Rob

None listed on ebay tonight. Here is a link to a vendor: http://www.durhamseats.com/bostrompages/vikingtbar.html Rob

No need to be afraid. It just takes persistence. Your truck being a single drive axle will be less hassle to rebuild. If you send me your cams I'll get them rebuilt should you run into the same problems I did. Everything on the braking end of this truck was just plain worn out requiring replacement and I absolutely refuse to half ass any type of repair on anything I do. I built and ran my business on that philosphy many years. For the occasional "hobby use" your truck will get, a lot of the parts can be reused that I had no option on. As Glenn mentioned you can supply measurements of the hardware needed swapping to newer stuff, or just modify later model truck spiders that accept "Q" style brakes which are commonplace. Besides, I like yakking about "old trucks" with the guys at the parts counter. Many of my visits are casual and no transactions take place. Rob

I still have a few of my old models and toys from many years ago also. Don't really have any display shelves or anything of the like but I have many of the real things to work, and spend money on. This is where the dog house comes into play. "Momma" really don't care what I do cause she knows I'm not chasing skirt, or holding down a barstool someplace. If I'm not at work, or pecking on the keyboard at home, I'm wasting time in the shop on one of my "toys" as they are referred to. Rob

Has my admiration for certain. They are kinda going though a hot, dry drought right now I'm told. Since my bear disappeared again, I'm sure he has found something to keep him busy. Rob

I got lost in the original equation. Rob

They are on ebay quite a bit. Around $300.00 new in black covering. Very good seat. Heavy SOB's to lift and carry by oneself. Rob

Hi Glenn, I spent literally hours pouring through catalogs trying to find replacements for the originals. I went through old Rockwell, Meritor, Arvin/Meritor, Batco, BWP, and a couple of others and all the mating cams I needed were extinct in parts supply outlet(s). The originals were down almost 1/8th inch on the wear surfaces where the cam rotates. The bronze bushings in the aluminum spiders actually worn through on a couple of them. My uncle determined the cams were probably of a 1045 carbon steel so that is the filler material in which was used. I think he, (like you) has prolly forgotten more about his profession than I'll ever know. On a snap gauge the surface hardness of these things is about a 48-50 on a Rockwell "C" scale, (damned hard). I was able to obtain all brand new hardware by "robbing" partial kits from numerous vendors my preferred truck parts store talks with, meaning even their competitors. It's funny when somebody mentions an old Mack, all seem to know it's me they're speaking of around here. The support I get for these old trucks if phenomenal at times from vendors. Getting the wear surface rings for the front hub seals was another ordeal in itself. CR no longer offered the one I need, and Stemco made them for my truck in almost two weeks. Quite expensive too....... Almost $250.00 for the pair!! The originals had a groove cut into them from wear about .060 deep. There was no repair sleeve/seal kit available so really no options except to replace which was more cost effective than rebuilding the existing parts. The rear seals are CR of which Herb strongly recommended. I did get the replacement wear rings and proper seals for that application which were still available although needed to be ordered. Rob

I had my uncle build up these cams and grind them smooth in his machine. He built up splines, gears, shafting, etc. working at Caterpillar and is quite good at it. They look really good and should work well. Rob

If you fill with helium, she'll be lighter riding "cowboy". Rob

If the main drive gear were not turning there would be no action to operate the transfer pump so no fuel flow. From the description, there is plenty of fuel transfer it is just not getting through the injectors. I'd think possibly the linkage internal to the governor housing that operates the fuel rack has discombobulated itself. This is an old post and hopefully the owner has already figgered the problem out. Rob

My posts are still active. Rob

Glad you are not upset. However I did purchase a roll of "Super Seal" self vulcanizing, aviation quality repair tape to ensure you never have a problem with the apparatus in the future. Rob

Still timeless........ Rob

Yeah, that's right. She came home with "Momma" after stopping at some store in the mall. Says "Happy Father's Day" to me and hands me a box with a model of an R model Mack and Fruehauf tank trailer in 1/32 size. Then she really rubs it in that the model is rated for assembly by eight year olds and above so I "should" be able to handle it. I wanted to "back hand" the smartalec but "Momma" was right behind here holding something so I was scared, (petrified really) and did nothing. Told "Momma" I was gonna put it in the china cabinet and was promptly told to get my own glass case for my Mack "shit". Left me wonderin why everybody has to be so mean to me...... Rob

Pulled the input shaft out of the defective transmission today. The bushing that is supposed to be in the end of the input shaft that centers the mainshaft running down the middle of the trans was not existent. These things are such an interference fit they would never come out so I assume the last clutch job performed and the input shaft replaced, it was not installed. The shaft is an OEM Fuller part and they did not used to supply the bushing in the input shaft but do now. If this is the case it's probably been 15 years since the clutch was replaced. I temporarily installed the worn input shaft onto the defective transmission and both the mainshaft vertical play, and input shaft wobble are virtually gone. This bushing, (or lack thereof) my be the culprit to the failure of the transmission but I don't know. The truck parts store gave me a bushing for the input shat and I pressed it into a new aftermarket shaft I have and installed the same after checking for clearance of the oiling hole. All went together well with a new gasket/seal setup. I've still not swapped the output yoke for the driveline but that is about it left to do. I'll pick up the flywheel and new clutch assembly tomorrow and try to put the truck back together over the weekend depending on "Momma's" schedule for me. Rob

Hauled the brake drums and spokes into the machine shop today to have them turned and boiled/cleaned. Gonna be really bright red when they are done. I had them sitting outside under a tarp for over a year so they have flash rust on the friction surface that I don't want to drive into the freshly relined brake shoes. The guy says they are right at the wear limit. He thinks they will polish up nicely but it will be the last time they're able to be worked with. This is a hobby truck only, (of course) and will probably never need brakes again so I'm not worried. They are going to do the drums for $20.00 each so this is a right fair deal that includes the hot tank after turning. After finally getting all the brake hardware, bushings, seals, felts, pins, and retainers rounded up over the last 1.5 years the truck is finally starting to see the light of day. I really want to reclaim the real estate this thing on jack stands takes. After I get it rolling again another buddy is gonna let me use his 25,000# truck lift to get it raised above my head so I can pressure wash the living shit out of the underside before stripping down and blasting clean. I've had enough of this grease shit to last me for awhile. I also ordered new front casters for my OTC "Back Buddy" brake drum cart. The old casters are broken down from age and use and do not roll easily. I'm not about to start lifting brake drums again. Too many trips to the chiropractor in the past that I'd rather leave in the past. When I removed the drums from this truck it was over a month, (literally) before I could stand up straight again without wincing from the pain. Rob

That is the point of "flooding" the evaporator coil. At the example not all of the liquid refrigerant that has entered the evaporator has "flashed" into a gas and therfore no longer rejects heat. Theoretically, you want this point of flash gas to be between 2/3, and 3/4 down the path of refrigerant flow through the evaporator. The expansion device controls this function. It is sized appropriately for the size of the evaporator coil. This keeps the evaporator from freezing up as the water, (humidity) in the air passes through the fins of the coil. Head, (high side) and suction, (low side) pressures vary depending on a multitude of factors including those mentioned earlier. Compound this with dirty coils, lack of adequate airflow through the coils, differing blowe speeds, varying engine and compressor speeds in automotive applications, many variables exist. Typically in an automotive application an 11 degree superheat using R134A is ideal and easily attained with proper maintenance of the system. This means clean coils and adequate airflow across them. Usually if you have over 325 psi on the discharge side of the compressor I look for a restriction someplace in the system as this amount of pressure is seldom required given my limited experience. Rob

I usually charge by the superheat method. Eliminates the guesswork no matter the ambient temperature, humidity or varying factors associated with HVAC. Helps pinpoint problems in the system also if you know how to interpret the data. Rob

I've never seen B model series trucks with doors that fit flush in the jambs unless the door edges unless customized. All of my trucks do not set flush but most are close. Rob

Two different oil companies. I do believe "EXXON" purchased the rights to "ESSO". in the late 60's to early 70's. Rob

You need to use either "oilite" bronze, or SAE 660 bushing material in this application as they are oil impregnated during the manufacturing process. If standard brass is used, the lifespan is short if the pin turns with the pivot of the door. Of course it is this pivotal arc that wears the hinge in the first place. Rob

The future is dark for the USA with the current state of matters in whole. Rob

Seen this today. http://apnews.myway.com/article/20110623/D9O1HG5G0.html Rob

I don't think there would be enough parent material remaining in the hinge to support the door properly after they are drilled to insert the bronze bushing. It is a good idea but the area the hinge pins run through is too thin to enlarge much and retain the necessary strength to support the weight of the door while it swings. The practice I've used several times is to remove the hinges from the truck, jig them up straight in a drill press, and bore/ream the holes just large enough to be round. I then take a section of water hardening drill rod (W1 grade) about .010 undersize and cut to length plus about 3/8th inch to form the head needed times the amount of hinge pins needed, then warm these pins with a neutral flame using a torch. A temperature crayon is very useful for bringing the part to between 1300-1400 degrees farehient temperature. These parts are then plunged into clean water that is about 120 degrees and "swished around" for 10 seconds. Then place the pins on a cookie sheet in the kitchen oven, (get your wife's or significant other's permission first) at 350 degrees for about and hour, take them ou,t and let them cool. The pins will be very hard and durable and will never give you a problem again. You could also skip the hardening process and just press fit a slightly oversize bronze bushing into the now round holes and drill a greasing hole into the hinge pivot area and through the bronze bushing. Using a small grease gun, (such as for electric tools) will yield excellent service life of the part also if kept lubricated. Rob

That shaft will only be case hardended to a depth probably not exceeding .015 in depth. This is why I recommend only a single spot weld for retention. I do think what you are proposing with workin in your application as the gear has no place to walk to as it drives the air compressor through it's associated drive coupler. Rob