gets used. Rob

First thing to try would be to remove the air inlet line and get some air tool oil into the motor. Work the motor by hand without air a few strokes to get it circulated. That motor is not real difficult to work with once it's out of the truck. Take it apart, clean it up and most times just put it back together. The old oil, grease, and sludge cakes up inside them and the exhaust muffler can get plugged easily. If you remove it from the truck and get some air to it on a bench it can be tested easily. The valve is easily repaired as it just contain "O" rings for the most part. Rob

Ran out to the shop and took the splitter piston apart. Although the "O" rings are soft and supple, the one was leaking air and the bore contained a lot of oil. The range bore was also loaded with oil which I thought unusual. Both of the shafts have pilot grinds on the ends to help not cut the rings when sliding the rods through them. This job gets easier as more experience is gained. If I were doing this while the trans were in the truck I can certainly see where the auxilary section adapter/weldment would be beneficial. That thing is heavy by itself. I've had the trans on the forks hanging by a bridle and remove the auxilary section by hand onto a pallet but it would be a different story underneath it as on a creeper. Be messy too. Can't find my safety wire pliers around here but haven't used them in several years. I need some other parts so I'll grab another set. Getting excited to get this done. Walcott show starts Thursday and don't know if I'll drive this truck or not, but still going non the less. Rob

Thanks Glenn. I pulled the rear section off tonight and will proceed tomorrow and might even slip it into the truck. Got everything built up and ready to go, just don't want any airleaks if possible. Is it possible to remove that lock bolt for the shaft and not remove the rear section? Thanks, Rob