Rob

Hi Paul, yes I'll buy but what I've got scheduled on the menu will be a new experience for you I'm sure. On your way, please stop by the Rochester Diaper Manufacturing plant and pick up some of what we refer to as "secondary confinement" items. We're gonna need um. Rob

Mike is a pilot an he will be interested. I work on the shit that gets airplanes in the air, to their destination, then back on the ground safely. Rob

That is exactly why we kept it quiet, and discreet; you know, kinda like a gentlemans agreement. Rob

I need to pull the PTO from my RTO-12513 trans and reseal due to leakage. What is the drivegear backlash supposed to be for a used unit? It is a 442 series Chelsea, mechanical reversing, and does run though a spacer plate. It is mounted on the rt. side of the trans if anybody has a book for reference. Thanks, Rob

Me too. That's why I have three. Rob

I read someplace the split manifold came out in the 1962 model year. Rob

There is NO excuse for adultery no matter who the fuck you are. Rob

I like the 50's, 60's and the 70's so I have a bit of each. The 51 A40 is my favorite truck, the B models are just classy in the true sense of the word, and the R models just drive well with excellent visibility. I like the looks of the long hood R700 series. The Peterbilt, well, I don't own one of those things cause walking home after the journey makes my ankles swell. Rob

http://www.ibtimes.com/articles/146621/20110516/biofuels-may-pollute-heavily-if-made-the-wrong-way.htm Rob

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/2384953329.html Just remember when looking at the truck; if you drop your wallet, be sure to kick it all the way across the bridge to Oakland before you bend over to pick it up. Rob

Prolly not. Coulda been at a "gang bang" where I was screaming "Me Last, Me Last". Rob

Well of course. Thanks, Rob

I've seen the viking characters in places but can't remember where. Rob

I have seen as you mentioned used but mine looks like a hand impact driver you would place a phillips bit in the end of to loosen frozen fasteners. You unscrew the cap, fill the chamber with grease, replace the cap, place the grease fitting that is on the end over the zerk, and smack it. Instant pressure exceeding 10,000 psi is applied to the zerk. Usually the old and hardended grease is punched through and the joint will now take grease easily. If you put chassis grease inside the porto power pump barrel it will probably not work again until completely cleaned out. They don't have a preload spring against a piston as a hand grease gun does. Also most porto power assembly are pressure regulated at 10,000 psi maximum to be able to sell them in this country. Rob

Yeah, it shears them right off!! Learned that the somewhat hard way on a leaf sping zerk that was 90 degrees. Kinda hard to drill them out when you can't get to them without removing fuel tanks, or battery boxes for clearance. Rob

I got is figgered out today. The spring eye bushings and shackles bushings both need replaced at a minimum. I jacked the truck up till just having the tires clear the floor, and placed a porta power on the floor pushing against the front, and rear spring eyes. They moved about 1/4" each taking up play. I'll pull the springs after the South Bend trip and haul them to St. Louis for work. They can hot rearch and rebush them to OEM spec. I'll have new ones made if they are defective. Really like the truck and it runs/drives great but I don't like the "lean" at all. I have an "Alemite" grease gun you smack with a hammer to make frozen zerks take grease. You pack this thing full of grease, attach it to the frozen zerk, smack it with a two pound hammer and about 12,000psi of grease pressure usually breaks something loose. I've not seen one like it in several years but I'll loan it to you. Rob

"Momma" reserved me a hotel room in South Bend last evening. Says I can't sleep on the ground and need a shower. She also says it's time for her to have some time alone and this is a good way to be rid of me for a few days, (aw shucks I say). I was talking to Morgan last evening, (B61 Fred) and I'm going to try to bring my R model to stretch the legs a bit but remain somewhat local. The truck seems reliable but I've not had it further than about eight miles from home, and it hasn't seen road miles since 2004. Still have a few things to get repaired/patched up before the journey, but it seems like it's a "go" at this point. Rob

I think that is what they term an "oxymoron". Was a nice looking truck. I don't like all the added on garbage that is so popular these days. We have a few of those fiberglass statues around the midwest. They were all made by the same company in the late 1950's and 60's. I read an article on them years ago. Rob

I'm certain it would lift the weight as it's rated at 3 ton. I don't have tow hook sockets on this truck so no real place to get hold of it. After speaking with another member I think I can lift by the xmember mentioned and support the truck under the same member on stands. Gotta clean out a stall to park in to do the work next as I'm still debating on driving this one to South Bend. Rob

I don't know anybody that would rebuild components on a "casual" basis unless worn/defective but if you did all the work yourself I think $15,000 would cover the expenses. Of course your labor is worth something so that would be subjective. Rob

I'm wanting to lift the front end of an R model, and remove the front springs for either rebush, or replacement. Is the front weldment that supports the engine mount strong enough to bear the weight? The engine is a 300+. I'm not certain I can remove the springs with jack stands under the front mount spring sockets/pockets and I certainly can't support the truck by the axle with no springs. My winch truck has a noticeable "lean" to the right side and suspension measurements verify either the spring is weak, or the bushings are beat out. Either way, I want it right. Thanks, Rob

While probably true, it would in fact make it over the top. Rob

Hi there, yes we have seen that posted here before but it was a "grab" from your prior post on LargeCar. Welcome here too but be aware there are some not to friendly to Peterbilt around here; (all in good fun ya know). Nicely done whoever owned it. Rob

I've wondered if any of the owner/operators purchasing the "high end" type of trucks would be willing to pay the upcharge for an engine that did not meet current tier level emmisions? This could be a $5000.00 premium but if it kept the truck on the road without all the problems, would be worth the expense. Rob