Rob

Waitn on 11:30. We gonna "pitch a bitch" at 11:30. (Richard Pryor, 1976) Rob

I got my start in the autobody trades in 74. At that time Chevy bedsides were a complete bolt on affair. It took longer to get the box off the frame to change the bedside(s) than it took to do the job. Cab corners, door shells, fenders, bent hoods in the hinge area(s), radiator support, cab mounts, etc were all gone within three years for the most part. I think it was the 1977 model year they started to use "galvaneal" type steel which is still in use today. Trouble is when the steel is welded, the coating is burned away and rust has a foothold. Back in those days, it used to pay real well to replace the floor inside the cargo bed too. I built a jig to invert the bed and it made the job slick when spotting in the xmembers; paint was certainly easy too. I always like frame work on the pickups. A light tap in the frame horn and the whole frame would go "diamond", meaning one rail was further back than the other side. If the truck is blasted in the side, that side is most always short. Typically takes three towers on a rack or pulling system to correct the damage. I usually split the frame, straightened it up, butt weld back together, then weld the xmembers solid cause the rivets holding everything together have stretched. It was a much stiffer assembly when done than when built. However, if ever racked again, the frame is usually scrap. Used to be able to reframe a vehicle but no longer unless it is inside of year old and a high dollar unit. The cost is too great due to labor. Rob

It could be done quite easily. Think of how a pressure washer works; a coil of liquid flowing around and past a flame. Each pass absorbs heat from the flame. The process in reverse with a refrigeration coil extracting the heat from the fuel is easy citing the fuel flow is not fast at all. Additional cooling, or the amount of cooling, would be controlled the the number or turns to the coil. A small external mounted condening unit is the only extra that is needed if the fuel cooler system is not added onto the existing air conditioner and sharing the system. The same compressor is large enough to supply both systems. Rob

Those trucks cracked there under normal operation and time. Fixed several of them. The radius arm brackets also did a number on the frames in the same fashion. Shear loads are great and the damn frames are only about 10 gauge thick. Chevy was no better but they busted in different places like the front of the rear springs at the hangers. Rob

Been a Peterbilt; It'd been 1/2 height and on it's side. Commonly known as: "Laying down on the job". Rob

Don't think that is the same company. The Mack brothers were out of the company by the 1930's. Rob

I hope and pray it was scraped up and on it's way to the shop. Rob

I have the adjustment tools for the clutch and need to read up on the procedure to do it right. Sounds like the one piece clutch brake is favored so I think I'll go that way. Are there any ways experience has taught rather than a book procedure to adjust one of these things? Rob

Dropped the driveline for both the truck and winch today. Removed the floorpan, shifter tower after vacuming the top of the trans, and all bolts except one in the top center of the flywheel housing. I've started on the jack adapter using the supplied dimensions along with an illustration for a guide; also using the transmission to be installed for a template. Damned 1800 series driveline is heavy I'll tell you that much! So far not even a scratch or donation of blood to the cause but it's not over yet. I ordered a throwout fork and bushing set that should arrive tomorrow. I'm also going to install a two piece clutch brake as the one that is installed currently does not work at all. I know I should install a new clutch but this one doesn't slip, or chatter when empty. I hate doing something twice but really dislike throwing "Franklins" away if unneeded. Planning to rebuild the top cover this evening with new slider blocks and shifting forks. Probably not going to dump 28 pints of synthetic transmission lube into it right off. I have some SAE50W motor oil I'll start with. I know nothing about the trans other than it is said to be good. Rob

Thanks a lot for the photos. When I get this trans out I'll stand it up on the nose and make a template and go from there. Thinking this adapter will only be used for a single purpose, I'll probably weld the needed spacers to the vertical arms as to lessen loose parts to round up for use. I'm assuming the covers for the countershafts are removed to bolt this adapter to? Rob

Looks like the R model was over on it's left side. Tanker, fuel tank, and left front of the hood are all damaged from looks of an upset. Might have wasted the engine and hence the reason it's sitting. Rob

This one is the same way with the snap ring. I have thought the same thing as you with drilling and tapping but I've not done it. That really is a cheesy setup. The only real part I've not liked about the jack is the for and aft tilt not being a ratchet type affair. You have to to use an open end wrench that is kinda cumbersome as there is not much throw before you get into the frame of the jack. Rob

Should clean up nice. Rob

I remember seeing that part in the book that came with the jack. Thought about it really but didn't ever see myself trying to repair one of these things so went no further that the needed adapters for the Mack transmission. The white plate came with the jack and has never been used. I just grabbed it and threw it on the floor next to the jack. My shop built one is here someplace. Funny thing about this jack and why I purchased this particular one. The truck parts vendor I use sold this one, a Norco, Omega, and AFF, (American Forge and Foundry). All but the OTC were either Taiwan, or China produced. I told the manager I'd give $1750.00, (the cost of the Taiwan Omega brand) for the OTC out the door or buy none of them and order from Northern Hydraulics. He thought for a minute and let me have it for my price. I spend a few thousand dollars a year in there so he made the right choice. Been a really good jack with a stable platform that does not leak down. He wouldn't budge on the 10 ton air powered floor jack I wanted however. I make due with my 10 ton $100.00 ebay Lincoln special with thanks to Freightrain for picking it up and storing till I could get it picked up. Rob

I bought that jack new in 2000 and have used it a lot with Mack transmissions. Never have used the white plate but I cannot locate my shop made adapter that does as you say bolt the trans to the jack. I have a very smooth shop floor so if there is no gravel or oil dry, the jack rolls easily. The black adapters are not OTC but rather shop made also. I purchased those brackets but they were so simple I copied them and took the originals back. I think it cost me $20.00 to UPS them to Chicago but they were almost $250.00, (rediculous) to purchase. I have another shop made set that fit a single countershaft Mack trans much better than a "Maxitorque" of which those are for. If you could send me some detailed photos of the adapter you use. I'd like to have one as that would be very easy to attach. Mine is made to pull the complete trans as I've never had the auxilary section off while in the truck. Rob

Tell you what, before you go to changing out all the fluids I'd ensure the engine is not stuck, then crack the oil pan drain plug loose just to see if there is any water/coolant in the pan as it will settle to the bottom. If no contamination, I'd drain the fuel tanks, change the fuel filter(s), prime and fill the the fuel system with fresh fuel, install fresh batteries and get to cranking. I have several trucks that have sat longer than this one. If the liners or block is leaking there is no sense in wasting good oil. I say this following the statements that you think the engine is known good. An oil filter for that thing is about $20.00 by itself and close to $40.00 if a full flow style. I like to drain oil when the engine is warm and contaminates are agitated in the film. After the engine starts, then check your transmission(s), and rear axles for proper level. I say this order because if the engine is no good, you're not going to drive the truck home as anticipated, and not many I know are fond of throwing their money away. Once everything is verified good, then you could change to oil. Four of my trucks have literally been pulled from fields where they sat for several years. As mentioned take jumper cables, fresh batteries if possible, fresh fuel, engine oil, pre mixed anti freeze, and one thing you don't want to forget is wasp and hornet spray this time of year. When something is sittting for a long spell, those bastards really make it their home! Advice worth what you paid for it. Rob

Dragged my spare RTO-12513 out of the garage and moved trucks around so this one will have a stall. Got a nice oil slick starting just from moving the truck 10 feet....... Looks like I'll get to use my tranny jack tonight. Hope I don't need to remove a fuel tank that is about 3/4 full in the anticipation of the trip to South Bend that was canx'd. I had the top cover off this transmission and it looks nice inside. Came from a 1982 "Cruiseliner" and was behind a E6-350 which I have also. I never drove the truck but rather purchased the engine and the gent gave me the trans. It has a rebuilder's tag on the side and I have a complete top cover rebuild set including poppet balls, springs, forks etc. I will switch over the mounts, speedo drive gear, slave cylinder, and a couple of other things I know are good on the old trans. Will also replace the air line set upon the swap and need to pick up a throwout fork kit as this one is no good at all. The bushings are all but gone, but the housing seems alright. And just cause Other Dog likes to look at pictures of things, a couple of my RL797LST in the shop. Got to mow grass, then get back in the shop. Rob

I got a great idea!! "Rob" the engine out of the B model and give me the remainder; Yeah, that's the ticket!! The spare engine I know of is in western New York state if what remains of my feeble mind serves. Rob

Well Glenn; Following your advice I pulled the bottom PTO cover from the trans. What I saw immediately told me this suckers a coming out. The sliding clutches that can be seen only contain about 25% of their original wear faces. Some of the other gears are actually worn concave on the faces. None of the observed gears still contain their "hobb" marks except on the non load beariing surfaces at the edges, and I about cut my finger when I dragged it across the most forward magnet in the bottom of the case. Here are a couple of photos of some small pieces I dragged out: The entire bottom of the case is a light gray metallic color that could not be swiped with my method prior. The layer is about 1/16" thick it feels like. I rounded up my box of transmission parts and new biscuit kit and will get this one pulled either later today or tomorrow. Glad I didn't attempt to make the South Bend trip after seeing this mess!! Thanks again for the help and guidance. Rob

It can get real expensive quickly if you purchase a set of pistons and liners, machine the heads for the fire rings that never existed as the replacement overhaul kits are for "Maxidyne" conversion liners, plus weld up and machine the crank, replace and/or resize the existing rods, etc. Although not original, you would more cost effective to replace the engine complete with a known good one. Should you be interested in a known good replacement, I know of a serviceable replacement not far from you. I believe this engine to be good but is surplus to the owner's needs. Shoot me a pm if interested and I'll forward the contact information. Rob

I have seen two of those but never driven one. One was in an IH "Donald Duck", and the other in a White 4000 series. I never knew what the handle was for because I thought all "Roadrangers" were air shifted at the time. Rob

I'll get a good look at it tomorrow. The truck was a low boy tractor so I'm sure it's had some strong usage. I have a good led light, (very bright) that snakes up into cavities easily. I may stand the other "ready spare" up on it's nose tomorrow and get a look at it also to use the best one. Thanks for the insight! Rob

Install some 24/24 spring brake chambers on the existing mounts. Clearance is close but they will fit. Rob

Glenn, when starting from standing still in 1st gear, (to the left and up) I accelerate to about 1800 rpm and grab the next gear. There is a noticeable "howl" in the gearset at this point. Once again up to about 1800 and the next upshift is very quiet into third. Into fourth is also very quiet. Pulling the range selector up just prior to moving to 5th is a bit louder but not objectionable. When the splitter is moved to o/d, the whine is pronounced. The upshift and split back to direct is about as loud as the prior shift. From this point the whine and growl increases with road speed. I can feel the noise through the floor and steering column. I don't have any floor covering, or headliner in the truck and it is very loud to operate but the transmission is louder than the engine at speed. I do have a couple of isolator kits to be incorporated into the shifters but haven't done those yet. Can I get to the magnets through the PTO openings? I need to reseal the PTO on the rt. side so it needs to come off. Rob