Rob

It has been quite some time ago but I rebuilt my 676 engine with a PAI out of frame kit. I was thoroughly impressed with the quality of the parts and had zero problems. My vendor did have to get me a set of oversize liners as I had the bores honed but didn't have the engine apart when parts were ordered. These were exchanged one for one with no additional charge. I think the bearings were "Clevite" and the kit was very complete. I understand the pistons in the kits are now made in India and are of a differing quality that my kit contained. I've not rebuilt another engine since, so cannot attest to current offerings. Rob

I have no experience with this engine but sounds like an oil bleed problem to me. Where is the oil bleed port when the solenoid is released? Is it possibly through the rocker shaft if there is one? How about galling of the pivot point(s) of the rocker arms? I can't remember which engine it was but the rocker shafts if installed incorrectly would not oil themselves and were short lived. Are the intake, and exhaust lifters the same? Any chance the lifter bores were honed oversize and a larger diameter lifter installed that is too large for the bore? I don't want to sound like an idiot although I fit the profile but with the problem remaining in the head, one needs to "drill down" to how the system operates to facilitate a repair. Rob

Glad to be of help. Good maintenenace can and usually expands the mean time between failure. Now if I could just figger out how to tie my shoes. Rob

http://nashville.craigslist.org/grd/2292075974.html Rob

Why the negative reputation? The gent is young, up front with knowing little, and seeking help with a truck. I've always thought part of the "beauty" of this site was many are willing to share their experience(s) to help. There is a lot of talent that are routine posters here and as far as I know not a single unit of currency has exchanged hands for it. It really don't get much better than that. Rob

Have you plumbed a shop air supply fitting into the primary air system of the truck? Do this first, charge the air system to 120 psi, and with truck not running, listen and look for leaks using a spray soap. Dish washing liquid works well for this. Spray everything but be certain to listen for air leakage around the transmission and shift pistons. These may, or may not leak internally. With the engine shut off, place the transmission is low range, high range, and overdrive split if you have it listening for leakage. Take off the intake tube for the compressor and listen for air escaping there also. If the air is leaking back through the compressor head, you main check valve in the wet tank is not sealing. If it is making air but losing it quickly there is a problem. Your low air buzzer ceasing at 70-75 psi is not a problem and normal. Don't forget to check under the dash for leaks also. "O" rings in the brake and trailer valves start to leak as they age. Rob

I can't say and I'd really like to. NC is a real contender as is WI. Rob

Most people call em a "G" string with a pouch. I just call em "skimpys" cause they don't cover much but coverage ain't important no more after "Momma" finished with me. Rob

Don't run the engine with a bent harmonic balancer! You will destroy the block, and crankshaft if not done already!! Pull the bent balancer from the crankshaft, set a dial indicator up on the front of the engine and check for bending of the snout through 360 degrees of engine rotation by hand. Hardly any deflection of the needle on the indicator denotes a scrap crankshaft. Rob

To bed late and up early eh? I'm unfamiliar with the trailer mentioned but it won't go through that space rolling. I'd measure to be certain as your truck could be different than my B models. Rob

It seems the 200 series could be ordered with the air over hydraulic brakes. You will not get 20mpg with the truck empty or loaded. Best I ever did was about 11.5 empty and the net weight was right at 20,000# empty. You won't make a lot of money selling the truck in my opinion although it is very worth what you paid for it if you can use it. They have earned a reputation and many are scared of them although they can be a very good truck. Rob

The dual 4" stacks lead me to believe it is Detroit powered. Most others I've seen with anything else used 5" exhaust. Very nice layout to the paint scheme. Rob

Flex causing the windshields to break. Boy does that bring up memories. The 73-76 Ford Thunderbirds, LTD's, and Galaxie's, along with the Mercury Cougers, Gran Marquis, and other large cars of the timeframe used to do that a lot due to frame flex. The metal clips that retained the aluminum mouldings would get into the glass and crack it. Haven't heard of this happening with another vehicle since. Rob

Certainly, but there is no way you can haul one of these on a trailer that the deck is lower than the tires without drive over fenders. Rob

There is no way to answer this question as there are too many variables. You measure wheelbase from the center of the front axle with the wheels straight ahead, to the center of the rear drive axle. There is frame protrusion past the rear also to contend with. All of these are variables setup by the truck owner/operator. Post a photo and you will get some close guesses, but that is about all that can be had with the information. Without the rear outer tires installed, an eight foot wide deckover trailer will haul it without hanging over. With the mirrors installed the overall width is near 8.5 feet. Rob

Clean shorts??? What a great idea!!! Think I'll go peel these babies off!! Rob

Hey AJ, after opening the site, go to the "Forums" tab, and then save this as your new favorite. It will prolly ask you to overwrite the existing and answer yes. The problem will be solved. Same thing happened to me with last site upgrade. Rob

Hi Roddy and welcome to the club. Is this truck an MS200, or MS250? From your explanation of the brakes it leads me to believe you have air over hydraulic brakes which is indicative of a 250 series. The brakes by all accounts are expensive to work on and maintain. It is not a bad system but it is in a guys best interest to use silicone brake fluid and change it every couple of years. I had a CS-250 series and replaced the truck due to downtime on the damned brakes. I replaced it with a CS-300 with full air brakes which were absolutely trouble free. By all accounts this will be an expensive truck to run and maintain. The main support base was through Mack dealers and little involving the aftermarket. Unfortunately, these are getting some age on them now. I don't know about parts support any longer as I exited the market where I needed the trucks at the end of 2005. Most of the engines in that series were rated about 190hp and will give good service with proper maintenance. If you go to turning the pump up much the engine life will suffer quickly and parts for those are not inexpensive. I'll bet you would spend over $6000 getting an engine rebuilt. My advice would be to run the truck for what it is and take care of it. I'm certain you will be happy as I thought they were the best driving and definately the most quiet truck to operate at the time. I ran two of my Mid-Liners over a million miles with no major mechanical work. Never had a truck needed towed back to the shop as they did not break down on the highway(s). I hit three deer myself, and two of my drivers had hit two each in the trucks during the nightly runs. Other than rust which is common around here, I was very pleased with them. Rob

I think he was deliriously thinking of a Cummins powered Peterbilt with that question. Rob

I awoke this morning with no "Momma" beside me in bed, and church sermons emminating from the radio on the nightstand. Rob

There is a company in Chicago that can rebuild the torque link but it's not inexpensive. I don't know how difficult it would be to acquire an integral gear that is rt. hand drive but if possible would be the way to go. Rob

Hi Joe, someplace within the last month on this site there was a thread going about a gent that had stuck injectors in his DM series truck. There are special tools out there available to force them out but I would soak the injector hole cavity with a penetrant oil for a couple of days to possibly loosen them. When reinstalling injectors be certain to coat the outer body with an anti seize paste prior to installation so they don't do it again possibly. Here's a quick link to get you started. There are about three threads pertaining to this gents problem, and solution. http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=17304&st=0&p=70649&fromsearch=1entry70649 Rob

As I understand the system. No. The systems are separated by a check valve that precludes bleedback from secondary to primary. If you place your shop air charge valve into the primary supply system tank both systems will charge but not vice versa. Rob

Nothing surprises me. I've seen guys try to use a tire patch on a blown air bag. Fix a flat will plug the release valves used when you dump the air in the suspension. Rob

Your injectors are suspect. I'd pull them and send into the fuel shop for calibration/rebuild. Rob