Rob

Inner tube sections with an interference fit to tubing, rods, and linkage sandwiched between the floorpan, or firewall and a piece of plastic makes for a good weather seal in penetrations too.

What is this? A crack in your cowl or pillar:

The "900" series was a very common turn signal switch through the years. Some like the later variant with the headlamp dimmer incorporated into the switch and some still prefer the button on the floor. Personal preference there but if you already had the "newer" style, it's quite simple to string new and additional wiring in the truck.

Thanks and I believe that is NOT the first misprint I've seen in the manuals over the years..... There is no filter cap I'm aware of and have three trucks with the V8 engines plus a fourth for parts.

Are you sure that doesn't read "filler" cap? After the engine is cool, and when you loosen the filter from it's mount there will be some coolant wanting to escape. Removing the radiator cap disallows any pressure in the system other than static. Either drain the radiator down by about a gallon into a bucket, or place a bucket under the filter mount to capture this spillage as you remove the filter. Lubricate your seal on the new filter with coolant and reattach to your mount. Start the engine and top the cooling system back off.

It is called the "Mast Jacket Collar". It houses the upper column rotary bearing supporting the steering shaft the wheel mounts to, the spring button the electric horn current runs through, and of course the automatic canceling turn signal switch assembly. It is a die cast unit. You can remove it and fashion a support for a roller bearing as the steering shaft needs supported on this end and use a stainless "wrap" originating from a polished "Torq-Tite" exhaust clamp for a decorative look. Citing the column is originally from a truck without a column mounted shift handle there is no shifter handle originally incorporated and it should be devoid of any holes on the rt. side. The left side hole can be "filled" with something decorative to your liking but if me, I would look to retain the automatic canceling turn signals the column was built for but that is personal preference.

Yes it is.

No worries. I have to go in there on Monday to pay a bill so will ask then. It certainly is easier to find things with a paper catalog over an internet screen for me too.

I think I can get you a new PAI catalog if it would help you out too. I'll ask next time I'm into the truck parts place I use. If so I'll need your mailing address as I've not shipped anything to your country in the past; Netherlands, Chech Republic, and Poland but never Russia.

I have older and newer PAI catalogs and if you need something researched just yell at me as I don't mind looking for you. I've never had a problem with their parts a single time myself and have used them as a vendor well over 20 years. Since closing my shop I'm no longer a distributor for them but I had a hard time meeting minimums even then. We unfortunately do not have the Mack traffic in my area as once did. PAI has expanded greatly since the beginnings and are still a great resource for our older needs, but even their suppliers are dwindling down. Some of their quality, as well as OEM has suffered as a result.

Me neither but Seyser's truck appears to have the heater "socket" bolted through the panel rather than the panel be cut out for the socket as in my 80 R612:

Western style: 9-15/16" tall. Can't remember the length but shorter than the Eastern variants.

She is still wearing in but numbers look pretty good. I would like to see less iron content which is ring and liner wear but zinc, phosphorus, and calcium are up from the type oil selected I believe. I like Delvac 15W-40 in diesels myself which tends to yield a bit better numbers in my Mack engines.

Years ago I worked in an elevator manufacturing plant. They had trim and moulding panels anodized, and then would sand the tops with a large horizontal belt sander. Made the annunciator panels and push button escutcheon plates stand out.

Forgot to update this posting but I did find one but haven't got it home yet. Actually he needed a front rear for a truck, and had an extra rear rear so a trade deal but I'll need to drill and stud the casting as it's from Camelback suspension.

Your efforts certainly stand out to folks whom know what they are looking at. I did notice your injector lines layout but thought they were a running I'd not seen in the past. Mine are all stacked as you mention and original routings. I actually had a couple twist off from rust on the 74 truck, but have another set from a donor engine to replace them. Given they are krusty, I may make up new ones if I can find a shop with the correct ends. The canvas and tar sleeving is on all wiring and air lines in the 74 truck and just falling apart. It was used where split loom plastic is these days. The product is still available but getting up there and I will most likely replace it also. Only have to do it once so not the cost issue with me as I want it to look nice and retain a pretty close to original look. I don't remember any plastic lines under that hood or engine and do think the original copper is still in place. I'll probably reuse it if I can, but the truck won't be worked. The 74 truck never had power steering and at some point had "Air-O-Matic" installed which was worn out when I purchased it. I purchased, (via Trent) a power steering gear and pitman arm along with a drag link, then a VTM42 series hydraulic pump and reservoir from another party to install hydraulic power steering, but haven't got that far yet. I have purchased the R5 hydraulic hose and have hose ends for the steering also. After welding up a stand for the engine, it sets in the back of the shop with others awaiting further work. Going to change the cab in the spring and started cleaning up the chassis last fall after pulling the engine in 2018: To my surprise a lot of the aluminum parts on the water truck were originally chromed. The "X" bracing running from the cowl to the radiator was chrome as were a couple of brackets and the turbocharger pipe was polished. Not in the best condition now, but it probably showed well in it's day. I'll probably follow suit when I get to it but that truck runs and is occasionally used so being kept back and not messed with, (yet). I've actually got to drag that one into the shop as one of the oil cooler sealing rings to the block let go and it's spraying engine oil which is a new problem. No gaskets in there but just a silicone ring. Never a dull moment around here it seems. Just wish working on my own stuff would pay for itself somehow.....

There is a lot more room in there than the B615 I'd seen. Looks like it belongs there. I've not pulled a load with any of my V8 trucks except the water wagon and it's been local short distance. Other's have only ran empty and the "slobber" is most likely from not getting them hot in the exhaust in years. Lot's of idling around my place and the stack on the water wagon is just streaked from the slobber running down. If I rev the engine, it paints the roof and hood too so needs gotten out and run good. Getting far too difficult to source parts so not going to do any modification to the engines. I have two complete upper and lower gasket sets and those had to come from Mack as obsolete everywhere else. I'm going to send in two 8VBB pumps to a shop in Ft. Smith as per Glenn's suggestion but haven't done it yet. No fuel shops in this area have the adapters to spin these any longer. You have your parts polished or "Jet Hot" coated? They certainly look good. My 74 866B is gold, (although not a Maxidyne engine) and rust along with some corrosion...... the 73 866B, (water wagon) and 77, (Project R-12) are both gray. The 77 is an 865B series but rebuilt. It has the short nosed later 8VBB pump and sure runs like a scalded dog. I like your foldover aluminum tag stock for the hose gathers rather than the customary plastic "zip ties" seen everywhere these days. I also see you stayed with the SAE 100R5 style hoses for the fuel and coolant lines which are the braided ones. Lots of attention to detail is evident in that build. Mine are all original from the 1970's and falling apart although not leaking, (yet). Wire sleeving just crumbles when you touch it. I'm so cheap however I'll probably retain the copper air compressor discharge piping to the wet tank rather than go the teflon and stainless as your build did.

Hope you had a good one. I ceased having them damned things long ago.

Nice clean dash. Don't get to see that too often any longer once a truck goes into service. Same switch used for a lot of years. My R612 looks just like it with the legend plate still intact.

I've seen that type plenty, but the one I have in the bin is more solid in the risers with the breast plate the same. The risers on mine are angle steel and drilled for mounting through the bumper mounting bolts.

Yes Vlad, they are the ones I've been using when called for. The marker and tail lamp interruption is a way of "thanking" another trucker whom has signaled you it's "OK" to cut back in front of them as you've completed you pass around them. Mack doesn't deliver to my place and FleetPride/PAI does, so I reference them first. If my local Mack dealer yielded the service my other vendor's do, they'd get the business without question on my Mack purchases.

Many differences. Post a photo I'll be able to tell.

Most pumps installed onto dump trucks are only pressure one way as in extending a cylinder and gravity down. You can make a dump pump work as long as the flow isn't far too much for the application, you know how to plumb a flow divider, priority valve, and/or spool valves for your application. I wouldn't plan to run 50gpm through an application that requires 5gpm as example as the byproduct is heat and possibly destroyed parts. You would be far better off replacing parts to go with the requirement.

Get me some good detailed photos of what you have. My truck is also Hayward built and 1978. I can compare your's to mine and quite possibly make you a set or dimensioned drawings to fabricate them yourself if the same as mine. I have a broken plastic on on the right side; left is fine.

Yup. For local work it's the cat's meow. No additional weight for oil and use of a fuel tank not needed for fuel.