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Rob

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Rob

  1. Yup, epoxy undercoats and 2K topcoats are your friends if a drawn out project is attempted. I'd rather prep, prime or paint and scuff later for finish work rather than clean up rust/corrosion a second time to move forward again.
  2. You see them both ways around here; on the trailer, or the tractor. Usually trailer mounted kits are driven by a driveline from the tractor via simple driveshaft. This is usual when the tractor does more than one purpose such as dump trailer, sludge pumping, or in many cases, anhydrous work.
  3. Yup. Seen and replaced for the same reason in the past.
  4. I have one broken on my 78 RL. Do you have a right one I could make a mould from? My left side is good as are my brackets. This setup started with the 1975 year model.
  5. Vlad; I wasn't referencing the main headlamp switch but rather the toggle switch on the upper left dash by the windshield pillar. This switch will turn off the outer cab clearance lamps on the roof along with the tail lamps when pushed forward, and flash the bright headlamp setting when the toggle is pulled rearward. Both positions are momentary and spring return to center which is normal position. The toggle handle is much longer in length than the standard headlamp main switch also.
  6. Did you relocate the turbocharger from the back? I have that double over triplex in my B-61 on tall rubber w/3.70 gears. Haven't driven it yet but thinking it will scoot. Love the sound of them V8's. Both my 866's and 865 have their own distinct sound, but like to slobber if not run.
  7. PAI still looks to have them Trent. Part number for the screw on spade connectors is: MSW-4395. Part number for the push on spade connectors is: MSW-4378.
  8. PAI still has them available in the original style, but they are easily rebuildable for less than $20.00. EKT-2221 is a PAI number for a rebuild kit.
  9. Many times you can pull the rubber seal away from the handle with a toothpick and get the cleaner into the switch. Not all were sealed so may not need to do the toothpick treatment. I know I have a complete dash in a cab out back but don't remember if I've robbed the switch or not. Will attempt to look tomorrow. Does your's have the long handle?
  10. I sectioned a hood on a 71 R685 years ago and the new fender I installed was different than the original hood. Seems like there were four fasteners in one side and six in the other, but owner didn't care as it was a dump truck and needed to work.
  11. Don't forget the tax generation potential for cleaning up the pungent atmosphere and associated legal costs to implement the legislation.
  12. They are probably obsolete. Last I checked it was getting hard to get anything two stick except some quadraplex parts. PAI shows nothing for a triplex any longer.
  13. Almost all sensors, or sending units are a varistor by composition. If you have problems obtaining the correct one you can send the gauge to me and I'll use a little test jig I built for the purpose and can get you the values that will make your gauge read within about 2% as the instruments built for the automotive world are not very precise in nature.
  14. I've never seen a B-755 but I'll bet it is snug in there. I've seen a B-615 and it certainly was.
  15. Though I've not worked with 16ga aluminum treadplate I remember, I've not seen any that is smooth on the back side either thicker, or thinner. All have had roll marks/depressions from the forming with the rolling mill dies. I was going to offer to weld up the holes if wanting to stay with the original look.
  16. I've not forgotten about it but haven't been out to the crib to look yet.
  17. I think they all do that eventually. Replaced a lot of them when they were working regularly. I'll look and see if I still have one on the shelf but no promises. Cole-Hersee was the vendor to Mack as was White-Rogers, (IIRC). Try liberally spraying electrical contact cleaner into the switch around the toggle handle and work it around good. It is usually corrosive oxidation to the contacts that cause this.
  18. Thanks for the update Tom. I did find that parts engine if you guys run into needing something else. It's a 1970 model so had the Luberfiner on it.
  19. I resize all of mine to 640X480 and don't have any problems.
  20. If I've ever had a set all come out, I certainly don't remember it. I've not seen those screw on variants in a lot of years so had my original "Oil Filter" caps on FA-505 axles chromed. I only have four NOS Mack hubcaps from Doug Maney many years ago, and a couple of near perfect originals being saved for a driver on spokes.
  21. Thanks for the update. Does the shifter handle readily move through the neutral gate to where you would pull it back to slide into gear? Does the shifter handle attempt to move into the low gear position? There is a gate apparatus on the top of the transmission that can be rusted precluding it's operation and they also can get packed with mud dependent upon the truck's usage. This gate apparatus is designed to be greased but much of the time neglected for years. Remove your floor pan and it will be readily visible having the two rods which should slide easily for shifting the compound.
  22. Couldn't agree more. The 12 speed as I remember had to be in low gear to go into low range due to the interlock. However the old triplex reference kinda got me out of kilter.
  23. I agree. Did the term "triplex" carry over? I've never heard any later triple countershaft trans referenced as such.
  24. Not really a lot of information in the original post? Mechanically will not slip into the Low position, or does the shifter handle move but a fork or gear selection doesn't? Never have seen an interlocked triplex myself so I could still be wet between the ears too.
  25. I'd be interested in some of the decals myself. Probably one, or two for the air cleaner housing but I don't know about the dash decals as of yet. Some were long gone prior to my acquisition(s). I looked all over my shop spares for the decal you asked about earlier, but had nothing available.
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