Rob

The PTO is a "340X" series Chelsea and is manual in operation. I also did check out the slave valve on both transmissions and transferred the original to the replacement as it verified good and was in use. Also checked the pressure regulator and it was right at 65psi by my non precision guage in the shop. Rob

Take you number and place in the unemployment line? Rob

Glad to hear Neil. I just couldn't get anything to come together for me as I have a truck out there I need brought home. Rob

I've heard that washing your face and hair in milk is beneficial also. Maybe the women will be interested. Rob

That setup never did make any kind of sense to me. It is the same setup used on the V10 Chrysler engine with the harmonic balancer. You can't put an electric clutch pump belt driven by the engine due to severe damage to the crankshaft snout and balancer from slippage and ultimately, catastrophic failure. A woodruff key would be my choice of repair after resizing the bore of the gear, and diameter of the shaft if not welded solid. I would then "spot" the gear into position with a single weld. Rob

I'm surprised to see "AMOCO" as I thought all stations through the 60's and into the late 70's were still "Standard Oil". Rob

Got the old, and the new transmissions cleaned up a bit today. The former transmission was a grungy mess and I took care of that with 200 degree water and 2000 psi. The greasy mess inside the clutch housing really liquified and flew out with the pressure. By the time I'd finished, (bout 1/2 hour) I was legitimately filthy. It is that sticky "goo" that one needs to clean up with solvent as regular hand soap won't really touch it. I bridled up the trans with a chain hanging from my skid steer fork and washed away. The outer case is red oxide in color but you couldn't tell it prior to the wash. The only reason I went to the trouble of this clean up is I will take this one apart to see how it operates, and what went wrong. One thing I noticed right off is the timing marks for the gearset are not aligned. The left side countershaft is about three teeth out of sync with the mating gear on the mainshaft, and the right countershaft is about five teeth off. I would think these were to align together? They do not appear to spin independent. I also looked down the top of the case to the forward most magnet in the bottom. It is covered in shavings about 1/2 inch deep. Using a lighted mirror I could see the other magnet in the front case and it is just as full. Using a rope like a sling, I can move the mainshaft up about 1/16th of an inch at the front so the front bearings must be shot. All the sliding clutches are showing significant wear to the faces with the forward most one having only about 25% of it's engagement faces left. The mating gear splines are also worn out. Must have had a rough life in usage. This would be a very expensive unit to rebuild given the amount of wear that can be seen although I have no experience. The only difference I can discern from the RTO-12513, and the RTOF-12513 is the forward most shift fork has less of a bend offset for the sliding clutches due to placement of the shift tower. I have new shift forks for the RTO-12513 but the shift fork that is different is in fine shape from the original cover. I've going to use the original top cover without taking anything apart. As rhasler suggested I did rig up and applied shop air to both transmissions while on pallets on the floor, and shifted each through all gears. I then removed the shifter tower from the old transmission to listen for possible air leakage causing the oily mess up front. With shop air supplied to the inlet, the air compressor running in the background, and traffic running down the hiway, I've got my ear plastered in the top of this transmission. While listening with great intent and focus, swearing I hear nothing, all of a sudden a sound starts like one letting the air out of a balloon. This sounds much like the rapid rush of air past a diaphragm vibrating violently. When I turn my head to listen with the other ear, I discover "Mouser 1" with his damned nose stuck in the oil filler hole sniffing the gear oil and purring loudly!! The boy has a loud motor at any time but I didn't know he was in the shop. After "shooing" him off, there was no air leakage to be discerned. I pulled the top cover from the donor trans and started to install the other shift cover but it wouldn't set down level. Removing it again I discovered why; the interlock piston that moves with the slave valve was broken from someone not aligning things before the cover was installed. I removed the other one from the original transmission and thinking the old slave valve was proven good, installed it after bolting the cover down. I then checked everything for function upon replumbing. I then pressure washed the replacement trans again to get the grease from my hands off of it. Tomorrow I'll pick up the PTO rebuild kit, go through it, and install onto the transmission. Should have the replacement clutch tomorrow also. Machine shop says they'll surface the flywheel while I wait so hope to have the truck roadworthy again over the weekend. Also while the trans is out I've noticed a seepage leak on the power steering pump and hose fittings. This appears easy to get to with the trans out so I'll prolly get that looked into also. The pump looks like a Vickers V20 series so should be easy to get pieces/parts for locally. On another note. I've finally obtained "S" cam bushings for my B-67 project and am going to assemble the brakes later in the week. I called where I had all the brakes relined asking about turning the drums and got a real shock. They want $7.50 per inch of drum surface to machine them!! The rears are six inch wide, and the fronts four inch. That is $45.00 for each rear, and $30.00 each for the fronts for a grand total of $240.00 just to turn drums. I think that is absurd so I'll borrow my uncle's lathe and either do it myself, or just have him do it for me. I should have known as they were almost twice as expensive on the same Haldex/Anchor 24/24 spring brake, and T16 service chambers I'd purchased elsewhere. Still have to get the flexible hoses and relay valves, (R-12, R-14) to plumb. Am going to plastic on this truck. but will splice into the existing copper. Another thing on this B67, (I really like this truck) is I'm seriously thinking of installing faster ratios in the rears. I have a good set of 4.17's I could use out of a 72 R model. These were known good but haven't been run in about 10 years when I drove the truck home about 70 miles. It will run right at 65mph on the governor now with the 5.77 rears, but I'd like 75mph to stay with traffic on the flatlands if I have the motor for it. The truck has been on stands since Dec, 2009 so it is time to come down. Today's ramble finally finished. Rob

A teacher at a high school in New Orleans asks one of her brightest students to use the word "handsome" in a sentence. The girl named Latisha says, "Sometimes when I be suckin' Leroy's soul pole, my jaw gets sore and I hafta use my handsome." The quality of our educational system sometimes brings a tear to your eye! Rob

and the blend door(s). Rob

I have not taken the top shift cover apart yet. It does look like I can just drop the cover complete onto the donor transmission from my uncalibrated eye. Citing that I do have the shift blocks new and the current ones have a bit of wear, I'd like to replace them as to not have the noise of resonance up the shifter. I also have the isolator kit and plan to cut the shifter handle to install/weld this in. This is the first Mack with a Fuller I've worked with, so learning a lot here. Rob

Very nice turnout/completion. Rob

Well I didn't get to clean my transmissions tonight as I feel fast asleep with some much needed "beauty rest", (did no good I'm told). Will pick up the pace tomorrow morning as I'm off all next week doing the vacation thing...... I will change out the input shaft on the donor transmission as it's original is noticably deformed from usage. All looks good internal as far as sliding clutches and hard parts. Taking into account what rhasler has said about "pressurizing the case internally", I will pick up and install a new case vent, then bench check the air system prior to installation. I can't find my socket that fits the large nut retaining the drive yoke, and need to look some more for this. Thought it was kept with the large torque wrench in the "shop box", but apparently not. Never did locate my shop made weldment plate, nor get the patterned one completed. Actually did use the white plate supplied with the jack and it worked remarkably well. No hint of slippage at all. Used a four ton porto power to jack the rear of the engine and block under the oil pan securely and let the "cribbing" support the weight. Once the trans started to slide back, I adjusted the fore and aft tilt of the jack saddle, and it slid right out without problem. Once down low between the rails, I removed the side mounts from the flywheel housing for clearance to slide the trans out around the fuel tank, and step weldment. Was relieved more parts needing removal was unneeded. Tomorrow after the parts run I need to drag two B model chassis out of the way in the back of the shop. Somehow my cherry picker got buried behing the RL755LST. This truck is behind a couple incomplete others. Really don't use this much anymore so upon last shop cleaning it was put away first and I guess you know the rest of that story......... I may use the skid steer loader and chain unless I get energetic, but this however is unlikely due to xtreme laziness I possess. Is there any difference internally between an RTO-12513, and an RTOF-12513? The trans from the truck is the RTOF series and everything is good and tight in the top cover. With the exception of just a bit of concave wear in the shift blocks the shifter actually bears against, all looks good. This is not bad enough to require attention but if the parts I have already including forks etc. are the same, I'll change them out and keep the originals for spares. Don't want Mark to feel left out so here is another photo of my R795 in various stage of completion: Thanks, Rob

Here is a three part video on Youtube. Rob

Got the tranny out and on the floor. It took me longer to get the bolt out of the floor pan behind the accelerator pedal that snapped the captive nut loose than the big parts of the job. I didn't want to hurt anything; (these bolts recess in the floor panel). The nut is hidded behind a welded brace that I didn't want to cut loose so couldn't get to it. Didn't even have to remove any fuel tanks which are over 1/2 full each. After getting the trans out from under the truck I noticed the input shaft looks good but is questionable. It has about 3/8th inch of up and down movement where the replacement is much tighter. The wear surface for the clutch brake is worn where the friction material has worn a recess into the face. The bronze bushing in the end of the throwout bearing has a groove or depression worn into it about 7/16ths wide, (rear to front) from what I think is the input shaft walking. I've not pulled the clutch out yet but will most likely replace it after seeing this. The splines areal look very good with little wear but the donor trans has a new one awaiting installation. I assume there is an oil seal in the front of the trans cause the inside of the clutch housing, (transmission 1/2) is loaded with oil. The clutch and pressure plate area(s) are dry. I'm assuming this has a 14.5" clutch setup as the flywheel is the "bowl" style. I also figger the pilot bearing must but junk to allow the input shaft to move/deflect at all. I had to steal the "gorilla tape" from Other Dog's blow up doll he left here for repairs, but I'll put it back, "I promise". Didn't want to leave the openings uncovered. I couldn't find any other in the shop, (Sorry Tom) to use. Gonna get the steam cleaner after both transmissions later tonight. Out of all the conversation about this job not one of you "professional" mechanics mentioned anything about possibly getting dirty. Let me tell you this is not an easy job for a guy to do and keep a white tee shift clean. Soon as "Momma" seen me, I was given a bar of lye soap and ordered to the wash tub in the back yard. She said something about "smellun funny". Might have been that green synthetic lube from the trans dripping on my skull when I was removing bolts underneath. It was running out of my right ear. She got that taken care of with a toothpick. The grease was attracted to a giant "dust ball" that was living in there. Upon spiking it out with the toothpick, we both felt better. Rob

probably had a tachograph at one time. Rob

The rock was not supplied by "Acme", so it has to be different. Rob

Hi Rod, great to see you post again. I'd wondered about the gearing thing as you mentioned it prior. Did you ever get a powe steering setup going for the truck? Rob

A good muffler would help tremendously to quiet an engine. Rob

I won't tell "Momma" about this episode. She is likely to think of a way to pulverize my skull with a speedometer head hanging from a cable. Rob

If it is the electronic type with the mechanical readout for the odometer, it needs taken apart, or run an awful long time on the bench. If it is the mechanical type it will also require the same as mentioned prior. If the 100% electronic with digital odometer, these are calibrated on the test bench with the mileage being "burned" into an eprom chip. Rob

I know a bunch of the guys from Daily Express. I've painted several cars and trucks belonging to them. I really don't know about Keen Transport other there is a different kind of arrogance prevelant sometimes. They do have a nice little MB Mack tractor I'd like to have....... It's used to shag around the yard. What kind of trailer you pulling, beam, or pontoon? A D9 usually has the a/c hanging off the back of the cab due to height. Add a ripper, and it really gets heavy. Rob

I didn't think they were still shipping from "SS" building. Thought all the tractors either went to Keen's, or Daily Express's yard in Morton before shipment. You get tangled up in E. Peoria it can be a mess when oversize. The tractors are so much larger than they were just a few years ago. I live about 23 miles west of Peoria. Give a call when you're in the area. 309-219-2070. I always answer the phone, much to my chagrin. Rob

Did you grab the 9 in Morton? Your photo looks like the exit at S. Grand Ave., (rt. 29), or Clear Lake, (rt. 72). Rob

That one really sounds good too. Has a 237 Mack engine and quadraplex transmission. Rob

I remember them well. Shaffer's has several B series working. Here are a few I took in March. http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=18257&st=0&p=74152&fromsearch=1entry74152 Rob