Rob

It's all good. Rob

Usually the "O" rings in the engine oil cooler are leaking internally. Easy to repair in an afternoon. Rob

I have an "extra" 25si Delco with unknown condition, and an L-N on a spare engine. I know nothing about this one either but it is on a very good running E6-350 I bought out of a wrecked Western Cruiseliner truck. This engine also has a L-N starter. Either one would go through rebuild before use and the shop I use does not use the offshore stuff in their rebuilds. They really don't want to see the unit again. A little more expensive but I've never had problems. Thanks, Rob

My 1980 R model has a L-N alternator and most of the othe trucks use a Delco 25si series. Nothing wrong with the Delco units other than the pull in rpm is very high before they start to charge. The L-N starts to charge as soon as the engine is turning. What I mean is if you don't rev the engine to about 800-1250 rpm, the Delco units do not start charging, where the L-N does not even require a foot to be applied to the accelerator to start charging. This must be normal for the Delco units as all four of them do this although the rpm's to start charging vary. My 74 RL has an external regulator type L-N and it performs like the Delco units, but does work well. I'm wanting to replace the external voltage regulator type on the 74 RL with an internal regulator type alternator. From the field I'm asking which is a better unit? I've really had no experience with either on the road. Rob

He has a lot of antique trucks both for sale, and collectors. Really nice guy to speak and deal with, (and honest too). I should have that trailer home within the next couple of weeks no matter how it's shipped/retrieved. I'm prolly out of the "addition" phase for now unless something like this truck comes along reasonable. Kinda bites to need to "borrow" something to haul your own equipment. Although it's never been a problem, I really needed to own something. My building is full and I mean the need to move two trucks to access the paint booth from the body work stalls is rediculous. Gonna work on that in the spring with my building addition. Rob

Really hard to tell from any photo. If you follow the copper line from the discharge port of the compressor, (usually 3/4" copper) to the first tank it comes to, that will be your wet tank. Rob

I'm not familiar with that brand of material. Is it a knock off of some other major producer of automotive refinish product? Or is it like "Transtar" products? Rob

I've never had a Cummins engine. Only ones I've worked on have been the 5.9 in the pickups and those really are few. Rob

Tried to purchase that truck several times. The guy wouldn't budge off of 11,000.00 firm!! Nice truck but too much for me at once. Thanks, Rob

Musta been on autopilot to not have a driver and reading that kind of roadspeed!! Rob

That is what I've always done too. Never have removed the frame brackets and with the brackets removed from the trans case, it clears easily for removal. Rob

Since we are talking wreckers in this post my daughter and I found a mid 70's Autocar wrecker with an 850 Holmes I used to work part time when it was pretty new. I had her take a bunch of photos with her cell phone but they've not been forwarded to me yet. I'll get them posted up soon. Was really surprised to see the old girl again, although she is quite rough, but original now. Rob

Seen this on Craigslist. Hope it's priced right and someone here can use it. Rob http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/2149378446.html

Wish they put a move on with the coal. It's cold and I'd like to turn heat up but can't afford it. Rob

I don't know who names some of their parts. Tie rod ends are called sockets also. Even an inexperienced parts man knows what you want when you ask for it and is often surprised what the part is actually called. Rob

I think I'm onto this thing now. I removed the air lines to the pistons and squirted some "Marvel" mystery oil into the cylinders and the thing shifts like a new transmission. With the engine shut off and flipping the switches, it shift like "right now". I did take it out for a spin and upshifted, and downshifted through all the gears without a miss. Long country roads are good for this. Anyway I do think all is as it should be now. I didn't get a chance to go for a cruise with a trailer today as I'd hoped. Maybe tomorrow or the beginning of next week. Got some parts research to do also. Thanks, Rob

Well, I have to postpone the trip. I had the state police out to the shop today to give me a complementary DOT inspection of the truck. It will not pass as the front brake shoes need to be at least 1/4" lining thickness and mine are just under 3/16ths. They are shot. The drums need replaced also so I'm in preparation to be rather sore over the next few days as I round up new parts. Because of this I did open up a bid opportunity on uship.com for someone to haul this and I do have a piece of return freight to go back to Pennsylvania if someone is interested. You would need a long stepdeck as the sawmill equipment is about 10' tall and 40' long. It is 8 feet wide. The trailer can be loaded and unloaded on another trailer at both ends easily. I knew the rears were getting thin as there are no backing plates on the axles. The fronts I really couldn't see that good but the cop had a special little gauge that easily read them when stuck through the slot of the backing plates of the steer axle. Real nice people when they are not enforcing something. Amazing how helpful they can be sometimes. We spent some time going over logging, DOT numbers and their relationships etc., and what they look for in roadside checks besides axle and gross weights. Rob

You bumped your head on the gurney in the ambulance cause you were on the bottom? How kinky. Did the lack of padding leave you with a backache too?? Regardless, the ole noggin looks sore. Rob

Sorry if I appear "biased" Mark, but I REALLY like that 1693TA Under the hood!! Rob

a little more information on the sticking brake lamps: If I plug shop air into the fitting I've plumbed into the truck, it charges only the primary side, (green needle). This allows me to release the brakes and move the truck as soon as it fires. With shop supplied air and the secondary side empty of air, I can mash the brake pedal and let up with the lamps going off immediately. I've done this many times with the same result. However, if I barely pull the trolley valve, the lamps come on a delay extinguishing after about 15-20 seconds. After they go off I've verified the same thing happens again. After they go off again, I mash the brake pedal and the come on and go off as I release the pedal. Now starting the engine, I let the pressure build in the secondary side and the brake lamps stick on with the brake pedal, or the trolley valve. Something screwy here, just ain't figgered it out yet. Rob

I really wouldn't mind spraying the truck for you but it certainly appears you are doing a fine job with your own talent/ability. A long way to drive but that Canadian Back Bacon sure sounds good. I'm afraid if I didn't haul at least a ton back with me, "Momma" may really put the hurts to me. Is that V8 engine original to the truck? I thought an RW713 would have an inline Mack engine? Keep it up as it's progress certainly looks good!! Rob

one inch, 36 spline count was very common for many years. Rob

Looks really good going so far!! You seem to be willing to do the job right which always grabs my interest in a project. Seems like I've been there once or twice myself........ How'd the frame repair go? Never heard anything other than you were going to split the outer to eliminate the rust spread. I'm assuming you got it welded back together alright? Rob

Sorry but I have no experience with an E7 series of engine at all. Oil in the radiator could be a blown head gasket internally. The engine oil pressure is much higher than the cooling system pressure. Also a cracked liner, (if wet sleeve engine) or a bad liner seal could cause the same thing. A bad turbocharger coolant seal could also be suspect. Apologies as I can't be more specific. Rob

They can still be purchased from Mack and are not terribly expensive. I've only seen one aftermarket supplier with them and they were not the best quality of workmanship. Rob