Rob

It does not sound correct. I suppose this would work if one were placing two 12VDC batteries in parallel utilizing a negative ground but this doesn't make any sense as explained. Look again at the battery cables and find one that attaches to either the frame of the truck, or body of the starter motor itself. This attachment on the starter motor could be one of the retention bolts into the bellhousing, or the motor itself. This attachment point will not be an insulated point as it most ground the engine. Most starter motors utilizing a "Dyer" type drive will have a copper stud that is insulated from the starter motor housing where current and voltage is applied to spin the starter motor itself. You must have both a positive, and a negative battery post tied to the series/parallel switch in order to generate the 24VDC needed to spin the starter motor. The truck itself with the exception of the starting system is 12VDC. This could have a variance as if the truck were ex military, or possibly fire apparatus which could be 24VDC electical systems complete. I don't know this variable but assume it does not apply. I just looked at your photos and the battery cables do appear to be connected correctly. I probably would not use them as is as they are in bad condition. If you don't have good tight, clean connections, something will probably fry when you mash the starter button. These were some tempermantal SOB's so you need to take precautions accordingly. Looking at your first photo: the post on the left is physically smaller than the one on the right. I can see where the cable runs and attaches to the s/p switch. This is a good start. You just need to follow as mentioned earlier. Your trigger wire, (small wire) is also connected correctly. I'd get everything cleaned up, install known good batteries and give it a go. You may be surprised, you may be dissappointed, but everything looks in order from this vantage point. Rob

I've never been fond of them since their inception. Look like an inexpensive "add on" from a 4X4 store, or JC Whitney...... I actually don't care for the size of the holes in the aluminum rims either. They need to be larger, or some distinct shape such as a diamond, tempest, or some polygon to be symbolic of the truck. Not really my place to be a critic cause I'll never do better, but I also have no interest in a new truck. Rob

Best I know they don't never grow back. Least that what's going on with me. My testicles do look nice in the pretty glass jar on the mantle submerged in that yellow fluid. Ahh, fond memories of having something to scratch in the morning during a wake up yawn....... Rob

That's right I've lost my nuts again. I purchased two retaining nuts for the drive yoke on my Fuller transmissions and now can't find em. Gonna need to purchase a couple more tomorrow and sure as I do, they will be located. Got my plates today, "80 Mack" that are antique registered. Hope to have this truck at I80 next weekend, (or whenever it is) but have to get this trans back in first. It is all ready to slip in except for getting the yoke changed out and torqued down. Rob

Was a California thing. It caused the emmited exhaust smoke to be an artificial green; much like the tree huggers out there. Rob

It looks far too much like an aftermarket add on. It doesn't look like it fits the part for such a high end truck. No offense meant as they are probably trying to fit in the marketplace with nothing fully developed as of yet. Rob

Yup, brand new R models in the 70's sat higher in the front end than the rear. When air ride cabs became more popular folks wanted them to be more level and they did not ride good when the leveling height valve was adjusted. On the truck you have if you hike up the rear of the cab it will wear the rear of the hood panel due to gap closure. Take a look at the seam between the end of the hood, and front of the cowl. This gap should be equidistant all the way up from the bottom. If tighter at the bottom, the cab mounts in the rear have sagged/compressed. If tight at the top, your front cab mounts have compressed. I've seen the bearing surface of the cab support at the rear beat into a concave shape causing cab settle, but the truck was usually a very heavy spec dump truck used hard. Wasn't too bad of looking truck if it's in your driveway. Green with red frame? Lettering should come off pretty easily. Rob

They will be different as they are cut somewhat to the underside of the hood contour. I purchased some heavy rubberized fabric from a vendor in Wisconsin, or Michigan a couple years ago that was an OEM supplier to the car builders. I'll get in the file and see if I can come up with something. You can cut the stuff with heavy scissors. Rob

I'll talk to "Momma" and if you never hear from me again, you know her answer. Rob

This computer does not have good resolution and I'm half blind anyways........ Look at the size holes in the cable ends. Positive is always larger than negative. Always has been on a top post cell. Rob

That is a nice service manual but appears to be newer than the B series trucks. There will still be some very useful information contained within but a TS-442 series, (early) is really what will help you out. Rob

I have a diagram at the shop I will fax and post to make it easy. If I remember correctly on battery positive post will go to the body of the starter motor. The other post of this same battery will connect to one post of the series/parallel switch. The second battery negative post will connect to the other terminal on the series/parallel switch, and the final terminal will connect to the threaded stud on the starter motor. There is a small jumper wire from one of the battery terminals, (negative, I think) that will attach to a small terminal on the series/parallel switch used for control function. This little wire supplies pull in current for the contactor when you mash the starter button. The main contactor, (internal) will pull a large copper disc against silvered contacts essentially putting the batteries into a parallel configuration and upping the starter voltage to 24VDC to spin the starter motor. Upon release of the starter button, the contactor releases and and batteries are once again put in a parallel configuration for 12VDC operation. My memory isn't quite what it used to be but that seems to be the way I remember it. Rob

That is the very old style Delco "845" series/parallel switch. If you look closely at your battery cables the positive post of the cable will have a larger hole in it. One of the positive cables will also run to the frame of the truck. Did the truck as you remember use two, or four batteries? This would make a difference physically, but not electrically how they wired the batteries into the system. Rob

Think I got it fixed. Don't know what went wrong. Rob

I seen these on ebay this morning. http://cgi.ebay.com/MACK-TRUCK-EMBLEMS-/330584922695?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf8659a47 Rob

Thanks Barry. Don't need no more of that garbage. I've seen the same post on other automotive boards. Rob

Nature of the beast. They are built that way if not a Western. Rob

I like to use Cascade dishwashing soap as it does not foam near as much as others. I would run two passes of two hours each, (this is what I do in trucks) and flush clean. Not to hijack or butt in but this is what I've done for years. Rob

Shoulda seen her before she started that grapefruit thing!! Rob

I owe on nothing and eliminating internet SPAM is my passion. Time for banning. Rob

I almost missed it but Happy Birthday Neil! Rob

I agree but a nice set of floats would look good on the steer. I do however prefer Budd style on the steer with that hood style. The lack of chrome on that one gives a strong work appearance. Rob

Personally I like a single stack on the right side but that is my preference. Dual stacks look nice also. Glad you took that pump off till ready for use. Rob

http://desmoines.craigslist.org/grd/2477069368.html Rob