Rob

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NON-SMOKING-MACK-TRUCK-USED-RICE-FARM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dRPSIQ252BSIQ26ituQ3dUCPQ252BUAQ252BMAGEXPQ252BUCIQ252BFICSQ26otnQ3d9Q26pmodQ3d150624255543Q26poQ3dLPVQ252BLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d1056832610914372748QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em263QQitemZ290581582475 Still hasn't met the reserve however. Rob

That truck has several areas of concern for me. I would question/scrutinize the descriptions closely. The trailer is bent in the main frame. Look at the landing gear and the angle it is at. Minor rust in the trailer sidewalls? Rob

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MACK-RW713-SUPERLINER-HEAVY-HAUL-TRUCK-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem415b4b9c0aQQitemZ280704556042QQptZCommercialQ5fTrucks

I see he posted up at 7:42 last evening updating Mark's comment, but did not join in any further discussions. Come to think of it, I hadn't seen my gorilla around the shop yesterday neither. Quite shameless to swipe her while I'm at work. Rob

I was thinking something along the lines of foaming maranade or something like that. Rob

I would expect no less. Rob

Think I gave $250 for my "Back Buddy" from a retiring mechanic. You are correct in OTC being "proud" of their tools. The front casters were shot but that is about the only thing I've done to it. I did get the arms for all the different hub styles so didn't need to fabricate any adapters with this thing. Mine is the original and the current model is "Back Buddy II". I this one better cause it uses a hand wheel for elevation as opposed to a crank. It is smoother in operation also. With a hydraulic motorcycle jack I'm sure it would be easy to make a top plate with arms to bolt to a specific hub and it would be good for a single purpose. I like this thing cause atter the hub is removed, it can be laid it on it's back and the inner seal is facing straight up and very east to get to. For years I used a wide saddle floor jack for this job but as I get older, fatter, much lazier, and increasingly hunchback, I look for an easy way out to things. Rob

Gotta admire a guy willing to work on his own stuff no matter the level of experience, or age. I gotta say you done good and have something to be proud of. It appear you got things done prior to things like "life" got in the way. Good job. Rob

It's not the acquistion costs but the contract exit expenditures to deal with that are the greatest setback. Rob

If the number on the door matches the number stamped into the frame you have an original door the truck was built with. The frame number is the vin for the truck. From the serial number the truck was built as a turbocharged B75 series using lightweight aluminum components, and was a tandem straight truck. Were there a "T" following the "S" in the vin, the truck would have been a tandem tractor. The "3" denotes turbocharging. Of course you could have glad hands and trolley valve added for tractor usage also. The number 1364 is the sequential production number assigned to the chassis. However in those days, Mack would custom build you a truck any way you wanted it so there was some variance available. I have a couple of B models like that but no B75 series. Rob

That was a good smooth transmission if taken care of. One of my B models had one but it's long gone. Still have the cylinder and linkage for it someplace. I purchased/acquired the truck minus the trans and installed a double over triplex. Rob

Yup. That's why I purchased a "Back Buddy" by OTC tools. This works slick and supports the weight easily. Keeps trips to the chiropractor down to a minimum too. Rob

I always like an air shift two speed rear. They were fast and sure. An electric I didn't like quite so well cause they were sloppy. Rob

Hi Leslie, this is not too bad of a job but things are heavy. Get yourself a wide saddle floor jack and don't be afraid to use it. You will remove the tire and wheel assembly first of course. Back the "S" cam adjustment off to release any drag of the shoes on the drums or beneath the ridge that is cut into the edge of the drum so you can pull it off. Next remove your center cap to drain the oil from the hub. There are a couple of different style locking mechanisims to front hub retention but they are easy to figger out. Try to keep the drum/hub assembly centered so it doesn't "cock" as this will compromise the inner seal if side load weight is applied. Pull the drum straight off the spindle, (this is heavy with the spoke attached). You will now see a large spring that pulls the top of the brake shoes together against the "S" cam head itself. Remove this spring, then remove the retention plates and clips holding the bottom of the front shoes to the backing plate. You do not need to remove the shoes or the last step if you want to remove the backing plate and shoes as a unit. These have bolts that run through the backing plate and spindle hub. Remove these and the air line connecting the brake cannister and the assembly will lift off the axle. Most B models had a bolt and washer in the end of the "S" cam and some spacers to center the slack adjuster. Remove these items and the cam itself will push out the bushings in the carrier. Some help with a dead blow hammer may be needed to get the cam broke free from it's slack but not always. If the sealing ring that is part of the spindle has a groove cut into it and you want to replace, it will be expensive. There is no "speedi sleeve" type repair that I've found. You have to replace that ring and it will surprise you as to cost. The king pins are pretty straightforward if you've ever done a set before. Take the retainers loose in the top, and push the pin out the bottom of the axle/spindle assembly. Good luck, I thought I had photos of when I took mine apart but must be on another computer. Rob

Maybe they thought it was faster than a camel. Rob

My RL797L has a TRDL 107 trans you split every gear. I really like this trans. Didn't know Fuller made a copy to the Mack style which I assume it is. Rob

I've heard the term but have never seen one. What is different from a standard 10 speed? Rob

When "Momma" hits me with the frying pan, my empty skull rings like the liberty bell. Rob

Or put it in from the back, reach up and grab a handful or tit, and whisper in her ear, "you are the worst *&^% I ever had before trying to stay on for eight seconds? Rob

I don't want to hear nothin more about no damned "C" model Mack cause I'll have to go get me one. Don't quite know how I'd saddle the pain that would cause however cause "Momma" just got daughter a new/old cast iron skillet and said she couldn't wait to "try it out". This is another of those subjects that "can't be good". Rob

Do like I do. Skip a few meals, donate a few body parts no longer used, and as a last resort: beg, plead, promise (falsely), and as a very last resort if she won't give in; let her know it's more important than she is. Then "run". Rob

Yeah, well I think he ought to just give it to me for stablemates to the ones I already have. This is of course is partially due to my cheery disposition, and willingness to "share my girls". Hell he could have each for a night at no charge. See, "what a guy" I am. Rob

You are absolutely correct in that observation. However I wouldn't doubt that transmission has a LOT of wear on the input gear and mainshaft as they were never designed to take a side load such as that chain drive has impressed through it. It has to add at least 1/2 million more to the basic core value. Rob

Uh oh. Plagurizing Freightrain's tag line. This can't be good LOL. Rob

I agree with Ron. You've got a buckboard to start with. Ensure your tires are round, balanced, and if spokes, mounted straight to the hub assembly. Rob