Rob

You are probably correct. The way the truck was parked I never looked at the left side as it was against a building. Those jacks probably were independent of one another. Rob

Hi Glenn, I asked about that conversion kit about a year and a half ago. I had seen it on the roadranger site then listed. It is not offered any longer direct from Eaton. Rob

I thought that was just my eyesight. I figgered the axle in the middle was to keep it from flexing as it traveled the roads. I seen the landing gear also but never thought too much about it. Strange contraption is what I thought. Rob

I drove one of those once. Didn't like the backing speed at all; much too fast. Rob

Man I couldn't get to that section for nothin. I tried over a 1/2 hour before giving up. I've never been into a 13 speed before but it doesn't appear to be all that difficult. Think I'll go ahead and pull it out and get the rear section removed to evaluate the bearings at a minimum. Something has got to be indicative of wear to make this amount of noise. I already have two complete gasket and seal sets for this series. Thanks, Rob

Mike, this is due to either the ignition switch, or the headlamp switch. Ford paid for a lot of totals due to "burn down" a few years ago starting in 1999. Look into the recall records. That car may have been missed as through the 2005 model year Ford was replacing switches left and right for this reason. Cheap sliding contact in the switches were the culprit. Windstar vans were among the worst to have this happen. Rob

This afternoon I went to the shop and drained the trans again. I also pulled the plugs in both differentials to look at the magnetic plug in the peanut case, the reduction case, and the bowl. If I remember correctly you don't need to check the fluid level in the upper area(s), just the lower bowl(s). The innards were coated with freshly splashed oil. There was very little grit/shavings on either of the magnetic plugs of the rears, and the bowls were full of relatively clean and green gear oil. The trans oil was a light bronze color with no indication of water or contamination. I then took a clean cloth and clipped a section into a conformable wand and wiped the bottom of the gear case internally with the cloth. There really was nothing picked up that could be considered abnormal. I'm wondering if it is time to pull the rear box from the trans and ensure something has not gone south in there. I drove the truck this morning and although the trans is noisy, it was not a screamer like it was when good and warm. It also never attempts to jump out of gear and shifts very well through all ranges. I'd like to have an illustated parts breakdown to see how this animal works. The lack of metal or garbage in the drain oil or on the drain plug is strange. Rob

Hi James, I can find nothing pertaining to the older transmissions on the "Roadranger.com" site. Other than oil capacity, everything seems to relate to their newer stuff. Rob

It was at the South Bend show. It is almost 50 feet in length with an air ride and lift axle in the middle. I don't see the practicality. Rob

Most RL 700 series trucks I've seen have spokes on the drives and Budd style on the steer. I have one of each. Both of my trucks were built in Hayward, CA, not San Jose. Rob

How much of a difference is there in an RTO-14609, and a RTO-14610? Given my limited apptitude in such things I do know one has another gear......... Really thinking about doing away with the RTO-12513 and the noise. I've looked for a decent priced RTO-14613, but I'm looking for cheap and haven't had much success. Thanks, Rob

I actually do with a sub micron guage for six hours minimum. This boils any moisture from the system. I then charge to 50 psi with nitrogen and let dwell overnight. Then pull the system into a vacume of 29.75" to purge the nitrogen charge. Typically another operation is performed while this is going on so the actual clock time is not billed to the customer. 1.4 manhours is what book time calls for evac and recharge on automotive applications. This is fairly accurate if there are no problems present. It costs a bit more for the precautionary measures taken, but comebacks are extremely seldom and I've really never had problems getting compensated properly as my proceedures are well known around here. Typically I'm billing 2.5 hours with a $35.00 upcharge for the extra nitrogen charge. Prolly couldn't do that without a good repore with insurance adjusters. Rob

Gotta say I like that sound too. I don't have any four valve motors but the two valves through 5" straights sound good also. Rob

You have a very valid point in longevity as installed OEM. However, if a three micron filter is incorporated into compressor discharge line when built, the compressor has the very real possibility of lasting as long as the vehicle provided no corrosion or impact disturbs the integrity of the system. If all the joint were silver soldered, there would be no rubber sealing rings to leak. As compressors run they minutely wear and put abrasive particulates into the components of the system. These can eventually plug or restrict both liquid refrigerant and oil mixture compounding the problem of wear. With the added restriction(s), head pressure builds higher than normal and even more wear ensues. Viscious cycle is what this is. With a large capacity filter installed from the start, these particulates are captured and not allowed to pass this point. The balance of the system remains clean and runs a long time before failure. This is why a compressor in a home system last so many years in comparison to automotive usage. Rob

They were great compressors till the piston rings and seals started to leaking from age. This caused the crankcase to pressurize and blow the double lip carbon packing seal on the crankshaft. When they were in good shape, you could check the crankcase oil without dumping the charge. If you removed the side plug and pressure blew it out of your fingers, it was time for rebuild. The valve plates were the most problematic of the system. In cars, the mechanical POA valves of the late 60's to mid 70's were always freezing from being stationary during the cold months and head pressure would rise uncontroled until either the high pressure cutout disabled the current to the compressor clutch, or the valve plate in the head distorted dissallowing pressure buildup. Either way, it was time for rebuild. They made great mobile air compressors too. Rob

Why of course. Come right on in. Been waiting a long time anticipating your return. Certainly missed you. Be certain to tell "Momma" how Randy P treated you. She has been looking forward to his visit. She mentioned something about "arm wrestling". You heard anything bear? Rob

Hi James, when the York style, (Borg-Warner) compressor was very common in the marketplace, it was the best and most durable out there. Also really easy to rebuild. When Diesel-Kiki bought the design rights, the quality went to shit on short order. Nowadays the Sanden, (american made, not chinese variant) is by far just as durable and much more efficient. One does not however just want to go out and purchase a compressor that fits a certain set of mounts to a certain engine etc. There is much more criteria to be solved for prior to the purchase. One needs to know the evaporator capacity in tons of refrigeration capacity per hour, followed the condensor heat rejection characteristics, followed by a proper expansion device to allow adequate "flash" of the liquid refrigerant from a liquid to a gas, and near lastly, proper hose sizes to connect it all together. Mismatch any part and less than adequate cooling is the result. I've seen many glider kits assembled utilizing a known good compressor already mounted to an engine and the package not come together properly. If Lazr is simply replacing a known good working unit that leaks and can obtain a like compressor there will be no problems. However without a factory tag affixed to the body, and unless able to trace the numbers for a like kind unit, trouble could be on the horizon. Rob

"Lester" is a rebuilder and not a manufacturer. Don't know if they are still around. Replace with either a York, or Sanden depending if the existing is a reciprocating or swash plate or axial design. Rob

I've fixed them all over the years and anything produced in Canada is just as good as produced in the USA. Rob

Yeah, nobody seen that coming. For the most part only people that cannot afford new vehicles were able to purchase them only to lose in a period of months when forced back into reality. Rob

I'd be really careful hedging bets on "Momma". I bet she wouldn't cut my nuts out if I bought another Mack truck........... Rob

I've seen several glider trucks in years past set on dealer's lots in excess of two years and yet be titled as a current model year truck when assembled. This is possibly the story with yours. Nice truck no matter the story. Kinda like the round light look myself but not that steering gear setup. Rob

Here ya go: http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/cto/2428115454.html Rob

If you take the average size cat and hold both front feet together with your left hand, them firmly, but slowly apply a steadily increasing pull or force to the tail, you can feel each and every bone, cartilage, and ligament part within the cat's body. They are quite limber after the treatment. Rob

I think the stimulus should have never happened. We didn't have the funds for it. We borrowed the funding and it did us no good except incur more debt we cannot repay. Rob