Rob

Neglection of needs of long term. They are going for the instant satisfaction of the quick sale with complete disregard as to long term goals, yet only looking after the short term ones. This is the basic problem with our youth in the current generation started by the "yuppie" generation. Too much credit, too easy to obtain, till it all comes unglued and financial collapse is inevitable. Rob

Lot of merit in that statement right there. Rob

They did that to give about 1/2 second warning before impaling the driver's chest. In reality, this is the reason for the collapsable steering column. In cars, the steering column has to collapse 3" before moving the entire column by federal mandate. Mounting the steering gear in that fashion was a bad design in my opinion. Rob

This is a bit of a different animal however. When the steering gear is mounted to the steer axle the splines work much the same as a driveshaft with the slip, and spline moving with the axle. This induces a lot of wear into the shaft splines. Much like a driveshaft the shaft has to endure the torque of twisting also. These needed greased often but a lot were neglected. A steering gear that is frame mounted does not have the same rigors on the input shaft this setup does. Rob

You are very correct. I neglected to mention the liability exposure to someone making this part. Rob

The "+" section is for the telescopic feature of the column. If you don't use this feature it is not needed. The second thing this does is allow steering column collapse in the event of a front end collision. This was mandated for the 1968 model year in USA for light trucks and automobiles. You could get any splined shaft and socket, then "time" the universals in sync with each other. As David said you could also lengthen an R600 shaft easily also. Ensure you keep the timing of the universals correct meaning either in the same angle plane, or 90 degrees from each other, otherwise the shaft will bind against itself when turning. As mentioned, a driveline shop can set you right up. Rob

Silicone lubricant wiped down so it is dry looks good too. Rob

What ten speed o/d trans would be a slip fit using the 12513 bell? Rob

I looked at the mounts closely and they are in good shape. Still have good compression on top and bottom with no play. I was going to break the driveline but didn't as I got lazy. None of the joints are loose or dry and the output yoke does not deflect with a jack pushing up lightly. I'm working the midnight shift due to cutover of electrical switchgear tonight. Don't know if I'll get to work on the truck tomorrow as I expect I'll be tired. Come Monday, or Tuesday, I'll get onto it hard. Need to get a hitch on my Jeep this week also. Rob

I have not pulled the covers but plan to as I want to have a look see when I change the fluids. I was wondering about one of the rears due to the lack of shavings on the magnetic plugs. There was no more metal than normal wear. Rob

This one definately changes pitch or sound when you split the gears. It doesn't matter the speed traveled. Rob

Thanks Bob. This is a Fuller transmission. Just don't know if it's worth working with. Rob

The strap irritates and chaffs my second, or middle chin. Rob

Little further west. Rob

Yup. Chuck Norris is so bad even his shadow is scared of getting his ass kicked. Rob

That sounds like a plan but the grinding one can feel in the floor and through the steering column concerns me. Although perfectly normal in something with a Red Oval on the hood, it is found to be unacceptable when a bulldog resides up front, and his asshole in the driver's seat. This thing sure does run fine with fresh fuel replacing the 10+ year old diesel that was in the tanks! Rob

I do that with bashing my skull. Rob

Looks like you got the hot exhaust manifold with the index finger. When I cut myself, I usually see bone. Rob

Today I took the winch truck out to warm the driveline prior to draining the trans oil. To my surprise, when I opened the drains, there really wasn't a lot of grit on the magnetic drain plugs. I was expecting literally "piles" stuck to them given the noise this trans makes. I'm now wondering if I should pull it apart to see what is wrong. I know these transmissions, (RTO-12513) are noisy in the overdrive portion, but this one "howls" in the direct range also. Never have had one this loud. I have a couple more with Mack bells in the shop, but this one has me puzzled. I've never pulled the rear off of one of these but assume it's not too difficult. Anybody know the clearance between the gear teeth in the back end? Thanks, Rob

looks vaguely familiar......... Rob

I figgered you'd be taking the car. I need to call you later tonight about another subject. I'm not certain how long I'll be at the show. Depends on who is there, and if I can get some parts brought to the show. I have both the week prior, and after off from work so no real hurry as far as I know, (at this point). Rob

All I need to know I learned in kindergarden; (Dr. Robert Fulghum). Rob

You could ride with me in the Jeep. I'll be toting a car hauler with some wheels, tires, and engine parts for David. Might be a couple hundred extra miles to go as I need to pick up some more parts on the way back. Sleeping quarters or personal hygiene aren't the best as I usually stay in the Jeep till I can no longer stand the smell of my feet, I then either get a motel for a shower, or find a flush toilet and bar of soap for them. We could meet up at Crawfordsville, IN and come right back to your place on the way back. Oh yeah, I no longer "share the bear". Randy had her much too long and it was getting lonely around here. Rob

Sorry to hear of your loss. Rob

Always a good show when Peterbilt trucks participate. By the time the wreckers haul them in, and the accompanying support vehicles arrive, it''s quite a turnout. Rob