Rob

That'd be great!! Rob

Tom, you forgot the contrasting color coordinating and accessorizing diaper now sported by the gorilla. I got tired of cleaning up gorilla shit in the shop; just doesn't look professional. Rob

Bobby Gilbreath, (bobgil on the board) has a 63 C609 he is working with money permitting. It runs really well with a END-711 engine. Last I seen the truck he had retrofitted the brakes to modern style "Q" series from and "R" model, and built up a nice pintle hitch and plate. I don't think he had the driveshaft made at that time because the wheelbase was altered. Rob

Bobby Gilbreath, (bobgil on the board) has a 63 C609 he is working with money permitting. It runs really well with a END-711 engine. Last I seen the truck he had retrofitted the brakes to modern style "Q" series from and "R" model, and built up a nice pintle hitch and plate. I don't think he had the driveshaft made at that time because the wheelbase was altered. Rob

Tonight I removed the clutch and flywheel assembly from the rear of the engine. Will take them in tomorrow afternoon to be machined and get a new clutch assembly. Gonna see if I can drive the truck the first of next week. I went ahead and ordered a new set of transmission insolators through PAI cause these were replaced with the last clutch job. The hardware is all good but the rubber is slightly crushed from usage. Less than $30.00 for the insolators and new nylock nuts, so not bad at all. Rather not have problems so spending the money up front. Talked to my buddies who own a hydraulic shop in town and they are going to put a kit into the seeping pump and make a couple of hydraulic hoses to stop the leaks. They say the hoses are marginal after about 30 years of use! Rob

Got a call from the machine shop this afternoon. Drums are done and were no problems cleaning up. They had forgotten to "hot tank" them after machining so that will perform that task tomorrow. Maybe I'll get them painted over the weekend. Rob Drums are done and look pretty good. They did clean up nicely and are round. Also are right at the wear limit for a working truck so this actually would DOT if needed, (won't be). Am dropping all six of them, a few grille shells, headlamp panels, fenders, inner panels, filler panels, and many small parts off to the blaster tomorrow to pick up on Saturday morning. Also took two sets of grille shutters apart to clean up so I can rebuild into one good set. I only have one good set of the older style shutters and a few sets of the newer style. Cash payment makes the job cheap enough I can't justify doing it myself on top of being old, fat, and lazy. I'll get this thing to rolling again with all new wheel end and brake components, then get the neighbor kid to pressure wash everything to earn a few bucks. What do you guys use for degreaser/crud cutter that is good? I'm not interested in environmentally friendly, I want what works. The truck itself is "green" so I don't need to be. Rob

Guess I'm not very shallow. Rob

Yup. Drips and dribbles are no longer a thing of the future. Rob

Our country is in bad shape with government needing a "clean sweep" and overhaul. The first step to saving any business is to "stop the hemmoraging". This has yet to take place with the current bodies in force. Until the ideology of spending more than you take in is curtailed, nothing can change. Continuous and increasing taxation of the working class is not the solution, and neither is support for other entities when your own house is out of order. A quick look at unemployment figures is justification enough for needed change. Of course changing the mindset of "buy now, pay later" as a basis of your economy in wrong at the core, and America needs to learn to live within it's means as a whole. Rob

Use a natural bristle brush, (not plastic, or nylon) with the acetone, and dry with a blow gun. Don't wipe with a rag as the rag will leave minute fibers behind that inhibit a good bond. There are also chemicals available that will soften the plastic to promote a more thorough bond for the repair. Rob

and a low refrigerant charge will do the same as a precautionary measure to the system. Rob

I like this one. http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/rnr/2466521022.html Rob

That is a trade name. There are many names for glass fiber plastic material. Any auto body repair materials supplier will be able to help you. I tend to like the epoxy based glues/resins for repair and bonding of fiber reinforced materials. Don't rely solely on polyester resin to facilitate a repair as it will not self adhere, or "melt into" the parent substrate. Epoxies excel at this. The urethanes are good also but not as good as the epoxies. The main benefit to the urethane based products is speed of cure. Rob

I tried that once with a long nap roller and brushes for the paint, and a pancake spatula for the "Bondo". Didn't work out so well. Maybe you could learn me something along the way. Welcome to the site. Best get some photos up as "Other Dog" gets bored if he don't got no pictures to work with. Rob

I drove one of those a few years back about the same length but a tandem. Geez, that was a rough riding SOB without any weight on the platter. The fixed seat did it no justice neither. Rob

Look at the arm and back fat on that. Imagine what she'll look like in 25 years. Be looking for the light switch screaming "Turn it off", please god, "Turn it off"! Rob

Well, to my undiscerning eye, I'd say it's from Jersey. Does that count? Rob

If you have cast aluminum brake shoe bodies with bolt on friction surfaces, and wear pads on the ends of the shoes, you might have problems. If you have stamped steel shoes with riveted linings you will be fine. These will use rollers on the ends of the shoes which are common. Typically they also use nylon, or plastic type bushings which are easily replaced. In the B series production run, all bushings were steel backed bronze. These nowadays are expensive as they are not near as commonplace as once were. Not to be disrespectful but every truck I've taken apart and worked with has had wear in the cams, bushings, and hardware of the brake system no matter the vintage, or brake type. This is a normal wear item. Granted, I'm a little extreme when it comes to maintaining or reconditioning something for myself, but I'm not about to place anybody in harms way to save a few dollars on a repair. As has been stated time and time again on this board: brakes are something you don't slight. Getting your project to stop is just as important as getting it to start. Sometimes even more so. Rob

"Wet Stacking" is not really too detrimental that I know of but it can make a mess out of surrounding cars, trucks, trailers, and the like when it blows out of the pipe. The puff limiter is a device to limit the fuel rack travel internal to the injection pump until the boost from the turbocharger rises. It then allows more rack travel and conversly, more fuel and power for/from the engine. Many disconnect them but watch your pyrometer under a pull as the exhaust can get hot. Typically the puff limiter being disconnected or defunct will not cause the problems you experience. Not getting the engine to a good operating temperature is about the only way I've seen if timing is correct. Rob

Hey!! I"m from the great and proud state of ILLINOIS. Let me be the first to tell you that there are NO CROOKED, or CORRUPT POLITICIANS in our government!!! It's all a figment of your imagination. That's the way I see it so must be the way it is. Forget about that Blago moron. Rob

Sounds like you are not getting the exhaust hot enough to thoroughly burn the fuel and this is called "wet stacking". A common problem if the engine does not work hard or is very easily worked. Try to put some weight on the truck and use hard acceleration for a little bit to clean it up internally. Rob

Won't let you run it in the house? Well that sucks. Rob

On a B series if you are referring to a cab mount just inside where the cowl panel meets the floor there will be a hole which is typically covered by a rubber plug. You will hold the nut with a box end wrench and zip the bolt out using a socket wrench from inside the cab. Rob

The 1973 model year introduced the interspacial galactic time modulating denebulizer that operated through photosynthesis proximity at the atomic level. This system was foolproof in operation but the damn government banned it's sale as an available add on feature early in the production run. Had this option continued to be readily available, phototachometers, sattelite tracking devices, scalehouses, DOT, and other impairments to the lowly trucker's life, would have been eliminated due to the matter/antimatter properties of this device. In laymans terms: the loaded truck drives into a denebulizing facility, is then placed in the antimatter state and transported to the end user of the commodity where the process is reversed, and matter restored to it's previous state. The now empty truck is then driven back to the point of origin for reloading. Quick, easy, and completely green. I can only image what this option on a truck would be worth nowadays. Rob

Here is something for your analysis: Which paper works best for "cling ons"; White Cloud, or Charmin? Rob